first day with a tig welder i just bought a miller sinc 180 sd and am verry happy with it so far this was my first night things came out well i think just more practice and joint prep and i think il be golden aney tips from the pros would be greatly appreciated.

 

Practice.

Once you get the heat dead on, mild steel will turn a goldish color. Also practice rotating the torch around pipe, kinda tough to get used to.

 

yeah that was def an issue i would notice wayy to late that i wasent aney near 10 degrees angle more like 50

 

best thing you could do is get on that machine and practice everyday. so far your doing awesome

 

looks like ****!!

 

keep it up! looks great for a beginner!

 

the latest and gratest

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by socaliracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like ****!! </TD></TR></TABLE>troll.

Keep practicing.

 

Rather than dabbing the wire in, hold it in the puddle and then weave back and forth across it in a pattern like this:

(edited so as to not jack this thread with talk of my welds rather than those posted above.)

pipe....after a long time without. I am still working on getting my mojo back

If you dab wire and pull the wire out of the argon shield, it contaminates the end, then putting it back into the puddle puts all that trash into the puddle.

What angle are you holding your tungsten at? it should be angled in the direction of travel at somewhere between a 30-45 degree angle from straight up and down.

Also notice that in my welds, I ran enough heat that things were pretty smooth. On carbon steel, heat is good....but uncontrolled heat is not.


Modified by Engloid at 9:20 PM 7/12/2005

 

engloid, how much did that robot cost? lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">engloid, how much did that robot cost? lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They're pretty cheap here in Tennessee, but they do travel for the right amount of money.

 

showoff

il give it a try

 

Not bad for your first day. One thing to remmber is to always keep the tungstin sharp and clean. also the smaller the puddle the smaller the bead and on piping like exuast it looks better. Ill post up some of my welds later. Keep up the great work!

 

i beleive the puddle should be as wide as the material is thick...also how much prep work you put into the materials before you weld them together makes the bead that much cleaner.

when i started i was barely wire-wheeling, de-burring and alcohol wiping the materials and my welds showed it. the more and more time i spent practicing welding the more time i spent prep'ing the metal. the only contamination i have now is from that damn long *** 308 bouncing in and out of the argon "shield". if your having trouble with that like i was it was easy to fix by cutting the 3' wire into 1'6" sections.

looks like awesome progression to me bud

also: make sure you bolt that head flange to another one or c-clamp in to a flat surface to keep it from warping

 

You are right. And great advise on keeping the material clean i had that problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the only contamination i have now is from that damn long *** 308 bouncing in and out of the argon "shield". if your having trouble with that like i was it was easy to fix by cutting the 3' wire into 1'6" sections.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why not just stop pulling the wire so far away from the puddle when you pull it out?

 

its not that im pulling the wire too far its that the wire at its full 3' length flex's up and down when im dipping which sucks when im trying to be steady and consistent. i dont have this problem at all when the wire is cut in half before i begin welding. im practicing on dp's, flanges and exhaust sections so the bead is pretty small, i find that with the more control i have the better everything looks and with the wire in 1'6" sections i have WAY more control than in 3' sections..

 

how do u get the gold bead finish when welding stainless? ive seen people that have welded stainless and the finish just just silver as opposed to golden

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by songling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u get the gold bead finish when welding stainless? ive seen people that have welded stainless and the finish just just silver as opposed to golden</TD></TR></TABLE>

Keep in mind that ANY color other than silver is CONTAMINATION.

Sure, a lot of people say that gold is perfect, but it's not. Color means very little about a weld. Not only that, but in industry, you are REQUIRED to brush the color off the weld after making it.

If you take a very experienced welder and tell them you want them to make a weld gold, the odds of them getting it in even the fourth try will be slim. The color is most times, a direct function of the speed of travel and the gas coverage. It is NOT a function of the quality of a weld.

In other words, don't worry about trying to get a gold weld, as the guys that say gold is so great don't really know what they're talking about.

 

fair enough :D
i just dont understand why all of burns stainless stuff have that goldish type finish on the bead? and arn't they sposed to be best?
u will even notice on the main page http://www.burnsstainless.com/
on the right side the picture of the manifold all the beads are a distint difference in colour to the metal.
i definatly take your advice engloid but the more i know the better
perhaps casey could shed some more info as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by songling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just dont understand why all of burns stainless stuff have that goldish type finish on the bead? and arn't they sposed to be best?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The color sells...plain and simple. 10 years ago, you'd not see the color left on the welds on things. Maybe the import craze started this trend of not brushing the welds. I don't know.

They do good quality stuff. You also have to keep in mind that there's more to a quality part than the welding. I would bet money that each part is fitup as close to perfect as possible, likely by machining, prior to welding. They use good parts, they fit it well, they weld it well, and they finish it well.

Today's consumers of items like this have really grown to focus ONLY on welding, and it's not the only factor that needs to be considered when determining the quality of a part.

 

I think this is what Englid is refering to, notice there is no color on the bead on the flange at all. Too bad I can't do that on all of my welds

 

 

Man I don't even know how to tig yet and I am super impressed with your welding, big to you for progressing so fast. The manifold looks great!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Diffrent. IMO I don't think it will flow that well with 2 and 3 T'ing strait into 1 and 4.

Props for DIY though!