what combination should i use to get this kind of hp without the need of a b20 block,i want to keep the 1.74 r/s

 

lets see... jun 3's, jun valvetrain, bigger throttle body, bigger intake manifold, larger injectors, bigger fuel pump, ctr pistons, thinner head gasket, vfac, and lots and lots of tuning. there, i probably forgot some things but that should get u started. my PERSONAL suggestion is go for the bigger bottom end.

 

It's very easy actually (I'm referring to 200hp @ crank):

Let the ****** breath and burn gas faster!!

Cold air intake
70mm throttlebody (how about 4 independent for more flow capacity?)
Head port & polish
High lift cams (Jun, Spoon, Toda)
4-1 Header
Open exhaust
Fuel management system (Hondata, MT-1)

If you want beyond that start thinking of applying for a loan..

 

Talk to todasi I believe he has a b16 with a little over 200whp.

 

Yeah, I'm going to go for 200 whp ... but my formula (to make it easier and get more torque) is to use a B18C block. I thought about trying to do it with just the B16, but it is a lot easier to spend $700 on a GS-R shortblock ....... with the B16 head, it is ALREADY 11:1 compression just by bolting it on ....

 

i personally wouldn't user a thinner head gasket to get increased compression. you can mess up the head flow by doing that. but that is just my opinion...

 

Nope, he's got a itr bottom end with toda pistons, Leitner & Bush ported head with toda spec c's and a toda header. That puts him I believe in the 210 range. I think he made 179 with his b16 set up.
Civicguy, your asking for lot I was shooting for 200whp with my setup and its a 1.8 (was )
If your looking for a good r/s ratio do a b20 bottom with a b17 crank like Mike k did. Hes making over 200.

 

If you bolt a b16 head on a gsr shorty you get a cr of 9.8.1 not 11.1. If you want 11.1 you need jdm itr pistons.

 

No, if you bolt a B16 head on a GS-R, you get close to 11:1.

If you bolt on the GS-R head onto a B16 block THEN you get the lower ratio .....

Check this out, its pretty cool!!
http://www.bojangz.com/calculator/

 

wrong, if you bolt on a B16A head on top of the GSR block you lower the c/r
GSR head on top of the B16A block = higher C/R

 

OK, my bad, I forgot one step ...... put your stock PR3 pistons into the GS-R block ..... so I missed one thing ....

THEN you have 11:1!!

 

I made about 180ish with just ITR cams, ITR intake manifold, JG throttle body <64mm> Stock header, and Restrictive *** GReddy exhaust with a test pipe.

We got an instant 4 extra HP at the wheels throughout the RPM band when we put an intake on the car, but it wasn't mine, so I didn't get to keep it on there

With headwork, a header, better cams, higher compression lightweight pistons, and cam gears.. I can easily see 210-220 as possible.
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/jdmcivic/images/B16Dyno.jpg

 

his **** is nuts. Nothing like hearing that motor at 9500 + rpm's Sweet.

 

Whao.... 200HP at the wheels? With a B16? Thats going to be pretty tough if you choose the N/A path. I'm sure its possible.. but its gunna be hard.. and cost loads and loads of $$$$.

 

I say 12.1 high compression endyne,jE pistons,Toda B/C spec cams,JUN valve train...Chipped ECU to its specs,Lighten flywheel,Lighten crank pulley,knife edged crank and balanced.cam sprockets, 4-1 headers,exhaust,Big bored throttle body.

 

i was thinking this formula for my b16a

ITR intake manifold
dc 4-1 jdm header
custom 2.75 inch exhaust
Toda spec b, valve retainers, cam sprockets
CTR pistons( maybe ITR )
AEM cai
over bore TB
probably port and polish
and maybe apexi stand alone to tune it.. when i get it all done ( i know someone that can help me tune it

this will take me a few years but i'd be worth it
gotta read more on what over all parts work well together

 

just get a bigger block.

 

Yeah I'm looking for a B18c1 or spec R B18c5 or either B16 turbo+S-ECU ...but how long will a turbocharged B16 last with already 120K miles done??

High hp figures are cool but torque gets the car moving..

 

Ok, try this on for size.

Get a slightly milled b18c1 head with a Skunk2 intake manifold.
Port an Polish
5 angle valve job
Titanium Valve train
Jun cams
HKS Cam Gears
Holley 70mm throttle body
310cc injectors
V-AFC or Better control computer
a NICE 4-1 header JDM or DC JDM Style
Thermal 2.5" exhaust <Do they make it 2.5 or only 2.25 and 3"?>
Race Cat or Straight Pipe

Should be pushing VERY close if not more than 225 at the flywheel, 185 at the wheels on a stock bottom end. B18c1's have a smaller combustion chamber for more compression on the b16a bottom end.

 

from g-speed.com:



That's with no real tuning of the cam gears on the skunk2 cams. If you ran 12:1 compression and the motor was really well-tuned you might be able to hit 200 whp.

 

So, you guys are basically saying there's no way to get 200bhp from a B16 with headwork only?

I was thinking i could get 200bhp with cams, cam gears, retainers, valves, springs and some good tuning.

Let's see, I have 4-2-1 dc header, mugen ecu, intake, FPR, field fuel/vtec controller...I'm guessing i'm around 180bhp.

200bhp couldnt be made with the above items?

 

is the GSR short block to B16a1 head....a bolt on swap? Would this be a bottom end swap if your planning on a turbo later?

 

By bhp, are you talking at the crank? 200 crank hp is about 175 whp...so yeah, that's doable.

 

what i'm doing right now is putting a 92 ls nonvtec in my hf.....should be good for 150 n/a and i was thinkin about a slight build for a 50 shot???? good idea or no???

 

150 n/a with an ls? but why?????