---> Is it ok/safe to drive my crx in the hills with the LCA bushing all messed up?

Background:
When I did my engine swap, I couldn't get the lower control arm bushing to pop free.
I tried all the 'safe' methods, and finally gave in and tried a pickle fork.
Well, it still didn't come out and the rubber and grease is all mangled now.
Local shop wants $220 to swap in new bushing -ouch
I can also remove knuckle assembly and have machine shop press it out ($50)
But I don't think I'll have time to do this until after this weekend, and I really wanted to drive my crx up in the hills.

 

Don't sweat it for just a weekend.

Off to the hills with you

 

Bushing or balljoint?

 

Sigh, .... sorry guys. I meant BALLJOINT
It's the rubber and grease section at the bottom of the balljoint that's damaged.

(that's what I get for trying to do 3 things at once)
Thx Sean

 

the balljoint is going to be fine if all you used is a pickle fork. youll be fine as long as the cotter pin and castle nut is still secured. its just not going to ever get any better once the boot is torn.

i never use the pickle fork anymore. just use the hammer to whack the end of the knuckle to separate the balljoint. but i think i remember you having problems with this earlier. i guess you never got it fixed huh...

you dont need a machine press to replace the balljoint however. just a hammer.

i would have offer to separate the balljoint myself if i was there for CRXPO...

 

Yeah, I remember you posting a response to my older thread, and saying you had the same problems. Thanks for the info for this one.
Good, I still have the castle nut and cotter pin on there, (nut is torqued to spec too)

So question....how do I get the old balljoint out using a hammer?
I tried that on the passenger side one (balljoint also wouldn't come out despite all methods) and all it did was mashed the threads!

First thing I tried was the "nice" method
ie screw on the castle nut, then tape a socket to the bottom of this nut, then hammer away at the socket (thereby preserving the threads, etc).
Thing still wouldn't come out
So I took off the socket and castle nut and tried hitting the threaded part (hitting it upwards)
It also didn't work (of course) but it suuure felt good taking out my agression on that sucker and seeing it get all mashed up, haha!
So I ended up removing the whole knuckle/assembly and took it to the machine shop.

If you know of a trick where I can swap out these balljoints myself, let me know!
(I've already tried the special separator tool, the pickle fork, the 'hammer the side of the LCA' method, the propane torch method, PB Blaster, etc etc.

Thanks

 

well, you did it the two absolutely worst ways possible! dont worry, ive done that too....


what i mean by striking it with a hammer is striking the SIDE of the balljoint. if you look at the knuckle, near the balljoint theres a some extra meat like a nipple on each side. its also there on the tie rod end area. just strike that area with a 3lb hammer. do NOT hit the threads. just hit sideways. try both sides of the balljoint. i say keep the nut of to protect the threads in case of an errant strike.

it helps to pull up on the knuckle, or have some one else while hitting.

basically, its just a molecular bond that is holding that balljoint in place. its the tapered seat, it WANTS to come out. you just need to shake loose those molecular bonds with some good vibrations of a solid impact, and it pops off. sometimes its easy, sometimes its bitchin impossible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, you did it the two absolutely worst ways possible! dont worry, ive done that too....
what i mean by striking it with a hammer is striking the SIDE of the balljoint. if you look at the knuckle, near the balljoint theres a some extra meat like a nipple on each side. its also there on the tie rod end area. just strike that area with a 3lb hammer. do NOT hit the threads. just hit sideways. try both sides of the balljoint. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry Tyson, I guess I wasn't too clear.
The very first method I tried (on both the driver and passenger side balljoints) was indeed this same method you decribed. Dan Ford told me over the phone where this location on the LCA was, and to just hit it sideways as you describe. After trying this for an hour, my dad came by for a visit and I had him try it as well (he's got really strong arms). He couldn't knock it loose either.
Then I asked Dan to swing by, and HE tried it too. NO LUCK!

At that point, I gave in and used the alternate (ie less-desirable) methods such as pickle fork, propane, etc. I did them in the order of least damaging first.

I guess I am just 'lucky' in that both sides refused to pop out!

So, unless you know of another secret method (I wish!?) then I guess I'll be removing the whole knuckle and having the machine shop press it out, and pop the new one in.

Thanks

 

well... the "secret" is not to over torque the castle nut when you put it back on.

the problem with that is that it only helps the NEXT time... i do specifically remember when i found my balljoints impossible to come out, i had torqued them way too much. so dont even torque them beyond a good hand tight and enough to get to the next cotter pin opening thru the castle nut.

if you remember, i was forced to saw off and drill out my old balljoint before. so dont think youre the only one who has gone through this... i used every method then as well. i even used a mechanical press under very considerable amounts of pressure and it still didnt come off. ive learned my lesson...