Just wondering how similar all the D series blocks are. Reason why I ask is because I'm doing a ZC swap and was wondering if the timing belt replacement procedure would be roughly the same as shown in the CRX workshop manual.

 

single or dual?

 

DOHC ZC

 

bump

 

The CRX workshop manual should include a section for the DOHC ZC, mine does at least.

 

I got the one from here ( http://www.88-crx.com/manuals.htm ). Top one, dosnt have anything on the CRX. Also got the one of the Norcal website, nothing ZC. Both are on the d16a8 and 9

 

DOHC ZC Timing Belt Replacement
1. Remove (2) bolts securing top portion of timing belt cover and lift top portion of cover off. Remove the valve cover.
2. Place socket and ratchet on bolt attaching crankshaft pulley to crankshaft and rotate engine counterclockwise until the Top Dead Center mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the mark on the front of the lower timing cover. On the crankshaft pulley, there are (4) marks, (3) of which are close together and (1) which is by itself a little ways to the right of the other (3). The one by itself is the TDC mark. With the Top Dead Center marks aligned, look at the camshaft gears and see if the “UP” arrows are pointing up. If they are down instead of up, you are at Top Dead Center on #4 instead of #1 and you need to continue rotating the engine counterclockwise until the Top Dead Center marks on the crankshaft are again aligned and the arrows are up. If they are pointing up, you are o.k.
3. Removing the crankshaft pulley: The bolt attaching the pulley to the crankshaft is a normal right hand thread bolt and loosens by turning it counterclockwise. In order to remove the bolt, you will need some way to prevent the engine from turning when you try to loosen it. Even with air impact wrench, it will sometimes still turn the engine. After you have loosened the crankshaft pulley bolt (before removing pulley), check to make sure that the Timing Marks on the pulley and timing cover are still aligned. Remove the pulley. Be careful that you don’t lose the woodruff key that fits in the keyway in the crank and pulley.
4. Remove the bottom portion of the timing belt cover.
5. Remove the timing belt outer guide plate from the crankshaft. Look carefully at how it is installed. The concave (dished in) portion is facing out.
6. Look at the top of the head, just behind the cam gears, at the first camshaft bearing caps (they are numbered I1 & E1). You will see a little projection on the back side of the bearing caps with a hole in it. Place a punch or small bolt down through the holes in the caps into the holes in the camshaft. This will hold the camshafts in the correct position and keep the valve spring pressure from rotating them once the belt is removed.
7. Check to make sure that the camshafts are actually in the correct position by looking at the camshaft gears. On the front of the gears, you will see (2) small marks on each gear that are 180 degrees apart. When the camshafts are correctly aligned, the marks on the side of the gears, where the gears are closest to each other, will be aligned directly across from each other. The “UP” arrows will not be pointing at exactly 12 o’clock. They will be slightly off.
8. Loosen the bolt in the center of the belt tensioner pulley. Take hold of the belt on the right side (when looking from the front of the engine) between the intake camshaft gear and the water pump and pull up on the belt as far as you can, which will cause the tensioner pulley to move to the right. Hold the belt in this position and tighten the tensioner pulley bolt.
9. Remove the old belt.
10. Look at the timing belt gear on the crankshaft. It has a mark on the face of it. This mark should be aligned with the arrow which is cast into the oil pump housing. If it is not aligned, rotate crankshaft until it is.
11. Install the new timing belt onto the gears and behind the tensioner pulley. On the left side (opposite the water pump side) make sure that there is no slack in the belt and that it is tight between the crankshaft gear and exhaust camshaft gear.
12. Check again to see that all of the marks are aligned - crankshaft mark aligned with arrow and marks on camshaft gears directly across from each other.
13. Loosen tensioner pulley bolt which will allow tensioner to move back to the left causing the belt to tighten. Check to see that belt is tight between the intake camshaft gear and water pump. Just to make sure that everything is tight, push the tensioner pulley to the left to remove any slack and then release it.
14. With tensioner pulley bolt still loose, remove punches or bolts holding camshafts in position and rotate engine counterclockwise 90 degrees or 1/4 turn. Tighten tensioner pulley bolt to 33 ft. lbs.
15. Rotate engine counterclockwise back to Top Dead Center on #1 and check to make sure that all timing marks are still aligned.
16. Replace timing belt outer guide plate on crankshaft, just like it came off.
17. Replace lower timing belt cover, woodruff key and crankshaft pulley.
18. Replace upper timing belt cover and valve cover. Good idea to install new valve cover gasket and spark plug hole seals at this time.
19. You should now have a new timing belt correctly installed.

 

yeah sorry about that, i accidently deleted my last post and forgot to say that i found the ZC timing article. Its bookmarked and all now, but thanks for the info. I guess I'll just use the same torque specs as the d16a8, or just read around some more.