Worst Nightmare!!! pics inside
Now the first thing i want to explain to you guys is that i made the biggest mistake off my life in buying a car (when i had very little experienc) that was already built.
Okay, so after driving this car for about 4 months we biggin to notice white smoke coming heavily from the exhaust, shortly after i notice that v-tec wont ingage until 8000k rpms. At that point i new something was wrong, so i took the car to Full Function Tech
, who have been really helpful for me since the problem started, and they did a leakdown test. Here are the results:
Cylinder #4 - 30%leak Appeared to be rings
Cylinder #3 - 3%leak
Cylinder #2 - 98%leak Intake valves
Cylinder #1 - 10%leak
So i decided to pull the head because we knew that something was obviously wrong.
Here are the pics:
valve cover off:

head off:

Cylinder #4

Cylinder #4 Piston

As you can see cylinder #4 valves look different(burninige very rich maybe?)

Close up of #4 valves

Close up of #3 valves

I was mainly wondering if you can determine from the pic if i will need to go overbore or just hone the cyldinder walls?
And if i will need new valves?
So ill take any input and suggestions and advice you guys have!!!
Okay, so after driving this car for about 4 months we biggin to notice white smoke coming heavily from the exhaust, shortly after i notice that v-tec wont ingage until 8000k rpms. At that point i new something was wrong, so i took the car to Full Function Tech
, who have been really helpful for me since the problem started, and they did a leakdown test. Here are the results:Cylinder #4 - 30%leak Appeared to be rings
Cylinder #3 - 3%leak
Cylinder #2 - 98%leak Intake valves
Cylinder #1 - 10%leak
So i decided to pull the head because we knew that something was obviously wrong.
Here are the pics:
valve cover off:

head off:

Cylinder #4

Cylinder #4 Piston

As you can see cylinder #4 valves look different(burninige very rich maybe?)

Close up of #4 valves

Close up of #3 valves

I was mainly wondering if you can determine from the pic if i will need to go overbore or just hone the cyldinder walls?
And if i will need new valves?
So ill take any input and suggestions and advice you guys have!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 510gsrhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was mainly wondering if you can determine from the pic if i will need to go overbore or just hone the cyldinder walls?
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you'll have to do measurements of that cylinder before anyone can tell u anything exact, but i think that looks kinda deep so ur probably gonna need an overbore.
I was mainly wondering if you can determine from the pic if i will need to go overbore or just hone the cyldinder walls?
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you'll have to do measurements of that cylinder before anyone can tell u anything exact, but i think that looks kinda deep so ur probably gonna need an overbore.
In the pic it looks bad but when i rub it with my finger i can hardly feel it at all, but i dont know much so a little to me could really be a lot.
if you can feel it with your finger, then you probably have some machining to do. bottom ends are pretty serious when it comes to tolerances; thousandths of an inch make differences.
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i mean it looks pretty bad but if it doesnt feel bad, u might not need to. Its gonna need atleast a hone, so id say take it to a machine shop and they will measure it out and tell you what u need to do, like how far u need to bore it out. Dont just go guessing a number w/o knowing what it needs. It looks like you're gonna need a new piston anyways.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 510gsrhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because i was already planning on bottom end build(rods rings and pistons) do you think it would be worth it to just do a .5 overbore annd continue with my turbo build?</TD></TR></TABLE>
10.6:1 is too high for a good turbo compression. ur going to lower it to like 9. so, if ur going to do the bottom end for boost, ur going to need sleeves, forged pistons, and rods.
10.6:1 is too high for a good turbo compression. ur going to lower it to like 9. so, if ur going to do the bottom end for boost, ur going to need sleeves, forged pistons, and rods.
Looks like i might send it to Rs for sleeving, and some lower comp pistons rods new oem main bearings, and throw on a new timting belt, oil pump, and all new gaskets. Otherwise i might just get a new block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 510gsrhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Otherwise i might just get a new block.
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Thats a total waste of money. Theres nothing there that cant be repaired to perfect condition again.
My C1 looked way worse than your with 197k on it and its fixed perfectly
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Thats a total waste of money. Theres nothing there that cant be repaired to perfect condition again.
My C1 looked way worse than your with 197k on it and its fixed perfectly
if yer planning on doing a street car just make the compression 10:1 .. a friend of myne did that and he was more than happy.. It spools turbo's quick and makes for some great street power. And don't even chance it with the hone.. just to a bore on that block or grab another block alltogether. If you've got the cash go with a nice sleeve like golden eagle.
If im going to be spendint this much money on the car and making it into a project than no its not only gonna be a street car. I would like to make it a daily driven/track car, if thats possible.
So then what do you think of RS Machines dion the sleeves and assembling bottom end build.
So then what do you think of RS Machines dion the sleeves and assembling bottom end build.
You might need a resleeve since that chip could have compromised the cylinder wall's integrity. It looks pretty deep. Tell the machine shop to check for other cracks in that cylinder. Still, Cylinder 4 is fucked up.
If I were you, I'd just get new sleeves since it will be just about as cheap in the end as honing or reboring, plus you get peace of mind.
I'd also get new valves since you said they were leaking. All the **** happening to your engine could have deformed. TI valves are better for high revving motors too.
If I were you, I'd just get new sleeves since it will be just about as cheap in the end as honing or reboring, plus you get peace of mind.
I'd also get new valves since you said they were leaking. All the **** happening to your engine could have deformed. TI valves are better for high revving motors too.



