I really need to adjust my valves for my gsr motor but i dont know the gap could someone tell me where i might find it?

 

Intake: 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007in)
Exhaust: 0.17-0.21mm(0.007-0.008in)
You should invest in a helms manual, PRICELESS!
when doing your valves, I suggest doing them tight.
for example, do the intake valves so the 0.006in fits between the cam and valve stem but the 0.007in wont, and so on and so forth.


Modified by fergy016 at 4:52 PM 7/10/2005

 

I hope you mean to say valve rocker arm pad and camshaft?

Also you can find this under your hood on that big service sticker. unless you have some sort of other hood or cf hood.

Also you adjust the jam nut when the feeler gauge is between the cam and the rocker arm pad, adjust until a slight drag is felt.

You dont just adjust them until you can fit the gauge between..

Also what are you using to do your valve adjustment? Do you have the tool from snap-on? or have you bent your own wrench?

 

darn triple post.

 

darn post, didn't show up when I refreshed.

 

Yeah, rocker arm pad, my bad.
I personally use the snap-on tool. The socket wrench with the flat head screw driver inside.
I personally like my valves to be adjusted on the tight side, so I use this method: I use the smaller of the two feeler guages then check if I can fit the 1 that is just bigger and make sure it doesn't fit.

 

Im using a bent wrench, im cheap, but after i have adjusted them to spec it spuders and has no power at all so im going back through them and making sure i got them all right.

 

Were the symptoms there before you did your valve adjust??? Was the valve train less than 100 degrees F when you started???
You must always tighten adjuster set nut w/ feeler gauge still in between rocker and camshaft.
I use .oo6in Intake and .oo7in Exhaust for all VTEC engines... I know there are differant specs for the B18C1, etc. But, for me, it's just easier.

Absubtle
PA

 

Yes the engin was cool and the problem was some how a few of the valves had went down to .004 on the intake side and a 2 of the exhuast went down to .006 so i went through all of them and corrected the probs and now its purrs like a kitten and no more noisey valves (my engine has 100,248 miles on it and the valves have never been adjusted before) runs alot better thanks for all the help and fast replies guys i really appreciate it!!!!!

 

it is amazing how much power you gain when doing a tune up.
oil/filters/plugs/wires/valve adj./

 

yeah i have a laptop dyno and before i did the valves it said i only had 196 hp now it says 212 to the wheels and 210 lbs torq

 

Sounds like valve lash adjustment..search valve lash.

 

how do you do a valve adjustment?

 

go buy a helms manual for your car. It will solve many mysteries is great detail. Well worth the $60 spent.

 

seems i counted my chickens before they hatched today my car has no power at all and its supposed to idle at 800 rpm but it idles at 550 give or take and skips and spuders and if you rev it a little it sounds fine but if you try to drive it, it just dies. any ideas?

 

also i have my valve lash at .006 for intake and .007 for ex. another question, are both the normal and vtec valves gaped to the same gap? and where is the best place for the cam lobes to be when adjusting the lash?


Modified by b18c-ivic_gsR at 9:33 PM 7/11/2005

 

ok sorry for the bombing of post but i have changed my valve lash to .007 and .008 and it runs alot better i can accually drive it now and it idles in between 750 and 800 but it still has a slight skip to it but the skip sounds like an ignition skip but i checked everything and its fine i guess it has come down to the dreaded fact of my diy skills are no match for the honda valve train so i guess i will have to take it to a PRO and let them charge me out the butt for something probably really simple that im overlooking!!

 

are you sure about that .....there is no way you have 212hp with 210 torque

 

i was sketchy about that myself, i dont think i have the weight of my car right on the dyno, im using the stock weight spec and i think im going to have to recalculate my dyno gear. I dont really know how acurate that thing is because the hp and tq lines look like a 2 yr old went crazy with a red and blue marker very zig zag like.

 

ok now my cel came on and i checked it and it say s cylinders 2,3,4 misfire detected what would so that?

 

are you running a stock gsr engine? obd2 I am guessing?
Start by checking your valves since that is the latest thing that has changed.
check your spark plugs.

what have you changed/done lately on your engine set-up?

 

you said it best yourself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c-ivic_gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my diy skills are no match for the honda valve train so i guess i will have to take it to a PRO and let them charge me out the butt for something probably really simple that im overlooking!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

My valves are all i have changed, all i have done to the engine is a dc sports header, 2.5 in ex, aem cold air intake, skunk2 adj. cam gears, and a vafc2, i unplugged the vafc checked the sprk plugs wire dist. cap rotor button and coil everything is fine. but earlier there was an odd ticking like sound coming from the distributor but couldnt find it before it stoped but even after it stoped the car kept skipping.

 

by unplugging you mean removed the apex'i harness from the cars wiring harness?
or
just unplugging it at the clip connector?
if the vafc2 harness is still wired to the car:
on the vafc2 wiring to the car, is the blue wire connected?
did you find the extra information about the blue wire on the website or addition to the installation manual?
did you install this yourself?

 

I love manuals... they solve every mystery..