The Kosei wheels that we got for the Golf before the Summit race have a somewhat restricted recess around the lug hole. We asked TireRack to send open-ended lug nuts (M12x1.5), which they did, but they have a 19mm hex - which is too big for an impact socket to get all the way onto the nut during wheel changes.

We - of course - scratched up my pretty new wheels but didn't have any actual failures (of nut or torque), so I need to find a solution. Does anyone know of an open-ended, taper-seat lug nut in that thread pitch, with a 17mm hex so we can get a socket on them correctly? The spherical ones that I have for my OE wheels are 17mm but I'm coming up short finding a solution to this problem...

Thanks in advance!

K

 

How much stud do you have sticking out from the wheel? When I ordered my K-1s from Tire Rack they came with some black 17mm long steel lug nuts (about twice the length of stock).

 

We have more stud than necessary, all things considered.



Note here that you can't even see the lug nuts with this style of stock alloy, so you have some idea how much we have poking out.

With the 225 Hoosiers, we have enough width that we use up pretty much all of the IT-legal track without much spacer - 10mm in front and ~6 in back. That's about the minimum in front to keep the inside sidewalls off of the coilover threads.

How deep are those nuts?

K

 

not deep enough for that

 

I'm even thinking about spinning the ends off of closed nuts on a lathe, if I can't find open ones.

K

 

I had a similar problem with my Team Dynamics wheels (ask Gregg ) and I ended up buying some pimpy Skunk2 lug nutzors - they are much longer and give you enough purchase to torque them down safely with the 19mm.
Oh, and they will save you some major unsprung, rotating mass too, y0

At least, if they don't work for you, they should be easy to resell to a ricer. Like me.

 

Can you use a thin wall non-impact socket? I have an impact 1/2 to 3/8 adapter that I can put on a non-impact 3/8 19mm long socket and it works fine on my Borbets Type H's using an impact gun (sounds like these wheels have the same issue as you are experiencing but maybe not??).

 

I also run Kosei K1 TS wheels. I had my frind that has a wheel shop special order me 20 open ended lug nuts that are 17mm and works very well. Let me know if u need and i can get him to order you some too.

 

Call Tom Fowler at OPM and find out what lugnuts they use on all their cars w/ the Team Dynamics wheels. It sounds like what you need is exactly what they use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call Tom Fowler at OPM and find out what lugnuts they use on all their cars w/ the Team Dynamics wheels. It sounds like what you need is exactly what they use.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Seems like whenever I borrow an impact from them it has a 17 socket on it.

 

Skunk2 lugnuts here..... work great for the recessed holes in my Team dynamics and ATS comp lite wheels And they are "impact friendly"

 

A regular (non-impact driver) six point 19MM deep socket works fine. I've used one for a couple of years on my Team Dynamics wheels, which won't accomodate an impact driver socket. Worked on the stock studs and now on the ARP extended ones.

Edit: Or, Prestige Wheels sells 17MM nuts

http://www.prestigewheel.com/c...=5505

 

Well, dang. I SWEAR that I checked Prestige! Thanks, Geezer.

So, Skunk2 aluminum alloy nuts actually stand up to impact guns??

K

 

Geezer beat me to it...

 

About the skunk nuts (lol): The set I had was 17mm, but it had a very wide seat that wouldn't fit inside the recesses of a lot of aftermarket wheels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk2 lugnuts here..... work great for the recessed holes in my Team dynamics and ATS comp lite wheels And they are "impact friendly"</TD></TR></TABLE>
and they are 19mm. Reading comprehension 0wnz j00r azz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elgorey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and they are 19mm. Reading comprehension 0wnz j00r azz</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dummy, the lugnut sticks out far enough that you can easily get a 19mm impact socket on it

Dont hate on my ricer lugz!

 

You kids settle down, now. So DO they stand up to 90# of impact torque?

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You kids settle down, now. So DO they stand up to 90# of impact torque?

K</TD></TR></TABLE>

Muy gun is rated at 220 ft-lbs - never really had a problem at all.... i did strip one of them out last year, but i'm not sure if it was my own stupidity (most likely) or some problem with the lug. They have been impacted on/off so many times I couldnt even count, I kept them for the new car.

The bonus w/ alum lugs in my eyes is that you will strip out a lugnut before you ever harm a stud, which is a real pain if you manage to do it to the front of a honda.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dummy, the lugnut sticks out far enough that you can easily get a 19mm impact socket on it </TD></TR></TABLE>
well alrighty then.

I have the much cheaper $45 c-west version of the same lugs.
They have handled heavy impacting from my IR 650 lb wrench just fine, although Ive rounded the outer edges of a couple because the socket wasnt all the way on and I stripped 2 because im a dummy. I replaced those 2 with the skunk2s, and would agree that they seem to be slightly higher quality, but much more expensive

 

This may sound real cheep but Harbor freight has a great this wall set of 17-19-22 mm sockets. They are very thin and quite strong.
I too have a set of those same wheels..
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...40036
The covers come off and the socket wall is very thin...

 

Oh did i mention that they are $10 a set ???? hell at that price we loose them all the time at the track and dont care..

 

Definitely not a cheap solution, but here's one option.

http://www.turnermotorsport.co...40038

They don't list the thread pitch, but the matching studs (to do a stud conversion) are 12x1.5

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rene M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may sound real cheep but Harbor freight has a great this wall set of 17-19-22 mm sockets. They are very thin and quite strong.
I too have a set of those same wheels..
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...40036
The covers come off and the socket wall is very thin...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only problem with those is that they don't entirely fit over longer lugnuts. For example, on my Volk lugnuts, these sockets only slip about 1/2 way over them. So, I have wear marks right in them middle of the nut. Plus, I'm kinda scared that torquing on the top half of the nut only might cause some breakage.

 

Kirk:
Unless I am really mistaken-use a standard deep 19mm Craftsman socket. This assumes that the impact wrench is not some monster 300ft lb job. That is what I'm using with the Milwaukee and it works fine.
Another idea would be the McGard spline drive lug nuts. I think you can remove the top of it and the spline tool will fit any standard 13/16's or 19mm socket. This also works for us on our CRX and with several different impact tools.