DIY RPM Activator
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From: Houston and Minneapolis, TX/MN, USA
I am trying to save money and on my 90 CRX Si with mini-me done to it. I have yet to get the vtec to work. I want to know if there is some way to get it to activate through a cheap relay or something from radioshack. I am aware there are some from Summit Racing and stuff like that for relatively cheap ($40) but I want even cheaper.
-shane
-shane
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Houston and Minneapolis, TX/MN, USA
I am just wondering for this weekend only. After that I want to get my pm6 programmed for it. Not sure of the advantages and etc. I just know I dont' have to switch to obd1
I think I am going to do the same thing, I want vtec while I save for the obd1 conversion. Problem is, if you chip the pm6 I think you loose the ability to have AC.
I really wish people would stop encouraging this type of behavior LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really wish people would stop encouraging this type of behavior LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've heard of your work from friends and I really like the results. I know when I'm ready to go obd1 I'll look for you, but bare with us, we are not all made of money like you are. After all, I would imagine with all these happy customers youd be making good bank. It just takes us a little more time, than others, to get where whe want to be but we'll get there.
I've heard of your work from friends and I really like the results. I know when I'm ready to go obd1 I'll look for you, but bare with us, we are not all made of money like you are. After all, I would imagine with all these happy customers youd be making good bank. It just takes us a little more time, than others, to get where whe want to be but we'll get there.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Houston and Minneapolis, TX/MN, USA
haha I know but like I said I just want to get it working for this weekend (h-t meet) and then after that I plan on getting either pm6 chipped or go obd1.
-shane
-shane
OK for 1 dont even bother with the RPM activated switch for gods sake....it will do nothing for you.
You might see a minimal of 1 hp gain from this.
Just activating the Vtec solenoid without the ECU mapping is just stupid, Doing it this way you really arent even using vtec to full potential.
You need to wait and save the money ($40 your halfway to the OBD1 harness...lol)
And just get the harnes.
Without the ECU being programmed for Vtec mapping, you will see no benefit, because when Vtec engages, the fuel and timing maps change...Giving more fuel and advanced timing.
If you spend $40 bucks, for that RPM act. module......well let me put it this way...Ive seen apples with more common sense than that.
You might see a minimal of 1 hp gain from this.
Just activating the Vtec solenoid without the ECU mapping is just stupid, Doing it this way you really arent even using vtec to full potential.
You need to wait and save the money ($40 your halfway to the OBD1 harness...lol)
And just get the harnes.
Without the ECU being programmed for Vtec mapping, you will see no benefit, because when Vtec engages, the fuel and timing maps change...Giving more fuel and advanced timing.
If you spend $40 bucks, for that RPM act. module......well let me put it this way...Ive seen apples with more common sense than that.
just get it chipped here are a couple websites
http://www.kenji211.com/home.htm
http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~mdkeena/ecu/
http://www.kenji211.com/home.htm
http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~mdkeena/ecu/
I managed to get my pm6 working with TE and 1wire vtec... it required a different hex change to the code than listed on the pgmfi.org site. I added the info to the 1wire vtec post on there.
I'm running a d16z6 with obd0 alternator, 450dsm injectors... d16a6 distributor (one leg needed to be cut and it runs off 2 bolts... 0 leaks/issues0) and with vtec working... its completely like a stocker.
d16y8 head will run off the p28 just like a z6 would.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboLSef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had my mini me activated by a switch for a long while... I just changed it to obd1 this last friday with the p28, It works <U>sooo much</U> better now... just my input </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats mostly likely because you were running it off the stock d16a6(pm6) ecu? The ignition and fuel were way off. If you chipped and ran Turboedit... u can splice maps and it woulda worked just like the p28... without the expense.
I'm running a d16z6 with obd0 alternator, 450dsm injectors... d16a6 distributor (one leg needed to be cut and it runs off 2 bolts... 0 leaks/issues0) and with vtec working... its completely like a stocker.
d16y8 head will run off the p28 just like a z6 would.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboLSef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had my mini me activated by a switch for a long while... I just changed it to obd1 this last friday with the p28, It works <U>sooo much</U> better now... just my input </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats mostly likely because you were running it off the stock d16a6(pm6) ecu? The ignition and fuel were way off. If you chipped and ran Turboedit... u can splice maps and it woulda worked just like the p28... without the expense.
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If so will there be any advantages to still go OBD1?

