Car: 94 Acura Integra RS

Set up:

b18b1 head
- Crower 403 cams w/duel crower springs (stock retainners) (soon to be 404's)
- Stock
- Stock mill/cc (resurfaced)
- Stock headgasket
- No Port and Polish
- Blox IM
- Stock TB (soon to be 65mm ITR)

b18b1 block (Compression: 210 in all four)
- ARP rod bolts
- Shot peened rods (factory stroke)
- CTR pistons (.50 over)
- Stock crank (factory stroke)
- ACL bearings (mains/rods)

Other stuff
- b&m FPR and fp gauge

This motor will be running off of a stock LS ECU but only temperaly. So untill then the car will not be tuned.

ECU will be getting chipped and ill be running either uberdata or crome

<U>Couple of questions:</U>

- Do i need to clay the motor?

- Vavle adjustment settings as far as clearances go, where do they need to be with the crower 403's?

- Am i going to be ok running factory cam gears during the break in period?

- Will i be fine running the stock ECU with factory settings during the break in period?

- Should the distributor be set retarted or advanced for the break in period?

- How many miles before my first oil change do you guys recommend? And also what kind of oil do you guys recommend for the break in. I was told nonsenthetic valvoline but im not sure about the weight.

- Do i NEED bigger injectors or will factory injectors be good enough for this kind of set up?

THANKS AGAIN, i really appreciate the help!! and the support!!


And if there's anything i left out or anything that i should be paying more attention to, please let me know.

Modified by HondaGuy02 at 7:04 PM 7/12/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 4:10 PM 7/23/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 4:18 PM 7/23/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 1:15 PM 8/10/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 2:39 PM 8/15/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 5:17 PM 8/25/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 6:35 PM 9/1/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 6:35 PM 9/1/2005


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 10:25 AM 9/3/2005

 

t

 

no need to clay imho those pistons have big reliefs and you have small valves (compared to what the pistons are designed for)

valve adj specs should be on your cam card with the cam (different than stock)

nothign wrong with factory cam gears, you just cant tune the cam timing

stock ecu will prolly run but not that great, mine thows all kinds of codes and wont idle but i have the 404's

set distributor to stock setting till its tuned then you can play with it on a dyno

you should do an oil change real soon after you break in use non detergent conventional oil

factory injectors are good for anything short of boost on your setup


in my opinion dont waste your money on a safc, you have a 95 RS so your ecu is obd1, socket it and run uberdata, it will be cheaper than a safc and a million times better for tuning. pgmfi.org for more info on that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no need to clay imho those pistons have big reliefs and you have small valves (compared to what the pistons are designed for)

valve adj specs should be on your cam card with the cam (different than stock)

nothign wrong with factory cam gears, you just cant tune the cam timing

stock ecu will prolly run but not that great, mine thows all kinds of codes and wont idle but i have the 404's

set distributor to stock setting till its tuned then you can play with it on a dyno

you should do an oil change real soon after you break in use non detergent conventional oil

factory injectors are good for anything short of boost on your setup


in my opinion dont waste your money on a safc, you have a 95 RS so your ecu is obd1, socket it and run uberdata, it will be cheaper than a safc and a million times better for tuning. pgmfi.org for more info on that

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the help!!!

 

i dont have the spec sheet, do you know what i should the valve adjustment at??

thanks agian

 

go to crowers web page, they have some of the older cam cards avalible online... mine was .006 and .008 i think (but i have different cams)

 

NA LS Build

 

tt

 

what else do you want to know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what else do you want to know?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have an aim screen name?, maybe i should just message you if i have a question

im sure ill have a few more considering the motors not even in the car yet.

 

im run n 403's the valves should be set to .006 int and .008 exh. i agree with jcushing, chip the ecu and run uberdata. safc's r not the greatest thing to tune a car with. and ur stock injectors r fine. im run n my car (crower 403, P30 pistons, stock injectors) with no problems. just get someone in ur area to chip ur ecu and if u want, i can set u up with a uberdata chip with a tuned map from my car since we have a similiar set up.

once u have the motor finished built, set the timing to stock settings (16*), make sure everythings run n good, then take it out for a spin. if it's driving good, then beat the **** out of it. take it up to like 7K rpms a couple of times to break the motor in. then come back in an do an oil change and u'll be good to go.

i highly recommend u get a FPR and a gauge before u start the car up. set the fuel pressure to 45 psi with the vacuum line off the FPR. this will make sure u have enough fuel when u wot the car. but make sure u get the car tuned shortly after this, or even better get the car on a dyno and break it in when u r tuning the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im run n 403's the valves should be set to .006 int and .008 exh.</TD></TR></TABLE>



I used to have 403's before I bought 404's and the valve lash was the same. In: .006"; Ex: .008 like Boosted K20 said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im run n 403's the valves should be set to .006 int and .008 exh. i agree with jcushing, chip the ecu and run uberdata. safc's r not the greatest thing to tune a car with. and ur stock injectors r fine. im run n my car (crower 403, P30 pistons, stock injectors) with no problems. just get someone in ur area to chip ur ecu and if u want, i can set u up with a uberdata chip with a tuned map from my car since we have a similiar set up.

once u have the motor finished built, set the timing to stock settings (16*), make sure everythings run n good, then take it out for a spin. if it's driving good, then beat the **** out of it. take it up to like 7K rpms a couple of times to break the motor in. then come back in an do an oil change and u'll be good to go.

i highly recommend u get a FPR and a gauge before u start the car up. set the fuel pressure to 45 psi with the vacuum line off the FPR. this will make sure u have enough fuel when u wot the car. but make sure u get the car tuned shortly after this, or even better get the car on a dyno and break it in when u r tuning the car</TD></TR></TABLE>

so stock injectors are fine, so no need for the RC 310's. I have a FPR and a fuel pressure gauge so im good there.

sounds like i need to put this thing together and put her in.

thanks for the help guys!!

would you happen to have a aim handle or a phone number you could pm me with? you sound like you might be a lot of help!

 

u can AIM me at VKoRnV83 or just hit me with an email at kgooman@gmail.com

 

I really don't mean to change the subject but its quick and then i'll shut up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no need to clay imho those pistons have big reliefs and you have small valves (compared to what the pistons are designed for)


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I remember hearing that all b series pistons have the same valve reliefs (understand i'm not contradicting you in any way). Is this true? I just wanted to verify with someone who apparently knows their ****. Thanks

 

Yes you should be fine with the stock 240cc injectors.

 

get the uberdata.. that **** rocks. nice choice on parts, too! good luck.

what kind of power are you guys making with 403 cams and p30 or pct pistons?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what kind of power are you guys making with 403 cams and p30 or pct pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see most guys pulling between 150whp - 160whp. I have seen an allmotor B20 that put down 183whp on 403's.

 

with crower 403's and P30's im lay n down 150whp.

 

sounds nice. i'm about to try some crane stage 2 cams in a b20 with 10.1:1 compression. should be nice, especially with a b16 transmission.

 

What is the grind/part # of the crane cams? From my experience bigger cams seem to work better for the B20 as opposed to the B18's.

I am just curious as to see what the Crane #16 and #18 for the B18/B20 put down.


Drop me an email Mike. I'll be glad to help out the guy who used to hook us up with parts back in the day!

hybrid_vtec@sbcglobal.net

 

thanks for the help guys!

just wondering, how long can i roll around with out the car tuned ? whats recommended as far as that goes... i know i should have it dyno tuned right away and im going to try to but will it be cool for a couple of months lets say... worst case scenario

 

not sure which ones they are.. my buddy bought a coupe with an LS motor in it, and these "crane" cams are supposedly in the motor. by the way the motor sounds, they are definitely a beefy cam. i don't know.. i'll let you know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not sure which ones they are.. my buddy bought a coupe with an LS motor in it, and these "crane" cams are supposedly in the motor. by the way the motor sounds, they are definitely a beefy cam. i don't know.. i'll let you know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are there any markings onthe cams? Check the ends where they meet the cam gears or teh distributor side. There should be a part number.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaGuy02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help guys!

just wondering, how long can i roll around with out the car tuned ? whats recommended as far as that goes... i know i should have it dyno tuned right away and im going to try to but will it be cool for a couple of months lets say... worst case scenario </TD></TR></TABLE>

Should be ok, just dont drive it too much. I usually put 200-300 miles on my engine before taking them to the dyno.

 

bump...

what kind of oil do you guys recommend after the break in oil....

and how long do i run the non detergent oil for ?


Modified by HondaGuy02 at 3:59 PM 7/17/2005