Let me start off by saying I probably started off harder by doing the rear suspension first. I'll rant a bit below, but its all out of my own stupidity.

I've never had so much problems installing a shock/spring combo ever. bilsteins shocks are longer than OEM, and require the upper/lower control arms to be unbolted. (which means brake line unbolting from LCA, and unbolting the rear sway) This gave me the chance to antiseize bolts/lube every bushing, but it was not fun. Usually a simple unbolting of the lower shock bolt, and removal of the rear oem caliper heatshield gives me ample room to work with.

Took me about 3 hours to figure my *** from my elbow. hopefully tommorow the next session will take less than that.

Anyone who has installed these shocks before, I still have one rear corner to do, so if you know of a better way, share on

pictures of the install upcoming in a day or two.

 

It's been a while since my install, but I'm pretty sure I didn't disconnect my rear sway bar. Did you try compressing the shock and fitting it into place before it rebounded? Good luck dude, the results will be worth the effort. What rates did you order?

 

400f 500r

the shocks rebound in a matter of a split second

i'll try not disconnecting the rear sway for the other side. I know that i've already fudged up the loading on the rear sway a bit, as i've changed ride height on one side by 0.1". I dont think the change will be negligable.... but i guess time will tell.

one thing I'm not sure is correct is, the helms state that the LCA bolt that bolts into the frame should be tightened 40 lb ft... seems very "loose" for a bolt that holds tremendous weight.

 

Tom - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1106020

Almost all the suspension mount bolts (and engine mount bolts) are in the 40-45 ft-lb range.

 

I just grab a friend and have them step on the trailing arm/rotor to lower the suspension and it's cake from there.

The rear is much easier than the front.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tom - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1106020

Almost all the suspension mount bolts (and engine mount bolts) are in the 40-45 ft-lb range.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey RJ...thanks for confirming my 1994 helms is still accurate for the suspension bolts

yeah, i saw your write up...and i have to tell you...i think i have it much worse off going with bilsteins...the rear bilsteins are really high clearance...so much more than the oem shocks.

Pretty much needed to disassemble everything. (approx 3 hours per rear side.)

I see you are a bit more fortunate in that you dont have to drop the rear LCA's.


back to do the 2 fronts...i hope its a simple drop/rip off top hat/replace

 

3 hrs per side? you can remove and reinstall the whole suspension in less than half that time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3 hrs per side? you can remove and reinstall the whole suspension in less than half that time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed.. the rears are especially easy..

 

3hrs? when i installed my coilovers, it took me about 3hrs to do all 4 and it was my first time doing it. do you have a service manual?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

agreed.. the rears are especially easy..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well yes....

Except when trying to replace LCA's or Traling arms... getting things to line up "right" always seems to be a royal pain in the ***, even though it only takes about 15 min of jacking and pounding.

 

^ second set of hands is very useful

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well yes....

Except when trying to replace LCA's or Traling arms... getting things to line up "right" always seems to be a royal pain in the ***, even though it only takes about 15 min of jacking and pounding.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never really found the rears to be a problem.. on integras, civics, or preludes.. the fronts are generally the problematic ones for me, and that's only if the entire LCA is released(including the 3 bolts in the subframe).. and even then, it only takes like an hour to an hour and a half..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">second set of hands is very useful </TD></TR></TABLE>

Remember, leverage is your friend. Safely put the car on jack stands. When you have the rear wheel off and your looking at the whole suspension assembly look a little farther back at the construction of the unibody. Recruit a friend to simply use a long piece (4'-7') piece of 3/4" or 1" Steel tubing to create enough force (leverage) to totally decompress the suspension. Use a soft block of wood so you don't bend your rotor or whatever it is you decide to press down apon.

This is scimilar to the method mentioned above with having a friend press down on the rotor, but using a piece of pipe is a whole hell of a lot safer and easier.

I wish I had a picture to show you but I'm sure you will figure it out. Using this method (buddy system) shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes to do the whole car.

Hopefully the other rear will not be as painful and time consuming. Goodluck...and post pics!

 

Bushing stress = bad

Just unbolt the UCA from the trailing arm.

 

i ended up jacking the lca up with a jack to get everything to line up right

anyhow...i dont know how you guys are doing this in record time.

lining up the rear LCA's like RJ said is a PITA -- i wish there was an easier way of doing it

so is hammering off the front brake line brackets

 

spend the few hundred and get a compressor, you will be glad you did

 

You know, of all the bilsteins sports I've installed on ITRs I've never once had to do anything extra.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know, of all the bilsteins sports I've installed on ITRs I've never once had to do anything extra.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

not all of us have personal teleporters to teleport the shock in place

i really cannot imagine putting in the rear bilsteins without unbolting the LCA.

the fronts were so easy!

time spent: 7 hours with rears, 1 hour with fronts

 

fso_BamBam and I have done a full coilover install on a type R... 5 times?

I can do the whole suspension in less than 2 hours. With a friend and the correct tools the whole thing can be done in one hour or less if you feel so motivated.

Use a pry bar to get the clearance you need in the rear as Brandon indicated.

 

It seems to me I remember that somebody always has to stand on the hub to get clearance, but I don't remember ever having to do anything like disconnect the swaybar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems to me I remember that somebody always has to stand on the hub to get clearance, but I don't remember ever having to do anything like disconnect the swaybar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. You can do the same thing with a pry bar.

 

Isn't it nice when you make a n00b thread and someone doesn't come and flame you without giving you any tips or advice?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems to me I remember that somebody always has to stand on the hub to get clearance, but I don't remember ever having to do anything like disconnect the swaybar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's all there is to it.

yes RJ might complain now about the bushings or something but

 

re: bushing stress -- Honestly I think you're putting less stress on a bushing when doing a coilover install than you would be if you go off-track at speed. But that's just a half-baked theory from someone who is not an expert. .RJ might be a mechanical engineer or something.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't it nice when you make a n00b thread and someone doesn't come and flame you without giving you any tips or advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Indeed. Idiots that do that should be banned straight out. There is no need to **** in a good technical thread, particularly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quick6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">re: bushing stress -- Honestly I think you're putting less stress on a bushing when doing a coilover install than you would be if you go off-track at speed. But that's just a half-baked theory from someone who is not an expert. .RJ might be a mechanical engineer or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But with the suspension assembled, the amount of deflection allowed isn't as great as it would be when the suspension is partially disassembled.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quick6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Indeed. Idiots that do that should be banned straight out. There is no need to **** in a good technical thread, particularly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So what you're saying is the threadstarter should be banned?