Autopower 4-point rollbar modification...?
Have a question about modifying an Autopower 4-point Race rollbar which I will preface by explaining why I want to change it. Currently my helmet needs to drop around 2.5" Inches to be below the top of the Roll bar with the stock seats. I have kirkey aluminum seats which will be going in, but even then I won't be able to drop them too much or I will not be able to see that well since the dash is so high in the Camaro. I will be removing the headliner and stock seatbelt assemblied from overhead and figured that I could raise the roll bar all the way to the roof and gain maybe 1- 1 1/2" inches of Helmet room from that alone leaving the seating position only needing to drop about 1" or so.
So, my plan is to convert the bolt-in roll bar into a weld-in one by boxing up the rocker panel area and boxing up the wheel well area, then just weld the feet to the boxes. My certified welding brother will be doing all TIG work so I'm good on that front. I'm realy not concerned with the rocker panel boxing; it's the wheel well boxing that I am unsure of. Has anyone had a similar design to this implemented with a rollbar before, or any tips on creating a good support for the rear feet on top of the rear fender sheetmetal? Im thinking the box will need to extend down the side of the fender wells for more support...
The Camaro is mainly used for autocrossing now (currently Street Mod) but I do want to spend more time at the Track with her once she is fixed again (currently resolving drivetrain issues/upgrading drivetrain and upgrading the rear suspension). I'm also thinking of adding onto the rollbar and making a 6 or 8 point cage since I do want to spend more time on track and do an Open Road event. I figure if the rear section is snugged up tight with the roof and properly braced at the rear fender well it will be a good cage rear section.
So, my plan is to convert the bolt-in roll bar into a weld-in one by boxing up the rocker panel area and boxing up the wheel well area, then just weld the feet to the boxes. My certified welding brother will be doing all TIG work so I'm good on that front. I'm realy not concerned with the rocker panel boxing; it's the wheel well boxing that I am unsure of. Has anyone had a similar design to this implemented with a rollbar before, or any tips on creating a good support for the rear feet on top of the rear fender sheetmetal? Im thinking the box will need to extend down the side of the fender wells for more support...
The Camaro is mainly used for autocrossing now (currently Street Mod) but I do want to spend more time at the Track with her once she is fixed again (currently resolving drivetrain issues/upgrading drivetrain and upgrading the rear suspension). I'm also thinking of adding onto the rollbar and making a 6 or 8 point cage since I do want to spend more time on track and do an Open Road event. I figure if the rear section is snugged up tight with the roof and properly braced at the rear fender well it will be a good cage rear section.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vracer111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have a question about modifying an Autopower 4-point Race rollbar which I will preface by explaining why I want to change it. Currently my helmet needs to drop around 2.5" Inches to be below the top of the Roll bar with the stock seats. I have kirkey aluminum seats which will be going in, but even then I won't be able to drop them too much or I will not be able to see that well since the dash is so high in the Camaro. I will be removing the headliner and stock seatbelt assemblied from overhead and figured that I could raise the roll bar all the way to the roof and gain maybe 1- 1 1/2" inches of Helmet room from that alone leaving the seating position only needing to drop about 1" or so.
So, my plan is to convert the bolt-in roll bar into a weld-in one by boxing up the rocker panel area and boxing up the wheel well area, then just weld the feet to the boxes. My certified welding brother will be doing all TIG work so I'm good on that front. I'm realy not concerned with the rocker panel boxing; it's the wheel well boxing that I am unsure of. Has anyone had a similar design to this implemented with a rollbar before, or any tips on creating a good support for the rear feet on top of the rear fender sheetmetal? Im thinking the box will need to extend down the side of the fender wells for more support...
The Camaro is mainly used for autocrossing now (currently Street Mod) but I do want to spend more time at the Track with her once she is fixed again (currently resolving drivetrain issues/upgrading drivetrain and upgrading the rear suspension). I'm also thinking of adding onto the rollbar and making a 6 or 8 point cage since I do want to spend more time on track and do an Open Road event. I figure if the rear section is snugged up tight with the roof and properly braced at the rear fender well it will be a good cage rear section.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll change the angle of the dangle. Err, be careful to measure where the feet go back to the wheel wells, you don't want the main hoop to become non-vertical, and you don't want the wheel well mounts to have to move too far or the angle of the feet will be wrong.

-Chris
So, my plan is to convert the bolt-in roll bar into a weld-in one by boxing up the rocker panel area and boxing up the wheel well area, then just weld the feet to the boxes. My certified welding brother will be doing all TIG work so I'm good on that front. I'm realy not concerned with the rocker panel boxing; it's the wheel well boxing that I am unsure of. Has anyone had a similar design to this implemented with a rollbar before, or any tips on creating a good support for the rear feet on top of the rear fender sheetmetal? Im thinking the box will need to extend down the side of the fender wells for more support...
The Camaro is mainly used for autocrossing now (currently Street Mod) but I do want to spend more time at the Track with her once she is fixed again (currently resolving drivetrain issues/upgrading drivetrain and upgrading the rear suspension). I'm also thinking of adding onto the rollbar and making a 6 or 8 point cage since I do want to spend more time on track and do an Open Road event. I figure if the rear section is snugged up tight with the roof and properly braced at the rear fender well it will be a good cage rear section.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll change the angle of the dangle. Err, be careful to measure where the feet go back to the wheel wells, you don't want the main hoop to become non-vertical, and you don't want the wheel well mounts to have to move too far or the angle of the feet will be wrong.

-Chris
I ran into a situation when I was installing my cage, where the rear tubes were to short. Autopower had (I guess) designed the center hoop to lay back at a bit of an angle, and I wanted it to stand up straight. I lengthened the rear tubes by simply butt welding (I chamfered the mating ends to assure proper penetration) another section of tubing to the original section, carefully grinding the weld, and then welding a 6 inch long sleeve over the joint. I found that the next size larger DOM tubing was a perfect fit over the cage tubing, and since my weld wasn't ground perfectly, I had to tap the sleeve on with a punch. I welded the ends of the sleeve. I can't see any reason why this would not be stronger than the original tube. To weld the tubes together perfectly straight....clamp them inside a piece of angle to tack them.
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JustChou
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jun 28, 2002 04:47 PM




