I am working on a 1990 Civic that wont start.

The starter engine turns over vigorously when I turn the key

I can hear the fuel pump come on, so I dont think it is the main relay.

I did test the main relay and all the continuities were perfect.

I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and it didnt even puff once.

When I pull a spark plug, I get NO spark when the engine turns over.

When I look at the tip of the spark plug, it doesnt have any wet gasoline on it.

I have checked the little light under the passenger's feet, and it just blinks once and then stays off.

I tried to test the ingnitor but I am confused because mine has a blue wire, two white/blue wires, and a black/yellow. It doesnt seem to match what I have seen on this forum for which wire to test for power and ground. I do get power on the black/yellow and one of the white/blue when I turn on the key. The blue and other white/blue seem dead.

I have visually inspected the fuses and they seem good.

Any idea what I should check now? What are the symptoms of a bad ignitor? How much should I expect to pay for one of those? Do they have them at auto parts places or is it a dealer item? Any other thoughts?

It seems to not have fuel OR spark. So, maybe the ECU isnt getting the signal that it uses to trigger the coil/injectors.

I appreciate any help you give me.

 

Try this if you have a voltmeter. If you have a dwell meter there is an easier way.

Engine Won’t Start? Check
Coil & Igniter
On models with single-coil ignition systems, if the
engine cranks but there’s no spark at the plugs, check the
ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by using this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can vary
between models, so use the appropriate ETM to ID them.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL
(malfunction indacator lamp).
• If the MIL doesn’t come on, or it comes on and
stays on, refer to MIL Basics on this page.
• If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then goes
off, go to step 2.
2. Check for battery voltage at the positive wire going
to the coil, and at the positive wire going to the ICM.
• If you have battery voltage, go to step 3.
• If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and the
coil.
3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
• If you get about 8 V with the wire conected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
• If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconected, install a new ICM, and retest.

 

This was just what I was looking for! Thanks!

 

My civic has the same problem it is the ecu because it tired it, don't know want the problem is.