Help needed with MPFI wiring on auto crx
I was reading on fourthgenhatch's website about mpfi wiring, and I'm a little sketchy on the wiring difference since my crx is automatic. Here is the part I'm not getting:
On an automatic car, pin B11 is wired to your shifter position switch, D4. Since you won't be moving that pin to the B12 position, you will need an extra ECU pin and wire to extend into the engine bay. Other than this, the rest of your conversion should be exactly the same.
I know I don't move the B11 pin, so I just add an extra ecu pin and wire in the B12 position. Now do I follow these instructions and move the pin I just installed or what?
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12. If you have wires there de-pin them and pull them out.
-De-pin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything on most cars (see Automatics and Exceptions above).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, de-pin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, de-pin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
Do I just need to move C2 to B12, and put my extra pin/wire in C2's empty spot? Please help I'm a dummy
On an automatic car, pin B11 is wired to your shifter position switch, D4. Since you won't be moving that pin to the B12 position, you will need an extra ECU pin and wire to extend into the engine bay. Other than this, the rest of your conversion should be exactly the same.
I know I don't move the B11 pin, so I just add an extra ecu pin and wire in the B12 position. Now do I follow these instructions and move the pin I just installed or what?
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12. If you have wires there de-pin them and pull them out.
-De-pin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything on most cars (see Automatics and Exceptions above).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, de-pin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, de-pin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
Do I just need to move C2 to B12, and put my extra pin/wire in C2's empty spot? Please help I'm a dummy
LOL - NO
C1 and C2 are your Crank Angle Sensor wires on a DX, BOTH must be moved to their new positions at B10 and B12
C1 and C2 are then open for your brand new Cylinder Position Sensor wires. These go to your distributor.
Checkout http://www.rywire.com, best $160 you'll ever spend.
Oh and are you staying auto?
C1 and C2 are your Crank Angle Sensor wires on a DX, BOTH must be moved to their new positions at B10 and B12
C1 and C2 are then open for your brand new Cylinder Position Sensor wires. These go to your distributor.
Checkout http://www.rywire.com, best $160 you'll ever spend.
Oh and are you staying auto?
So I need to move C2 to B12, and put my extra pin/wire in C2's place and run it to the distributor? Also, where locally can I buy extra ECU pins? I would like to start on the swap this weekend and not have to wait for shipping.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crex23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do I just need to move C2 to B12, and put my extra pin/wire in C2's empty spot? Please help I'm a dummy </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, that's what you need to do.
actually, it depends on which method you are using (cut or switch). if you're using the "cut" method, put the extra pin in B12, if you're using the "switch" method, put it in the C2 position.
my mistake for wording it the way i did. i'll fix that.
you can pick up an ECU plug from a junk yard car, or PM me with your address, and i'll send you an extra pin.
yes, that's what you need to do.
actually, it depends on which method you are using (cut or switch). if you're using the "cut" method, put the extra pin in B12, if you're using the "switch" method, put it in the C2 position. my mistake for wording it the way i did. i'll fix that.
you can pick up an ECU plug from a junk yard car, or PM me with your address, and i'll send you an extra pin.
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FourthGenHatch
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Sep 2, 2003 04:20 AM




