golden eagle head studs???
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I am, to the 7 lb*ft they specify. It's sort of the reason I got the GE ones over ARP, the GE's have the "dog nose" to locate the stud.
Having said that, I know Rocket doesn't ask questions for the fun of it. What do you know that we don't?
Having said that, I know Rocket doesn't ask questions for the fun of it. What do you know that we don't?
I thought about it for quite a while before purchasing them.
My ASSumption was that the holes drilled in the block for the head bolts are of a somewhat uniform depth, as it is Honda after all, not Ford... This would serve to locate all the threads equally in all the holes. Better than guessing...
My ASSumption was that the holes drilled in the block for the head bolts are of a somewhat uniform depth, as it is Honda after all, not Ford... This would serve to locate all the threads equally in all the holes. Better than guessing...
We used to use the AEBS studs bottomed out and we fucked up the threads in our block. We've since switch back to ARP not bottomed out and things are coo, even with "decent" power levels.
Well power certainly isn't a concern for me, it was a matter of reusability for about the same price as bolts. What problems with the threads did you have, pulling out? My thought was 7 lb*ft wasn't enough to cause trouble, especially since there's no more twisting those threads as you tighten.
7lbs + more twisting (upon torquing) against the bottom. Something is gonna give right? Anybody crack a block yet?
Not trying to be hard on you Disco. Just being true to performance.
Not trying to be hard on you Disco. Just being true to performance.
It's DOCTOR disco! I didn't spend 7 years in disco medical school to be called disco...
I can't recall the axial load of 7 lb*ft of torque on those bolts off the top of my head, but it doesn't strike me as something to crack the block. Also, I figured most of that force will be removed once the studs are tightened, due to the strain of the threads and studs.
No hard feelings at all, it's called learning.
I can't recall the axial load of 7 lb*ft of torque on those bolts off the top of my head, but it doesn't strike me as something to crack the block. Also, I figured most of that force will be removed once the studs are tightened, due to the strain of the threads and studs.
No hard feelings at all, it's called learning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7lbs + more twisting (upon torquing) against the bottom. Something is gonna give right? Anybody crack a block yet?
Not trying to be hard on you Disco. Just being true to performance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing will give we make lots of power on these head studs no problems and no complaints from customers
Not trying to be hard on you Disco. Just being true to performance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>nothing will give we make lots of power on these head studs no problems and no complaints from customers
any new testimonies? i was eyeing arp's until i found ge hs.
i am wondering if anyone has had block distortion using arp's? this is a statement golden eagle makes:
"Golden Eagle head studs use the factory torque specs and sequence for much less block distrortion. ARP uses a torque spec that is WAY beyond the factory spec. We have used ARP many times and found them to distort the block and main tunnel significantly!"
i am wondering if anyone has had block distortion using arp's? this is a statement golden eagle makes:
"Golden Eagle head studs use the factory torque specs and sequence for much less block distrortion. ARP uses a torque spec that is WAY beyond the factory spec. We have used ARP many times and found them to distort the block and main tunnel significantly!"
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buff1110
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Nov 30, 2007 12:10 PM




