I have a 95 Prelude SR-V (VTEC).
Initial Symptoms: I had to pump the clutch to get it to operate, clutch studder.

I replaced the master cylinder. I had trouble bleeding the clutch. Today I finialy got it bleed well. The clutch felt fine for about 2 min while I let the car warm up, and I had to manuver out of the garage with a car behind me. Then I drove around the block, and decided there was some trouble, but not bad. So I decided to drive it more. It got alot worse in the next couple of min.

Current Symptoms: The clutch is hit and miss. It will seem fine, then sometimes it will kinda just not work. It seems like the clutch is pushed in half way. So I just release the clutch and press again and it seems fine. Sometimes there is little clutch studder, and others it will seem really bad. I let it idle in neutral, pressed the clutch and I couldn't get it into gear. So I turn off the car put it in gear and start. Works ok bad studder, and I drove it home. I turn off the car and start it 2 min later. The clutch was 3x harder to press. I start the car, and it wouldn't go into gear. So I turn off the car again put it in gear and start, and the clutch is easy to press again. So I just parked it.

Warped clutch or pressure plate or something? Throwout bearing? Sticky clutch? I've never messed w/ a clutch so I'm pretty clueless.

Thanks
matt

 

How old is the clutch?

If the clutch pedal is 3x as hard to push in, that leads me to believe it has something to do with the clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old is the clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I was wondering....

 

Stock?

Not sure I've had it for a year from 130,000mi to 140,000mi. I have the recepts from 97' (25,000mi).

matt

 

Should I get an OEM Clutch or aftermarket if that is the problem?

thanks

 

Sounds like what I just had happen on my car. My problem was that one of the springs in the center of the clutch disc had broken free. the spring then drags inside the area between clutch disc and flywheel, and occasionally would pop back in spot and the clutch would seem better. I also replaced both master and slave cylinders before figuring this out. I went with the stock replacement Exedy clutch, can be bought off of Ebay or direct from many places, I used Clutchcityonline. They had great customer service and a good price with shipping in my opinion. Are you going to do the job yourself or have a shop do it?

 

Well I was going to have Honda do it, because the only mechanic that I trust dosn't want to work on it.

Is that something that isn't all that difficult?

Should I get an aftermarket clutch or an OEM replacement? The car will remain mostly stock, no serious tuning.

Thanks, and sorry for taking so long to respond.

matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...
Is that something that isn't all that difficult?

Should I get an aftermarket clutch or an OEM replacement? The car will remain mostly stock, no serious tuning.
...
matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's fairly difficult to replace if you've never done it before. If you're not planning on doing any serious mods, an OEM replacement should do just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like what I just had happen on my car. My problem was that one of the springs in the center of the clutch disc had broken free. the spring then drags inside the area between clutch disc and flywheel, and occasionally would pop back in spot and the clutch would seem better. I also replaced both master and slave cylinders before figuring this out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda Shop said the same thing.

I'm having Jack Ellena Honda do it .
$1050 1yr parts/labor

The aftermarket looks good, but I think that 140,000mi is pretty good so I'm going to stay w/ the stock, plus I get a warrenty.

 

$1k sounds way steep. most shopw charge about $300 for a clutch job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm having Jack Ellena Honda do it for $1050 1yr parts/lab</TD></TR></TABLE> HOLY ****!!! YOU ARE GETTING BURNED IN THICK FLAMES GO TO A NICE SHOP IT WILL BE ABOUT $700 LESS THAN DEALERSHIP!!!

 

well funny thing is that 300 will just about cover the parts... humm.....

 

labor should be $250-$600 (at most)

 

an exedy oem replacement clutch will run you about $90 shipped. and thats with a PP, cause I just bought one like 4 months ago. if you need a new flywheel, you can get one from a yard for like $40. i dont see how parts are going to cost $300 unless you are getting an aftermarket clutch and PP.

 

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...ERTER


Includes flywheel resurfacing and a warrenty. I'll look at the invoice and try and negotiate if there is something out of place. One thing, the car is Canadian, and rusted pretty bad so I would rather take it there so if they twist off a bolt or something then they cover it(or they should).

 

yea, you are getting killed by oem honda parts. $1k is about right for parts and labor, but defintely not worth it. you will get the exact same results from having a shop resurface your flywheel and installing an oem exedy clutch and PP for 1/3 the price of what you are paying for honda oem parts and install.