Swap'd n Boosted CRXs w/ EG rad sign in....
Im running the EG half rad on my CRX with my boosted B20 (pics as soon as scanner decides to work) do any of you guys ever overheat? Im running the EG rad and the JRC 6in and with the fan ON from the second the car starts, I hit the freeway & on an 80 deg day my water temp is @ 220 and oil temp is @ 215. Im having some pretty bad cooling issues and Im wondering what everyone else is doing. The stock CRX rad. cooled better then the EG one does before I was boosted. So what are you other swap'd n boosted guys doing to combat overheating issues? Also the fan shroud is like right next the inlet of my turbine so I cant get a filter on it... So Ive been running a mesh screen, well I sucked it in the other night so Ive got to do something else.... Any input would be great...
tia
Blaze
tia
Blaze
same issue..on my boosted b16 i tried eg rad with 2 fans on it pusher and puller...i tried the stock rad...after relocating battery to back it worked a little better...but ur gonna need the aluminum radiator from full-race.com ....it works perfect
what size fan? do you have any air bubbles in your coolant? single core rad/dual?
edit: things to try; exhaust wrap, keeps underhood temps down, and water wetter.
Modified by speeddave at 4:03 PM 7/4/2005
edit: things to try; exhaust wrap, keeps underhood temps down, and water wetter.
Modified by speeddave at 4:03 PM 7/4/2005
the full-race radiator works like a charm...
i ran a 1/2 pwr radiator w/ a 12" slimline puller. inlet temps were 210 and outlet temps were 180. ALUMINUM PWONES
i ran a 1/2 pwr radiator w/ a 12" slimline puller. inlet temps were 210 and outlet temps were 180. ALUMINUM PWONES
Which EG rad are you running? The one from the del sol (w/ b16) is thicker. Also, if you live in an area where it doesn't freeze, lessen the mixture of coolant (75% water 25% coolant) and run a bottle of redline water wetter in the system. You should see a decent drop in temperature.
Im running a new copper one off of Ebay that I picked up for $50 bucks. Its a dual core copper unit. I got the copper unit due to the fact that it has a better heat transfer rate then aluminum does. There arent any bubbles in my coolant, Ive beld the system. Im running the stock fan with an overide switch so it wont heat up so fast. How much does the full race run unit run? What kind of engine temps would you all run with the radiators @ what outside temps? Whats full races web addy?
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im running the 99-00 si radiator and fan(wired to a switch) seems to working in houston's hot weather. had an eg with two ac condenser fans . worked till the fans wore a hole in the radiator.
IIRC, there was a guy selling eg-size half width rad in the classifieds for ~$90. It was alumninum and was really thick. I plan on getting either that of the auto del sol core (2 cores thick). I'm not sure if you can run your engine oil through it's trans cooler line, since it reaches almost 80psi - I'm guessing the tranny doesn't see that much pressure.
http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7...=1.6L
Im ordering this today. I had one in my EG before and it runs VERY cool. 2 core 94 Del Sol VTEC rad.
Hank
p.s. could you email me some info on mountion the EG rad in an EF? i looked on your site, but didnt see anything. hanknatiz@peoplepc.com
Thanks
Hank
Im ordering this today. I had one in my EG before and it runs VERY cool. 2 core 94 Del Sol VTEC rad.
Hank
p.s. could you email me some info on mountion the EG rad in an EF? i looked on your site, but didnt see anything. hanknatiz@peoplepc.com
Thanks
Hank
I would think so, but the only way to find out is to get the manifold and then get the measurements on the full race unit and see... Does anyone know why people make radiators aluminum instead of copper? (high performance ones) Everything Ive read that copper has a better heat transfer rate then aluminum & full race wont get back to me, Ive sent a few emails...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXnorway »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i use the full race rad wit a b16 swp in my rex and a ram horn manifold? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, with room to spare.
Yes, with room to spare.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would think so, but the only way to find out is to get the manifold and then get the measurements on the full race unit and see... Does anyone know why people make radiators aluminum instead of copper? (high performance ones) Everything Ive read that copper has a better heat transfer rate then aluminum & full race wont get back to me, Ive sent a few emails...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is a link I found on the net. Look on page 2 "Why Aluminum" and start reading the last paragraph on the left column.
http://www.dewitts.com/download/2004catalog.pdf
And here is a pic of my PWR radiator installed onto my Full Race traction bar along with a Revhard kit on my B18C. The TIAL WG is from my old setup and I have a different WG setup now with a dumptube. The ziptie is around the radiator in case the upper mount becomes undone.


Here is a link I found on the net. Look on page 2 "Why Aluminum" and start reading the last paragraph on the left column.
http://www.dewitts.com/download/2004catalog.pdf
And here is a pic of my PWR radiator installed onto my Full Race traction bar along with a Revhard kit on my B18C. The TIAL WG is from my old setup and I have a different WG setup now with a dumptube. The ziptie is around the radiator in case the upper mount becomes undone.


Im thinking I might try running an Si rad and see if that does anything. If it doesnt, Ill still prolly have to pick up a full race or something. Has anyone tried those no namers off of Ebay like that guy was talking about?
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