Mig welding review ( pics inside)
Hey guys... just messing around with my mig after work at the shop today, and wanted to know if any of you experecned mig welders had any tips? My welds seem to have quite a bit of 'hidth' to them. I have a hobart 110 unit there best 110 they offer.
using .023 wire with argon/co2 mix
I am still trying new techniques... most of these were using the 'oval' method
thanks guys for your advice/help.
Andrew
using .023 wire with argon/co2 mix
I am still trying new techniques... most of these were using the 'oval' method
thanks guys for your advice/help.
Andrew
They all look great! You defenitely got the technique down! As for the "height" of them, yes they look a little tall. How thick is the material? Turn your wire speed down just a but and power up just a bit and you should be set. Great job though!
Kyle
Kyle
Looking pretty good. I want to say you might be better off bumping the voltage up a tad to get a bit more pentration and a flatter bead. Most of them don't seem to have much heat distortion around the bead, which might go along with the theory of the voltage a bit too low.
Other than that, the welds looks really nice and uniform.
EDIT: If you can, try moving to a thicker wire, maybe some .030 wire to help with the pentration.
Other than that, the welds looks really nice and uniform.
EDIT: If you can, try moving to a thicker wire, maybe some .030 wire to help with the pentration.
thanks for the advice guys... the issue i am battling now is wireing 'flashing' with the higher heat setting... it is schedual 10 SS i am using reg steel wire... maybe that has something to do with it? perhaps the melting point of the steel wire is too low compaired to the SS material and it doesnt have time to 'mate'
???
thanks guys,
Andrew
???
thanks guys,
Andrew
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the "height" of them, yes they look a little tall. How thick is the material? Turn your wire speed down just a but and power up just a bit and you should be set.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Another thing you can try is to speed up your travel speed a bit, so you're putting down less metal.
and you can try different patterns of movement also. I usually will use a zig-zag pattern with one of these 110 machines. Any backwards movement you make will only tend to build up a taller weld also...so if you want to put ripples in it, do very little backward movement in doing so.
I think you're on the right track here though. I don't see any spatter, which is good.
Another thing you can try is to speed up your travel speed a bit, so you're putting down less metal.
and you can try different patterns of movement also. I usually will use a zig-zag pattern with one of these 110 machines. Any backwards movement you make will only tend to build up a taller weld also...so if you want to put ripples in it, do very little backward movement in doing so.
I think you're on the right track here though. I don't see any spatter, which is good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adeihl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well most of those welds were using a oval pattern. long stoke at the bottom of the oval and a short one at the top.
thanks for the advice guys!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean half moons ?
I have talked to some of the pros, and they don't believe in that method. Just my 2 cents
What do you have the psi for the gas set on ? I see no splatter whats so ever.
thanks for the advice guys!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean half moons ?
I have talked to some of the pros, and they don't believe in that method. Just my 2 cents
What do you have the psi for the gas set on ? I see no splatter whats so ever.
no not half moons actual ovals that overlap as i move down. i found that if i make longer ovals it makes a thinner weld and gives nice 'ripples' as the metal cools. my gas is at 25 PSI duel mix argon/co2
my wider welds come out great i think.. i will post up some tonight.
Andrew
Modified by adeihl at 6:20 PM 7/3/2005
my wider welds come out great i think.. i will post up some tonight.
Andrew
Modified by adeihl at 6:20 PM 7/3/2005
Heres some new pics.. tried messing with heat/wire settings
Now... unless i am getting spatter.. there is no benifit to turning up the shielding gas right? i know it helps create 'ripples' with higher pressure due to its coolong effect.
Also... should i be able to see the weld penitrating on the backside of the material? on 16 gauge steel i can see it.. but with this schedual 10 i cant. is this an issue?
thanks guys!
Andrew
Now... unless i am getting spatter.. there is no benifit to turning up the shielding gas right? i know it helps create 'ripples' with higher pressure due to its coolong effect.
Also... should i be able to see the weld penitrating on the backside of the material? on 16 gauge steel i can see it.. but with this schedual 10 i cant. is this an issue?
thanks guys!
Andrew
Do use more voltage and less wire speed. Turning the voltage up will give better penetration. Turning the wire speed down will deposit less material. After you get a little more practice you definitely can increase your travel speed. But do not turn up the wire feed. That will deposit more material into the weld causing "gorilla welds". Also try leaving a very tiny space between the metal being welded together especially if it's thicker than 14 gauge. That will also help with penetration (seeing the weld through on the other side) and making your beads smaller. If you're getting some warping from upping the voltage try using tack welds in succession. ie. tack, move about an inch, tack, move about an inch, all the way across the area to be welded. Then move back to your 1st tack and tack again, then onto the next and so on until you have a full bead. That will help to distribute heat and stop any warping.
The method that I use for welding is side to side if I'm running a full bead. However, since I mostly weld on thin auto. body metal (20-14ga.) I usually use the tack and move method I told you about above. It works for anything.
The method that I use for welding is side to side if I'm running a full bead. However, since I mostly weld on thin auto. body metal (20-14ga.) I usually use the tack and move method I told you about above. It works for anything.
Imagine how easy making the little brackets would be now...no more hammer and vise :]
Good stuff...like above it's nice to see no splatter...looks like there will be no need for Emil huh?? j/k
Good stuff...like above it's nice to see no splatter...looks like there will be no need for Emil huh?? j/k
I'm sure Metal Welding/MG should have stuff for you (right behind walmart)
If you don't get a discount, tell them you're from Ace Trucking...thats where we get all our stuff from...plus the owners kid is good friends with Alex, so he sometimes gives even better ones :]
If you don't get a discount, tell them you're from Ace Trucking...thats where we get all our stuff from...plus the owners kid is good friends with Alex, so he sometimes gives even better ones :]
just try not to sit down and weld unless covered on your lap...this kid i know branded the tip on his dick when welding mig when a bead fell on his lap and burnt straight through... the only time i sit to weld is when i tig other than that i stand ... try a higher bench this way you can also notice the height of your weld... looking straight down may seems to be hindering your perception... but nice job and keep practicing...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmek910 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this kid i know branded the tip on his dick when welding mig when a bead fell </TD></TR></TABLE>
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
same thing happened to me couple years ago. I felt something hot so i fliped up my mask and the flame from my baggy jeans was almost as high as my chest. I grabbed my cup of Coke and just dumped it on, good new was I saved my manhood from being torched but I couldn't save my pair of jeans.. Good times!


