Want better braking feel ? Do this !!! Crx Si (7/8) MC to prelude (15/16) MC
SLIGHT BENDING OF 1 LINE REQUIRED..

I managed some time today to install the Prelude master cylinder on my 1991 Crx Si. I used the same crx si booster. Install was easy..hardest thing was bleeding the brakes...lol Bending the front brake line near the resevoir was easy too.
The pedal feels so much more stiff ! Takes that "mushy" feel away completly.Less effort is required now. With the CRX MC, the brakes would work with the pedal halfway down. Now they work near the top of the pedal's travel.Once I get the 4 piston calipers and new rotors + pads, the car will stop on a dime !



http://thezam.org/kam/preludemc.html





Modified by Rob. at 10:00 PM 7/8/2005

 

Awesome. I'll be doing something along these lines at some point soon, hopefully before VIR...

 

People upgrade their OEM brakes + neglect the stock MC.

To get good-great breaking on ef's all you need is:

- 15/16 MC
- Stainless steel braided lines
- KVR or Willwood 4 piston calipers
- Hawk brake pads
- You can use the the stock OEM sized rotors if you want, or upgrade to slotted.It bites the pad a bit harder.

 

A note to anyone reading, the master cylinder swap does not improve braking - only the pedal feel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To get good-great breaking on ef's all you need is:

- 15/16 MC
- Stainless steel braided lines
- KVR or Willwood 4 piston calipers
- Hawk brake pads
- You can use the the stock OEM sized rotors if you want, or upgrade to slotted.It bites the pad a bit harder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can guarantee you my car stops faster than yours, and all I have from that list is the 15/16" MC and OEM 9.5" blank rotors.

You also missed the most important braking mod, which is tires.



Modified by Targa250R at 9:48 PM 7/5/2005

 

Are you talking about the MC? you quoted everything so i was wondering.

BTW is the 89 lxi MC any easier to install? I head that one works too or is it the same as the prelude?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you talking about the MC? you quoted everything so i was wondering.

BTW is the 89 lxi MC any easier to install? I head that one works too or is it the same as the prelude?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I edited to make it more clear.

The Accord LX-i MC is exactly the same as the Prelude 2.0Si MC (part number 46100-SM4-J04). You'll have to bend one of the hard lines to make it work.

If you don't want to bend a line, then what you'll want is a '90-91 Civic EX 4dr MC (part number 46100-SH4-A11). It is 15/16", will bolt up to the stock booster, and the lines connect the the MC at the same points as your stock 13/16" or 7/8" Civic/CRX MC.

 

Can all the resivors be interchanged between the MC's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can all the resivors be interchanged between the MC's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you wanna do that ?

 

any online source for the 4 piston calipers??

 

why do you need 4-piston calphier the stock brakes can lock up 15 hoosier r- compound with easy and you want more braking power?.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattamotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you need 4-piston calphier the stock brakes can lock up 15 hoosier r- compound with easy and you want more braking power?.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok.. what rotors + pads you using? stock ? what's setup do you have ?

 

umm i know this is kinda off but i always feel bad about making a new thread so i figure i'll ask in here....

ok my brakes are feeling not good. By that i mean that when its warm outside (90-100 now) if i sit at a light or something too long holding the brake it will go all the way to the floor. Also when i stop hard i have to pump the brake once. Now its not leaking any brake fluid but i can't think of what it would be.

Any help would be great. Also i plan on a future up grade the same as our topic starter since with more power you need more stoping ( i'm so clever)

 

That's exactly the problem i was having ! MC is gone ! The seals inside are shot ! The MC cant take the heat of the engine + outside temp ! It gets really really really hot under that engine bay !

change it to a prelude MC and you'll be good to go !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok.. what rotors + pads you using? stock ? what's setup do you have ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock 7/8" MC, stainless lines, DOT 4, stock calipers and rotors and Hawk HP+ is all you ever need for street/autox. I run that setup and have serious braking. If you are doing track events, throw in a set of Hawk Blues and you are good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solorex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock 7/8" MC, stainless lines, DOT 4, stock calipers and rotors and Hawk HP+ is all you ever need for street/autox. I run that setup and have serious braking. If you are doing track events, throw in a set of Hawk Blues and you are good to go. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ya i can lock up mine really easily too....im runnning the integra da conversion,stock rotors,ceramic pads,15/16 mc,stock lines....and this setup is really powerful and locks my azenies easily....4pot calipers r overkill in a 2000lb car

 

My brand new prelude MC is waiting to be installed.

 

so should i buy a brand new one? or should i go to the yard and buy one? i'd perfer new but what kinda price an i looking at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so should i buy a brand new one? or should i go to the yard and buy one? i'd perfer new but what kinda price an i looking at?</TD></TR></TABLE>
buy new...i got mine from kragen for 56 bucks or something after core exchange(like 75w/o)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so should i buy a brand new one? or should i go to the yard and buy one? i'd perfer new but what kinda price an i looking at?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get a new or reman MC; if you get the same MC your car originally came with, you can turn your old one in for a core exchange. Pulling one from the junkyard is risking getting another dead or dying MC.

 

since im having trouble sourcing an ex master, im going to try to get the 'lude one. 11" +rear disc+shot master=suck

 

is it simple enough to put it on?

i think i'm gonna buy it then when i replace the old one i'll turn in the stock on for a core and get my $$ back.

thanks guys! now i can fix my brakes this weekend! So you guys are saying its stiffer? like will it be over kill and i'll end up sliding around or will it just some getting used to?

 

OH and what about the reservoir? in your link it says they are diffrent sizes? will the origional CRX one work for me? i kinda doubt they will have a prelude one instock so its kinda important

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> like will it be over kill and i'll end up sliding around or will it just some getting used to?
</TD></TR></TABLE> you'll get used to it and love the better pedal feel you will have

 

If you have a weak brake system, wouldn't you re do everything first instead of upgrading this and that???

I re-did my cousin's MC with an AUTOZONE replacement unit, bled the system and it was a lot better. Then we did his lines to SS units (Russell) and that was a great improvement. Next up was the rotors and pads (Pepboys blanks and Hawk HPS pads) this made the biggest difference.

This weekend we're at the rears with 1G CRX drums and new OEM shoes and cylinders.

Too many people modifying the chit out of their brakes before doing any research on effects.

Look up GRM's "Pulp-Friction" article plus their follow up on Brake Bias before modifying anything.

Here since I'm nice
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/br....html
goes up to page5 .

The content is written by James Walker Jr. a brake systems engineer and ITA Racer. Not sure what he's up to now a days, but I'd read more on what he has to say before any of us JOHNNYSHADETREE mechanics.

 

I have GTsports for street and AX, and spec b for track days. Stainless steel lines, 15/16 master cylinder 40/40 prop valve, rear disc with stock front rigth now. car can lock all four with ease on race tires.

Probably am going to get 10.2 next year when i make the switch to a H1 car(underfuned and underprepared i know) but that jsut to stop fade which can come up alittle after liek 30 mins on track.