ok, here is a list of things I already know i will need to do. please let me know if something is wrong or I missed anything

replace header/downpipe with v-tec pieces
(if i ever replace cat-back I will need v-tec cat and cat back system.. correct?)

switch manual tensioner from my h23 to h22

wire v-tec

replace water pump (is it definatly needed?)

plugs/wires

wire external distributer (any writeups?)

timing belt replacement

all other pulleys replaced


if anything I listed doesn't definatly need to be done. let me know. If i can get away with running old pullies for a week let me know.

 

the dizzy doesnt have to be changed to externall.. you can use the JDM internal just as easily.. personal preff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB4vTak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the dizzy doesnt have to be changed to externall.. you can use the JDM internal just as easily.. personal preff. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Explain how to use an internal dizzy as easily as an external coil dizzy?

 

wire the knock sensor and check the form for the wiring for the distributor. valve cover seal change the auto tensioner if you can get one i think you have to special order it. the vtec solinoid gasket ?manual or auto?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightops &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wire the knock sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

H23 already has a knock sensor... Therefor the wiring is obviously there...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ok, here is a list of things I already know i will need to do. please let me know if something is wrong or I missed anything

replace header/downpipe with v-tec pieces
(if i ever replace cat-back I will need v-tec cat and cat back system.. correct?)</TD></TR></TABLE>
MUST
yes, that is correct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
switch manual tensioner from my h23 to h22
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DON'T HAVE TO
You can, or you can stick with the auto-tensioner. If you stick with the auto, I would get a new one.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wire v-tec
</TD></TR></TABLE>
MUST
Yep, you'll need three wires.
Two go to the Vtec solenoid (one from the ECU, one for ground) Most likey your car is already wired for it back to the ECU (93's and up). The plug is located on the passenger side near the shock mount.
Third wire is for the oil pressure switch (used for VtaK!)
This is also usually wired up. It is a little harder to find. It is on a connector right near the fuse box under the hood. I would do a search on HT and find a picture of it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
replace water pump (is it definatly needed?)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DON'T HAVE TO (but it's a REALLY BAD IDEA not to)
I would replace it... it goes along with the Timing belt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
plugs/wires
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DON'T HAVE TO (assuming the H22 has some one there already)
I would replace them though

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wire external distributer (any writeups?)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DON'T HAVE TO (you can use the internal coil)
As long as you use your H23 Harness (which you pretty much have to) you can just reuse your H23 dist. It is external, all you have to do is put it on the H22. There is a write-up on PO.com on how to rewire the internal though if you want to use it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
timing belt replacement
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DON'T HAVE TO
But, it is a BAD idea not to. I would also consider replacing/removing the balance shaft belt, and seal while your in there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
all other pulleys replaced
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DON'T HAVE TO
You can just reuse your H23 accessories and replace or reuse your old belts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if anything I listed doesn't definatly need to be done. let me know. If i can get away with running old pullies for a week let me know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would also recommend changing the front and rear main seals, as well as relacing the oil cooler gasket while the motor is out of the car.

 

well the motor and tranny package i'm getting has the ecu with it so i'll be using a p13

since mine is a 92 will that make v-tec harder to wire? (you said 93-up already wired for it)

why would i pretty much have to use the h23 harness?

anfd in another thread they confused me, but if i retain h23 cat-back, everything else needs to be h22 pieces right? just tell me plain and simple what options i have IE: retain h23 exhaust = these parts

h22 cat back = these parts

 

Just use your h23 harness and your external distributor.

There is a simple thread in the FAQ's on how to wire vtec
by yours truely

Some other things you might consider while the motor is out of
the car.

Clutch, Hondata im gasket.

I would go ahead do the timing belt and water pump, especially
since you're doing the man. tens. conversion anyway.

 

if you're getting a jdm h22a - you'll also want to rob your h23's fuel rail - because the one on the jdm h22a will be for a RHD, and the fuel line won't reach it in that configuration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> well the motor and tranny package i'm getting has the ecu with it so i'll be using a p13

since mine is a 92 will that make v-tec harder to wire? (you said 93-up already wired for it)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not really that bad... Just a little easier on the 93+ models. On the 93+ models since half of the wiring is already there you just need to find the right harness under the hood and wire 1 from the VTEC solenoid, and one from the oil pressure switch. In your case (92), since you don't have the harness under the hood you will just need to wire those two wires all the way back to the ECU. Don't forget the third wire which is the ground to the VTEC soleniod.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why would i pretty much have to use the h23 harness?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
(Assuming you got a JDM H22)
I've been told (never verified it myself) that the JDM harness will not reach b/c it is too short. (Since on a RHD car it goes through the drivers side firewall. The H23 Harness is pretty much idenitcal to the USDM H22A1 harness except for the three wires mentioned above. I used it, as pretty much everyone else who has done the swap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr1mo_13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
anfd in another thread they confused me, but if i retain h23 cat-back, everything else needs to be h22 pieces right? just tell me plain and simple what options i have IE: retain h23 exhaust = these parts

h22 cat back = these parts</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok you need a H22A header (from the exhuast manifod to the input of the cat). So you retain your H23 cat and H23 cat-back. The only thing I had to do was enlarge the bolt holes a little on the header were it connected to the cat... and it worked like a charm.

FYI- the reason people talk about the differences in the VTEC and H23's system is because the difference lengths in the cat and cat-back system (compared to the H22 can and cat-back). But once you bolt up the H23 cat to H23 cat-back it is the same OVERALL length as the H22 cat and cat back system. As long as you use the whole Cat and Cat-back system of either car you will be fine. So for you, just use your H23 cat, and H23 cat-back. Make sense?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Altilude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're getting a jdm h22a - you'll also want to rob your h23's fuel rail - because the one on the jdm h22a will be for a RHD, and the fuel line won't reach it in that configuration. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point, forgot about that.

 

i guess i keep getting confused about the whole exhaust part of this swap........when i go to do my swap........i am going to buy a vtec header and downpipe.....and a vtec high flow cat......now i already have an Apexi WS2 cat back from my h23.......will this bolt up to the things i have listed above......?...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -95LudeSI- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess i keep getting confused about the whole exhaust part of this swap........when i go to do my swap........i am going to buy a vtec header and downpipe.....and a vtec high flow cat......now i already have an Apexi WS2 cat back from my h23.......will this bolt up to the things i have listed above......?...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure... I would like to see someone else's comments on this as well. I thought I heard that all aftermarket exhausts were the same (For H23 and H22).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not sure... I would like to see someone else's comments on this as well. I thought I heard that all aftermarket exhausts were the same (For H23 and H22).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the exhausts are the same... It is only the downpipe and cat length that is different... All you have to do is match cats and downpipe/headers... I.E. - VTEC header with VTEC cat, Si Header with Si cat...

 

ok, it's all settled then. thank you all for making sense of the jibberish going through my head yesterday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok you need a H22A header (from the exhuast manifod to the input of the cat). So you retain your H23 cat and H23 cat-back. The only thing I had to do was enlarge the bolt holes a little on the header were it connected to the cat... and it worked like a charm.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what i did, took like 15 mins with a dremel to widen the holes a little on the h23 cat but then it bolted up like a charm. Also remember to use some anti-seize on all that stuff too if u ever plan on having it apart again.

The Fuel rail from the H23 will haev to be reused with the h22.

And on the distributor all you have to do is connect 1 wire from the internal distributor to the harness and you can use it. there is a write up on it somwhere.

I would highly suggest doing the Clutch too while you have the engine out. it makes it a hell of alot easier.

here's my site i have a few pictures on it of what all we did. i had the 92 also so we had to do the wiring but its not too bad, ill look for a write up that i had on it. ours came out real clean.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/383594