I'm trying to replace my rear pads and i used a c-clamp to push the piston back in and it wont move. I've been doing a search and now i dont know if their supposed to be pushed back in or screwed in. HELP!

*Update*
I got the pads on and screwed the pistons back, but when i put the rear passenger side on the rotor was hard to turn, like the brakes were being applied. I know i pushed the piston all the way back. I didnt get the rotors turned cause 2 places i asked didnt do them, plus i couldnt chance ruining my rotors since i have to drive my car everyday for doing almost 50miles a day and the indicator was grinding. But i will redo my brakes probably next month or so.And it looked like i had the notch go into the grooves the right way in the piston, so when i was driving it the rear started to smoke when i came to stops. well i drove it for about an hour and on the highway and when i came back it stopped smoking.

So what would cause the wheel to be stiff in moving and the brakes to smoke?


Modified by DrewQ1 at 11:50 PM 7/10/2005


Modified by DrewQ1 at 12:06 AM 7/11/2005

 

I believe they were supposed to be slowly screwed back instead of just forcing them into place

 

yeah get a big flat head screw driver and screw it in instead of useing a c clamp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gen2Gen3teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe they were supposed to be slowly screwed back instead of just forcing them into place</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to this guy, he is 100% right, take thinner pliers put em between the cross thing on the piston and slowly turn back , make sure to keep the dust boot seal seated the whole time don't let it twist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solareclipseauto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah get a big flat head screw driver and screw it in instead of useing a c clamp</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_Black_Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Listen to this guy, he is 100% right, take thinner pliers put em between the cross thing on the piston and slowly turn back , make sure to keep the dust boot seal seated the whole time don't let it twist. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i believe youre suppose to turn it clockwise...

 

its clockwise. Also you can buy the tool to screw the caliper back in. It fits on the end of a 3/8 ratchet or extension. It is a cube and has different caliper patterns on each side.

I also used a prybar before, that worked really well too.

 

finished install, now they were smoking and the wheel was stiff, but then stopped smoking after driving on the highway for about an hour.

 

I have the same problem like you but mine was on the Front left Brake. What I did is install four new rotors and brake pads. Works fine now no sweeaking or flamming hot rotor that cause smokes. When you pushing back the brake piston make sure to open the brake Resiovor (the place you fill brake fluid) or you will have to open the bleeder hole but I hate that because you have to bleeds the brake later. Bleeding the brake is a B*tch, I replace two of the rear Brake caliper and have to bleed that sh*t for 45mins. Good luck, How far are your progress.

 

I never did open the resevoir or bleed the brakes.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda1982 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same problem like you but mine was on the Front left Brake. What I did is install four new rotors and brake pads. Works fine now no sweeaking or flamming hot rotor that cause smokes. When you pushing back the brake piston make sure to open the brake Resiovor (the place you fill brake fluid) or you will have to open the bleeder hole but I hate that because you have to bleeds the brake later. Bleeding the brake is a B*tch, I replace two of the rear Brake caliper and have to bleed that sh*t for 45mins. Good luck, How far are your progress.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Bleeding the brakes is easy to do yourself. You just have to get the little kit from Autozone or wherever. To the original poster, are your brakes really hot when you get done driving? It sounds like you have a stuck caliper on your rear brake. That would cause the smoking and the hard to move tire. You might need to get a caliper rebuild kit. or a whole new caliper? Plus you should get new rotors as soon as possible. Or get yours turned. new ones from autozone are like 17 bucks each. cheap. I have brembos on the front and autozone rotors on the rear. Good luck with yours though.
Micha

 

well it stopped smokomg. so i'm hoping maybe it worked out, i havent jackup the car to see if the whell is stiff. And if i did try to bleed the brakes it would have to wait till next weekend since i dont have time to do it during the week and i get off of work at night.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blu99teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bleeding the brakes is easy to do yourself. You just have to get the little kit from Autozone or wherever. To the original poster, are your brakes really hot when you get done driving? It sounds like you have a stuck caliper on your rear brake. That would cause the smoking and the hard to move tire. You might need to get a caliper rebuild kit. or a whole new caliper? Plus you should get new rotors as soon as possible. Or get yours turned. new ones from autozone are like 17 bucks each. cheap. I have brembos on the front and autozone rotors on the rear. Good luck with yours though.
Micha</TD></TR></TABLE>