Hi guys,

I did some WOT tuning today, and after I was done I noticed that smoke was coming out of my valve cover breather. I unscrewed my oil cap with the engine running and the smoke was coming out of the #4 cyl. My last valve adjustment was almost 4 months ago. I'm hoping that it isn't anything serious...I didn't accidentally downshift or anything, I just put it in 3rd gear and did about 6-7 pulls. I also started getting a CEL 16 (fuel system). If my valve lash was out of spec would it cause problems with my injectors too? My temps was at 175-176 when I started and after 5 pulls it rose to about 184-186.

Anyways, I'm gonna let the car sit over night and tomorrow I'm gonna adjust my valves. What valve lash specs do you guys recommend?

EDIT: oh yah, some info on my setup too:

JDM B18C SirG on 7 PSI from a Revhard kit w/ T3/T04E (.63ar/60trim)
stock valves
B18C1 cams
skunk2 valvesprings
CromePRO, Walbro 355lph, 750cc injectors
step-retard
11.5:1 AFR @ 0-3 PSI, 10:1 and 9:1 AFR @ 4-7 PSI

TIA



Modified by BlueShadow at 11:58 PM 6/29/2005

 

are you also running the FMU included in the Revhard kit?
Worst case scenario, ringland ownage.

 

I did the same thing and my rings where dead. I would do a compression/leakdown. That will give you a def answer. Goodluck


edit: guy above me beat me too it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you also running the FMU included in the Revhard kit?
Worst case scenario, ringland ownage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

opps, forgot to mention that in my setup. I'm running CromePRO, Walbro 255lph HP fuel pump, and 750cc injectors.

EDIT: I dont think it could be ringlands...I've never had the temperature go above 175 before. I was thinking the temperature increase along with several freeway pulls may have screwed up my valve clearances. When I took off my oil cap, the exhaust was coming striaght up out of the #4 intake valves. So I'm going to make sure I didn't skip any teeth, and i'm going to redo my valve lash. But I dont know if I should go with the high end or low end of the valve lash specs.


Modified by BlueShadow at 12:28 AM 6/30/2005

 

do a compression test, having incorrect valve clearances most likely will not make your motor smoke like that.

+1 for ringlands.

 

again do a compression test, i think the rule is all your compression should be with in about 5 percent of eachother I might be mistaken but 2-3psi off is ok but yeah if your running stock pistons that may be your problem you dont necessarly have to get the motor hot or run lean to crack the weak stock ringlands, i did it running 8:1 on a rough tune before i built my motor.

 

dude, its ur rings, get over the valve adj issue, that isnt it. your leak down is down the *******, time for rebuild

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">11.5:1 AFR @ 0-3 PSI, 10:1 and 9:1 AFR @ 4-7 PSI</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aren't these AFR's way too rich? You were probably washing your cylinders of all oil at this point.

What was your set retard set at?

 

its blow by, i have a motor with less then 1000 miles on it getting blow-by, as long as you have proper equipment (catch can setup) to let it escape you will be fine

brian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Buzzbomb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aren't these AFR's way too rich? You were probably washing your cylinders of all oil at this point.

What was your set retard set at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was trying to tune my setup under WOT which is why it's so rich. After my runs I turned down the fuel a little, but when I went to see what my new AFR's were gonna be I didn't get a chance to cause of my problem. Here is how my step retard is setup:

0.25* per psi from 0-2 psi
0.50* per psi at 4 psi
0.75* per psi at 5.7 psi
0.85* per psi at 7.5 psi

I'm not ruling out cracked ringlands completely. After I adjust my valves I'll se how the car runs. After I've adjusted them I'm going to do a quick compression test to see what it looks like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was trying to tune my setup under WOT which is why it's so rich. After my runs I turned down the fuel a little, but when I went to see what my new AFR's were gonna be I didn't get a chance to cause of my problem. Here is how my step retard is setup:

0.25* per psi from 0-2 psi
0.50* per psi at 4 psi
0.75* per psi at 5.7 psi
0.85* per psi at 7.5 psi

I'm not ruling out cracked ringlands completely. After I adjust my valves I'll se how the car runs. After I've adjusted them I'm going to do a quick compression test to see what it looks like.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see, you are definiatly on the safe side of tuning. I hope it's not the ringlands. I guess all that's left to do is do the compression test to know for sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm not ruling out cracked ringlands completely. After I adjust my valves I'll se how the car runs. After I've adjusted them I'm going to do a quick compression test to see what it looks like.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you have the compression tester you may want to do that first, it's a whole lot easier than a valve adjustment and will tell you if there's a major problem before you waste your time on the valve job. my $0.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you have the compression tester you may want to do that first, it's a whole lot easier than a valve adjustment and will tell you if there's a major problem before you waste your time on the valve job. my $0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed, do the compression test. Report back and hopefully you'll be fine

 

Hey guys,

I managed to get a second look at my car. I took my plugsand and they were fine, I set #1 to TDC. After a closer look it looks like I may have skipped a teeth. I put the top of the cams to TDC but they weren't quite lining up. Exhaust was turned clockwise a bit, and Intake cam was turned counterclockwisea little. The TDC marking was about 1-2 teeth away (clockwise) from the block marking. I didn't see last night cause it was too dark and I didn't have time to work on it.

I started to do work on it to reset my timing back to normal, but it's noon time and it was getting hot as ****. So I'm gonna put off working on the car until it gets cooler out. I did end up getting a compression tester, and I'm gonna check my comp as soon as I reset my timing.

BTW does anyone know which fuse I pull on a CRX so that it wont spray fuel while I crank? should I pull the ALT/SOLENOID fuse or something else? there isn't a fuse that specifically say "fuel system" or anything like that.

TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, its ur rings, get over the valve adj issue, that isnt it. your leak down is down the *******, time for rebuild</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is it that when someone says they have smoke out the valve cover, everyone cries out "it's your rings, time to rebuild!" It's blow-by people. It's NORMAL.

 

lol..... yeah the motor must be completely trash at the slightest hint of crankcase pressure, care to sell it to me for cheap?

How can you tell which cylinder the "smoke" is coming from when simply looking in the oil cap hole? WTF?

Do a leak down test/ end thread.

 

i would only say bad ringlands if your car felt like it was running on 3 cylenders and lots of white smoke came out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol..... yeah the motor must be completely trash at the slightest hint of crankcase pressure, care to sell it to me for cheap?

How can you tell which cylinder the "smoke" is coming from when simply looking in the oil cap hole? WTF?

Do a leak down test/ end thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I opened the oil cap and saw a plume of smoke exiting each intake valve on the #4 cyl. Obviously I couldn't see the other cylinders, but I'm guessing that they are probably smoking too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi guys,

I did some WOT tuning today, and after I was done I noticed that smoke was coming out of my valve cover breather. I unscrewed my oil cap with the engine running and the smoke was coming out of the #4 cyl.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can you tell which cylinder it is coming out by observing through the oil filler hole?

 

I got a chance to work on the car again. I took the VC off and checked my valve clearances just for the hell of it, and #1 and #4 were out of spec. I reset my timing belt and camshafts to TDC. But before I did anything with the valves I hooked up my compression tester. Here are my readings:

COMPRESSION TEST RESULTS:
cylinders 1-2-3-4 = 120-210-210-90

Did my valve lash just for the hell of it, and it compression results were still the same. I started the car up after bolting everything back down, and smoke was still coming out of the valve cover breather, but the car drives better then it did last night. When driving I hear a ticking/flapping sounds, which seems to be coming from the driver side of the motor. It's probably the valves...best way I can describe the sounds is it sounds like a bicycle with a card in the spokes, hehehe.

Anyways, do you guys think that these comp test results would indicate bent valve(s) on the #1 and 4 cyls? I''ll probably put the car in the shop next week and remove the head to see whatthe valves look like. Before I do that do you guys think I should get a leakdown test, or should I not worry about that since I'm gonna be taking off the head anyways? I'll probably buy some valves from one of our sponsors and install them in place of my current valves, or maybe I'll just find a set of used B series valves in the FS section. I'm also trying to see if I can find the time to take the whole motor out and just having it built.

EDIT: one thing I forgot to mention that when I as taking it for a test drive after doing my compression test and valve adjust I got on the throttle hard from 2K-3.5K RPM's in 2nd gear. Through my mirror I saw some smoke coming out my tailpipe.

so what do you guys think of my results?




Modified by BlueShadow at 9:00 PM 6/30/2005

 

Why not do a leak down test first? It will let you know if its the valves or ringlands.

 

Well the results definintly aren't good . Yank the head off and see what is going on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not do a leak down test first? It will let you know if its the valves or ringlands.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cause the compression tester cost less, hehehe. Seriously though, I thought that most people say to get a compression test first then a leakdown test. But come to think of it, I guess you would only do that if you didn't know anything was wrong to begin with. I might go to my hobby shop and see if they have a leakdown tester. They had one at my local NAPA, but I'm not sure how you use one of them.


For a leakdown test how do you tell if it's the rings or ringlands though? I think I remember reading if it's an intake valve you'll hear it in your IM side. If it's an exhaust valve yo hear it out your tailpipe. But what's the sign that its bad rings/ringlands?

TIA

 

You will hear it through your oil fill hole.

 

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about just getting my block and head worked on in the next few weeks. At first I was thinking about getting it sleeved, but then I started thinking about just getting pistons and rods.

I was gonna do the following:

HEAD WORK
-replace valves (if they are bent) probably go with Supertech valves
-replace valve guides (if they are bad)
-check specs and clearances on the head
-resurfaced
-valve job & cleaning
-assemble head
*Right now my skunk2 valvesprings and camgears are the only thing aftermarket on the head*
-what headgasket should I go with?

BLOCK WORK
-going slightly overbored and honed
-9:1 pistons--was thinking about CP pistons
-Rods--was thinking about Eagle or maybe Pauter rods
-ARP rod bolts (I already have ARP head studs on the way)
-OEM bearings--or should I just go with ACL bearings?
-new OEM oil pump
-new OEM water pump
-new oil seals
-hot tank
-crankshaft micropolish

I thought about getting a blockguard, but then I decided to either stick with the stock sleeves or just resleeve it. Do you guys think that setup would be good for 300-400WHP? I know that the ringlands are usually the weakest link. Since I'll be fixing that with some forged pistons the next weakest link should be the sleeves. I'm gonna be tuning it myself, and I'm I dont like to tune aggressively. My step retard will stay the same, and I'll just focus on AFR tuning.

What do you guys think?
TIA



Modified by BlueShadow at 10:06 PM 7/1/2005