I am chaing the timing belt on my wifes integra ls, and I cannot get the crank pully pot off, I have an air copressor and even with that set to 110 psi I cannot get this sucker to break loose. I have had her sit in the car with the brakes on but that did not work either... any ideas?

Thanks!

 

In the past, I've left the car on the ground in gear with the E-brake on then used a few extensions and an extended breaker bar (3 foot jack handle for extra leverage). This normally works pretty well... if you have problems with the entire thing torquing at an odd angle b/c of the extensions off the socket you can put a jack stand under the breaker bar to keep it stable.

You should be able to get the nut off or break a couple of sockets trying

Christian

 

How do you get to the crank pully bolt with the Tire on? From the Top?

 

You need a bigger air gun. Some of them are just stuck on there.

 

should work on all b-series pulleys. but i still need a really big breaker
bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or get the crank pulley tool</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a Moroso brand part, about $70 from summit racing. I'd see if you could talk a shop with a big **** air gun to do you a favor for a few bucks rather than shelling out $70 for a tool that you'll use once.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need a bigger air gun. Some of them are just stuck on there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I borrowed a big *** 3/4" gun at work when in a similar situation, and that got the bolt loose instantly.

 

I have used a breaker bar with a 4 foot pole that was used to mount an old TV antenna and then I jump up and down on it till it broke loose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, I borrowed a big *** 3/4" gun at work when in a similar situation, and that got the bolt loose instantly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Borrowing one from the THSCC Club President Tonight ! (Thanks Scott)

The Threads aren't reversed on the crank pully bolt are they?

 

No, normal threads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, normal threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shows what I know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, normal threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep.

David - expect to fight with this one - your integra wasnt exactly garaged and loved

 

I had a compressor that shut off at 110 psi, and my crank pulley would not come off.

It was not until I adjusted the compressor to pump up to 140psi that I was able to blast off that bolt with the air gun.


Look for the box that controls the compressor. Inside there should be a spring with a screw that adjusts the shut-off PSI.

Just crank it up to shut off at 140-150 psi (or whatever the max pressure capacity of your tank is)

 

u like to die?

a ral smart guy zip-tied the bleed-off valves on a shop air compressor, i dunno what pise it blew it, but the head, the piston, and the rod were SHEARED from the block.

rod broke, headbolts held in the block, so part of the block ripped off with the head.

in other words, adjusting a steel tank filled with air, past the capacity at which it was designed to hold, is just a *little* dangerous.

 

I had to use an impact that we use on buses to get my last one off, I think the drive was 3/4". Us crx guys dont have the chance to use a tool to hold the pulley

 

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html

 

I still have the bleed off valve on my compressor,
it's a 150 psi, so When my tank hits that PSI it openes up..
I just set the regulator to shut off just before the bleedoff hits

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you get to the crank pully bolt with the Tire on? From the Top?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, with the tire on. Turn the wheel all the way to the left so the front of the tire opens up some room between it and the fender. It's tight but there's enough room to get the socket and a long extension in there... when you're done getting everything situated, the car will be on the ground with the wheel turned, a long extension with the breaker bar on the end, a jack under where the extension and breaker bar meet, and a long piece of pipe or long jack handle slid over the breaker bar handle so you've got some extra leverage.

With this setup, you can exert a tremendous amount of force on the bolt... it was enough that I've broken sockets and snapped extensions in an effort to get the bolt off...

Christian

 

Yeah I tried that too..
I just rolled the car and turned the crank around..


it really needs the hard hitting impact driver at 140+ psi.

it will work

 

No need for crazy pressures if you have a big enough impact driver, 3/4" ones have a much higher torque rating than the more normal 1/2" ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I tried that too..
I just rolled the car and turned the crank around..


it really needs the hard hitting impact driver at 140+ psi.

it will work</TD></TR></TABLE>
Car won't roll if the parking brake is on or if you're using wheel chocks

Christian, who uses an impact wrench now but remembers being poor without the right toolz...

 

I'm with RJ on this one. All you really need is a decent 1/2" gun. My old IR 231 wouldn't do it.

On my nieces '93 coupe that had 150k on it, on jackstands, my IR 2135 blasted it off.

 

I'm with RJ on this one. All you really need is a decent 1/2" gun. My old IR 231 wouldn't do it.

On my nieces '93 coupe that had 150k on it, on jackstands, my IR 2135 blasted it off. It is also pretty important to make sure the gun is well lubed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Car won't roll if the parking brake is on or if you're using wheel chocks

Christian, who uses an impact wrench now but remembers being poor without the right toolz...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Serisouly,
I did that too..

it was on so damn tight that just rolled the car or skidded it across the conrete. I have tire marks to prove it

as for a 3/4" impact... who wants to buy a big gun and sockets to take off 1 stubborn Nut, when all you need is a decent 1/2".

For the price of one 1/2" gun and sockets and one 3/4" gun and sockets, you can get a hard hitting 1/2", a set of deep sockets, short sockets and probably swivel sockets too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm with RJ on this one. All you really need is a decent 1/2" gun. My old IR 231 wouldn't do it.

On my nieces '93 coupe that had 150k on it, on jackstands, my IR 2135 blasted it off. It is also pretty important to make sure the gun is well lubed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Borrowed a Firends Snap ON 1/2 inch drive gun and the bolt came right off.... Just comfimed what I knew... the one that came with the air compressor is a pos.