Where should I start looking? I've replaced the coil. I burned something up when I upgraded my power wires (alternator/battery). Any suggestions?

 

Could it be my TPS?

 

any cels?

 

no codes.


Modified by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO at 8:07 PM 7/6/2005

 

would a bad fuel pump throw a code? would it still be able to run for a second if it's bad? i can hear it prime up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where should I start looking? I've replaced the coil. I burned something up when I upgraded my power wires (alternator/battery). Any suggestions? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you unplug your sensors by any chance?
After completing a Civic Si Edelbrock turbo kit install:
I mixed up the TPS plug with the sensor plug on the back of the intake mani (same shaped plug, both are interchangeable) and the car dies everytime at 2200rpms, but idled fine. threw a code (non-CEL) voltage otu of range. swapped the plugs and car was like OEM!

just a thought

 

anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

 

Check all of your sensors. Have you messed with your intake manifold? when i put my skunk2 manifold on my sensors were backwards. my car would start up but when i would give it gas it would die. try checking all of your sensors by the manifold.

 

^^checked. that's not it.

 

I could also be a nasty vac. leak. That's what happened to me. one of the vac lines on my I/M came loose and everytime I put any sort of pressure on the gas pedal it would sputter and die.

 

^^nah, it's definitly something electrical. i burned something up when I ran larger power wire to the main fuse box. its runs okay for 2-3 seconds, then cuts off. when i touch the gas, the RPMs will drop steadily until it shuts off.

if i have a bad ignitor, will it even start like this?

 

if you car isnt throwing a code you have to hold the RPMS up to the point right before it cuts out for a minute of so so that whatever values sensors are sending can be stored as an ECU code.

Here's a thought..... maybe you should tell us what you "BURNT UP" so that we may better assist u? How about a pic of the damage?

Did you get your ECU scanned?

 

ok, if i touch the throttle at all, it cuts out. there's no point before it cuts out.

i don't know what i burned up, but something obviously did.

by the way, the is a 91 ls, obd0.

 

Did you check the TPS and volt at the sensor. might want check the wire from the TPS to the ECU?

 

sound like a timing problem, does the car idle rough at all or do the rpms change much while you have it idling?

 

it's not a timing problem from what i can tell. the engine sounds fine, it just cuts off. i'll check the TPS more thoroughly, as well as the alternator. dammit, i need my car back on the road. es el suck.

 

ignitor .. had the same problem in my 91 ls.

 

it almost sounds like a fuel delivery problem, when my car was out of gas it would run until i gave it more air. id say look into the fuel system

 

I had a crx that did that and the rotor screw in the distributor fell out, you might want to check that just for ***** and giggles... but definately sounds like a timing issue..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's not a timing problem from what i can tell. the engine sounds fine, it just cuts off. i'll check the TPS more thoroughly, as well as the alternator. dammit, i need my car back on the road. es el suck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what are the voltage readings coming from your TPS sensor at closed throttle and WOT?

a multimeter would be good right now

 

okay, i have 4.95V at closed throttle, and it doesn't change when i move the throttle to WOT. i backprobed the two outside wires out of the three on the connector. am i doing something wrong? i thought the voltage was supposed to rise when i opened the throttle.

i also did the ignitor unit input test out of the helms, and everything checked out. the test checks all of the wires going to the ignitor, but i never actually tested the ignitor itself. the helms says "if all tests ok, yet the system still fails to work, replace the ignitor unit assembly". i don't want to buy a new ignitor unless i KNOW it's broken.

when i opened the throttle to test the voltage, i noticed a strong smell of gas inside the manifold. i guess that's to be expected if you start a car multiple times and it doesn't run for more than a second or two.

"yaarrrrrrrrrrr! i broke my carrrrrr!" &lt;/pirate voice&gt;

 

okay, with the ignition on, and no cranking, i'm getting ~.1V between the negative coil terminal, and battery positive. should that be happening?

i'll update shortly after i have someone crank the car for me.

UPDATE: after a few dry starts with the cap off, i did the same test again. i got 12 volts. then i had someone crank the car while i did the same test. i got less than a volt the whole time.

i think i've found my problem.


Modified by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO at 11:31 AM 7/9/2005

 

arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh hhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!

the new ignitor didn't fix it. is it possible for an ECU to go out, and not have the solid, constant CEL code?


Modified by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO at 4:16 PM 7/10/2005

 

sounds like a case of some "sucks to be u"......

 

it was the alternator. luckily i hada spare laying around.