Ok heres the thing. Once either of these engines are swapped in it will be left preatty much stock except for very basic bolt-ons ( Intake, CAI, header, exahaust [hi-flow cat & cat back]). The d16z6 may get a cam if i decide on that since the engine itself is cheaper.
The engine will go in a car that see's about 200+ miles a week, a good mix of both highway, and a city with A LOT of stoplights. I go to the track only ONCE a month, and make about three passes each time. I don't really auto-x ever because I don't have the time for it (though I would like to, just do drive).

Q: Based on what i've told what engine seems like a better choice for me? Also to those guys who have done either one, or know quite a bit about either one: what will be the total cost (est.) of either one. I have a shop that will charge $1000 labor to do the swap. I would do it myself, but like I said I just don't have the time.

 

Depending on how you wire it, the d16z6 should be a cheaper install (no need for aftermarket mounts and linkage), but I would rather have the b20z for a daily driver, low end torque is a wonderful thing, and it will be faster overall.

 

Thats what I was going for. I know the d16z6 would be a cheaper swap, and I know both engines a very reliable. I just think I may be more satisfied with the b20z swap than the z6 swap because of all the torque on the low end.

I just don't want to let my eyes get bigger than my budget. I'm a college student and I only make about $277 every two weeks, from some really hard *** labor at that. Work + School + G/f + sleep = no time for Phillip. My car is my only real escape from ****.

I'm eyeing the z6 because of its low cost, and the fact that I will be at least in the low 16's. But, if its worth it I guess I should save for the b20.

I know you have opinions, so please let me have them.

 

Go b20z... down the line toss a vtec head on it and be in the 13's.

 

lol

down the line I'd probably by a second car. Something RWD... mabey a bike

 

Definitely B20Z. The D16Z6 may be cheaper. But the B20Z is a FAR better value.

 

or go with a d16z6 and throw a turbo kit on it (it will still cost less then the b20)

 

no replacement for displacment...hhaha go with the b20

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchinprogress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or go with a d16z6 and throw a turbo kit on it (it will still cost less then the b20)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this true. I assumed the d16z6 + turbo + tuning so it doesn't run like junkshift = more than the b20 swap.


Still, does anybody know the total cost of either one? Just strait forward, no extra stuff (except a cam for the d16z6, but I'll figure that in myself)

 

good---------------------------bad

===========Z6============
easy to bolt in----------------wiring
light----------------------------its a 1.6l
cheap parts-------------------no boost=no power

===========b20=============
its a 2.0l-----------------------have to buy mounts
pretty quick stock------------expensive parts
b20/vtec----------------------cost of eng/trans

=========DOHC ZC==============
cheap-------------------------its a d-series
bolt in-------------------------its a 1.6l
potential----------------------
cheap parts------------------

IM if you are gonna swap in a D-series get a DOHC ZC, if you are gonna go
b-series get a b18 a/b/c

 

The DOHC ZC is nice, but I've never seen one run 12's with a turbo while keeping stock internals.

The b18b would be nice, but the b20 has more stock torque.

 

bbka runs 12's on a stock internal SOHC d-series in a EG coupe w/ full interior, it can def happen with a DOHC ZC in an EF

 

I've seen lots of stock internal 12 second z6's, but no ZC's. I've actually seen people put less money into a z6 and run faster than a DOCH ZC. Also the fact that parts are more readily availible make the z6 seem like a better choice. Yet, I digress from the topic.

 

i say b20...it will be worth it at the end no matter what. Just don't plan ahead, save up an extra g or so then think about it...i'd go b20 vtec all motor!

 

B20Z = drop it in and forget about it (except, of course, regular maintenance)

SOHC turbo = hope it doesn't blow up in your face.

 

you're forgetting ONE MAJOR thing w/ the b20.

you will need a tunable ecu... only obd2 ECU's are meant for a b20.. so you'll need to a use turbo edit on a pm6.

but more likely you'll need uberdata AND convert the engine bay to obd-1.

DOHC ZC = cheaper than the rest and a straight bolt in wire up. (only need to use the two wires on the dist for the CPS).

 

I would just pickup a B18a, Cheap, and relatively powerfull.. get the OBD0 version and if your car is an SI Stupid easy to put in.

you can take it out of a 90-91 integra and get everything short of the mounts that you would need.... B18A swaps go for like 600$ + 150 for mounts. T-Belt and waterpump (oil pump if planning to go vtec later) and pretty much a Plug and play operation.... no need to hunt down Distributors, intakes, mounts transmissions... ect for the B20.

The D16Y8 would be my second choice, because the OBD0 Distributor bolts up to it with no modifications. and this would give you the ability to stay obd0 ( keep cost down) and use your current tranny and use an RPM switch to activate vtec.

 

If I stayed OBD-0 with the d16y8 then the only option i would have is to use a RPM switch. If I converted to OBD-1 then I would use a VAFC and that would be a lot safer right?

the b18a would more than likely need to be rebuilt and carry alot more miles than the b20 also. Although for two b18a's I could do the b20 and be less worried about it quitting, the modability (did i just make up a word) of the b18a is greater right?

 

you can use the the VAFC with OBD0 (I have it on my OBD0 B16A) I just used the RPM switch as a cheap(er) alternative... but the VAFC would work very well

the B20 is essencialy a b18 with 84mm sleeves and Pistons... not a huge difference.

if you pickup a B18a with some high milage, you can do a mild rebuild on it pretty cheaply (Rings, Bearings, seals, water pump, Tbelt) most of the stuff you would do on a JDM motor (minus Rings and bearings).

I have seen B18a for als little as 50$us and presonly have bought one for 75cnd.
I have found a COmplete B18a gasket Kit for like 100$ and if you wanted a little more power you can put in some PR3 pistons. (58$ each pistons and 27$ for Rings) 340$ new (at majestichonda.com)... or a desent set should be like 50$ used + 100$ for new rings.

so you tear down the block, get it honed or Bored (say 15$ a cylinder to hone + 30 to deck) 90$ of machine work. on the block

90-100$ for bearings (ACL or King)
100$ for a obd2 P72 GSR oil pump

so... say 100$ to buy the motor
100$ for a gasket kit
50$ for pistons (PR3)
100$ for rings
90$ of machine work on block
100$ for bearings
100$ for Oil pump
= 640$ for a rebuilt B18a basicaly the Price of a B20Z or a little cheaper depending on shipping.




Modified by K-Drum at 2:57 PM 7/7/2005

 

I thought I would be able to run a b18a ecu, or at least convert to obd-1 and run a b18b ecu.

The only additional stuff I would need is a: fuel pressure regulator, a LS intake man. , and GSR oil pump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20Z = drop it in and forget about it (except, of course, regular maintenance)

SOHC turbo = hope it doesn't blow up in your face.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that more or less is what I was going for.

 

b20 gets my vote no doubt...but youll end up spending about 1500-2g..and thats w/out installtion...but im sure you'll be happy with either one!!!

 

A D16z6 does not even compare to a B20Z

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Moon Ill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought I would be able to run a b18a ecu, or at least convert to obd-1 and run a b18b ecu.

The only additional stuff I would need is a: fuel pressure regulator, a LS intake man. , and GSR oil pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont see why not, i mean even if u kept the sohc, u will have to do A LOT more tuning than b20 (unless u go F/I) but i mean would u rather bang a ugly chick with plastic surgery or naturally hot girl with some "add ons"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Moon Ill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought I would be able to run a b18a ecu, or at least convert to obd-1 and run a b18b ecu.

The only additional stuff I would need is a: fuel pressure regulator, a LS intake man. , and GSR oil pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been running a P75 ECU with my B20Z with just an adjustable FPR for over three years with no problems. Now you could certainly get more power with a fully tuned system. But my setup definitely gets the job done.