I DID A Z6 SWAP IN A 96 DX HATCH. I DID THE IAC FIX AND SWAPPED OUT THE

INTERNALS ON THE DIZZY. NOW THE ONLY THING I A HAVING A PROBLEM WITH

IS THE ENGINE HAS NO POWER AND DOESN'T IDLE. A BUDDY OF MINE OWNS A

H DEALERSHIP AND I WENT TO SEE HIM FOR SOME HELP. I HAD TWO CODES,

IAC AND THE OTHER WAS FUEL SUPPLY SYS. SO I ASKED HIM IF I COULD SWAP

OUT THE IAC WITH A SPARE HE HAD. HE SAID NO IN THE 35 YEARS HE HAS

BEEN WORKING ON HONDAS HE HAS NEVER HAD TO CHANGE ONE OUT, EVER.

SO I LEFT IT AT THAT. THEN WHEN I THOUGHT I'D SWAP OUT THE REGULATOR

TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP RID OF CODE 43 HE ALSO SAID HE HAS NEVER

HAD TO CHANGE A REGULATOR OUT EITHER. THEN I STARTED TO DOUBT THIS

GUY. SO I WENT HOME AND SWAPPED OUT THE IAC WITH ONE FROM MY OTHER

CAR, ONLY TO FIND OUT MY IAC DIDN;T HAVE ANY POWER GOING TO IT. SO I

THOUGHT I WOULD WORK ON GETTING THE CAR RUNNING BETTER AND WORRY

ABOUT IAC LATER. I RESET THE ECU AND CODE 43 WENT AWAY, NOW ONLY LEFT

WITH CODE 14 IAC. WITH ONLY THE IAC CODE I TRIED TO DRIVE THE CAR, IT

HAS NO POWER AT ALL. IT ALMOST SOUNDS AS IF IT IS DOWN A CYL. CHECKED

ALL PLUGS AND WIRES... OK. THEN CHECKED INJECTORS...OK. CHECKED FOR


VACCUME LEAKS, PUT MY HAND OVER THE THROTTLE BODY AND IT DIDN'T DIE.

NOW WHAT, I AM RUNNING A B16 TB WITH A D SERIES GASKET. I RE TORQUED

THE GASKET. STILL LEAKING... SO I FOUND A S2K THROTTLE BODY AND PUT


THAT ON, NO MORE LEAK. I SPRAYED CARB AND CHOKE CLEANER ALL OVER THE

PLACE AND I HAVE NO MORE LEAKS, BUT, IT STILL RUNS LIKE ****! THE

EXHAUST IS A LITTLE ON THE WARM SIDE SO I FIGURED IT ISN'T GETTING

ENOUGH FUEL. CHECKED THE CRAPPY AUTOMETER AIR/FUEL GUAGE AND IT

SAYS IT IS VERY LEAN. IN A PINCH I GRABBED THE VICE GRIPS AND CRUSHED

THE FUEL REGULATOR A LITTLE BIT TO RAISE THE PRESSURE A LITTLE. STILL NO

LUCK. THEN I THOUGHT, THE FUEL LINE I USED CAME OFF THE Y7, IT WOULDN'T

FIT RIGHT ON THE Z6 FUEL RAIL. I HAD TO BEND THE TABS BACK TO MAKE IT

FIT. IAM WONDERING IF MAYBE THAT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE MISS

THE CAR SEEMS TO HAVE. I AM RUNNING OUT OF IDEAS, I REALLY WANT TO GET

MY CAR RUNNING AND IAM PULLING MY HAIR OUT. PLEASE HELP!


I DID A Z6 SWAP IN A 96 DX HATCH. I DID THE IAC FIX AND SWAPPED OUT

THE INTERNALS ON THE DIZZY. NOW THE ONLY THING I A HAVING A PROBLEM

WITH IS THE ENGINE HAS NO POWER AND DOESN'T IDLE. A BUDDY OF MINE

OWNS A H DEALERSHIP AND I WENT TO SEE HIM FOR SOME HELP. I HAD TWO

CODES, IAC AND THE OTHER WAS FUEL SUPPLY SYS. SO I ASKED HIM IF I

COULD SWAP OUT THE IAC WITH A SPARE HE HAD. HE SAID NO IN THE 35

YEARS HE HAS BEEN WORKING ON HONDAS HE HAS NEVER HAD TO CHANGE

ONE OUT, EVER. SO I LEFT IT AT THAT. THEN WHEN I THOUGHT I'D SWAP OUT

THE REGULATOR TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP RID OF CODE 43 HE ALSO SAID

HE HAS NEVER HAD TO CHANGE A REGULATOR OUT EITHER. THEN I STARTED TO

DOUBT THIS GUY. SO I WENT HOME AND SWAPPED OUT THE IAC WITH ONE


FROM MY OTHER CAR, ONLY TO FIND OUT MY IAC DIDN;T HAVE ANY POWER

GOING TO IT. SO I THOUGHT I WOULD WORK ON GETTING THE CAR RUNNING

BETTER AND WORRY ABOUT IAC LATER. I RESET THE ECU AND CODE 43 WENT

AWAY, NOW ONLY LEFT WITH CODE 14 IAC. WITH ONLY THE IAC CODE I TRIED

TO DRIVE THE CAR, IT HAS NO POWER AT ALL. IT ALMOST SOUNDS AS IF IT IS

DOWN A CYL. CHECKED ALL PLUGS AND WIRES... OK. THEN CHECKED

INJECTORS...OK. CHECKED FOR VACCUME LEAKS, PUT MY HAND OVER THE

THROTTLE BODY AND IT DIDN'T DIE. NOW WHAT, I AM RUNNING A B16 TB WITH

A D SERIES GASKET. I RE TORQUED THE GASKET. STILL LEAKING... SO I FOUND

A S2K THROTTLE BODY AND PUT THAT ON, NO MORE LEAK. I SPRAYED CARB

AND CHOKE CLEANER ALL OVER THE PLACE AND I HAVE NO MORE LEAKS, BUT,

IT STILL RUNS LIKE ****! THE EXHAUST IS A LITTLE ON THE WARM SIDE SO I

FIGURED IT ISN'T GETTING ENOUGH FUEL. CHECKED THE CRAPPY AUTOMETER

AIR/FUEL GUAGE AND IT SAYS IT IS VERY LEAN. IN A PINCH I GRABBED THE

VICE GRIPS AND CRUSHED THE FUEL REGULATOR A LITTLE BIT TO RAISE THE

PRESSURE A LITTLE. STILL NO LUCK. THEN I THOUGHT, THE FUEL LINE I USED

CAME OFF THE Y7, IT WOULDN'T FIT RIGHT ON THE Z6 FUEL RAIL. I HAD TO

BEND THE TABS BACK TO MAKE IT FIT. IAM WONDERING IF MAYBE THAT HAS

SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE MISS THE CAR SEEMS TO HAVE. I AM RUNNING

OUT OF IDEAS, I REALLY WANT TO GET MY CAR RUNNING AND IAM PULLING MY

HAIR OUT. PLEASE HELP!


Modified by spork96 at 4:16 PM 7/3/2005

 

Not even gonna read 2 sentences in, all caps hurt my eyes, sorry bro.

 

WOW THAT DOES HURT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ncturnal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW THAT DOES HURT</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm glad it's not me, at first I just thought it was from partying too much last night.

 

Dude I just ficed the same problem I had same codes I was throwing IAC and fuel supply sys you have the wrong plug in the IAC the plug should be these colors lemme host a pic for ya the plug wires should be those colors for the IAC blue yellow

 

naw man i don;t think that will help me. after getting code 14 i ran two wires from the ecu jumper harness out the window over the fender to the iac just cause i couldn't get the pins out of the y7 harness. everything is correct i believe. it isn't getting power just confirmed with the volt meter. i think the jumper harness pins for the iac are loose. but i still runs like ****...

 

help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

the only other idea i have is to swap in the 450 injectors and it won;t be lean anymore

 

Ok I was finally able to make something out of all the caps, 1. Your buddy must have lost his brains 15 years ago. If he knew anything he would tell you that a code 14 indicates a problem in the IACV <U>circuit</U>. So your wires are fucked up. Since the MIL comes on right away I highly doubt it is the valve itself. So you disconnected the 2p connector and measure for voltage between the YEL/BLK and a BODY GROUND? If you measure from this wire to a body ground and didn't get voltage the YEL/BLK wire has a break/short in it. If you did get voltage there the check for continuity between the other wire on the IACV (BLU/YEL) and the A9 terminal on the ECU. If you got voltage in the first test and continuity in the second replace the ECU with a known good ECU and retest. The symptoms should go away. If the BLU/YEL wire is ok then apply and remove 12 V power to the IACV, if it doesn't click replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I was finally able to make something out of all the caps, 1. Your buddy must have lost his brains 15 years ago. If he knew anything he would tell you that a code 14 indicates a problem in the IACV <U>circuit</U>. So your wires are fucked up. Since the MIL comes on right away I highly doubt it is the valve itself. So you disconnected the 2p connector and measure for voltage between the YEL/BLK and a BODY GROUND? If you measure from this wire to a body ground and didn't get voltage the YEL/BLK wire has a break/short in it. If you did get voltage there the check for continuity between the other wire on the IACV (BLU/YEL) and the A9 terminal on the ECU. If you got voltage in the first test and continuity in the second replace the ECU with a known good ECU and retest. The symptoms should go away. If the BLU/YEL wire is ok then apply and remove 12 V power to the IACV, if it doesn't click replace it. </TD></TR></TABLE> Thank you basicly what I kinda explained I was throwing the same things code 14 (IACV) and 43 (Fuel Supply system) from having the WRONG plug in the IAC ut he disagreed with me when I know what the problem is but whatever its cool

 

here is the deal i have no power from the ecu from the yellow/black wire. i can't get power on a12 or a14 on the Y7 harness side. i followed the wires through the conversion harness to the ecu, no power on either one. does a p28 put power through these pins? i am really stumped. through the con harness one wire goes to the IAB pin and the other goes to A9 IAC. what should i do?????????????????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spork96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is the deal i have no power from the ecu from the yellow/black wire. i can't get power on a12 or a14 on the Y7 harness side. i followed the wires through the conversion harness to the ecu, no power on either one. does a p28 put power through these pins? i am really stumped. through the con harness one wire goes to the IAB pin and the other goes to A9 IAC. what should i do?????????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok man, print these two images out and follow the directions exactly. This is directly out of the Civic Factory Service Manual.. It may slightly vary with that conv. harness. But with common sense you will figure it out.




Good luck, you better get this now...


Modified by HondaFanatic708 at 7:32 PM 7/4/2005


Modified by HondaFanatic708 at 7:34 PM 7/4/2005


Modified by HondaFanatic708 at 7:36 PM 7/4/2005