I hate Emissions.

All I wanted to do this summer was perhaps race for once.

No matter what I do, I can not pass HCs. I've leaned the crap out of the car (16:1 at cruise on my wideband), ran straight 85, advanced the timing 3 degrees, and it is still double the limits. The limits are 2.5 for my car, and I keep putting out 5.8. A perfectly working cat is in place, and it's even leaned out so much, that it's almost failing Nox. I've thought about putting Acetone in, but I don't think thats going to help reduce it 100%.

...Anyone?

Seriously thinking about selling my car

 

Put another (additional) cat in...

 

My setup is:

Fully Built 84mm GSR, running Hondata and 240cc injectors. I advanced the timing because of the 9:1 compression, and larger bore.

I'm thinking about putting an additional cat in...

 

Why not just remove the turbo, get it tested, and then put the turbo back in? That's what I do, once every 2 years.

 

hmm... I'd burn a stock GSR map in hondata... if it runs too lean just increase fuel pressure. Then you know it's not the tuning I guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haberdasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just remove the turbo, get it tested, and then put the turbo back in? That's what I do, once every 2 years.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is WITHOUT my turbo setup.

Just a straight header running into a 2.5" cat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm... I'd burn a stock GSR map in hondata... if it runs too lean just increase fuel pressure. Then you know it's not the tuning I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly what I'm running. Stock GSR map, with only the timing advaced for the larger bore/low compression.

 

Would burning oil cause an increase in HCs? Or does it only pick up unburnt or partially burnt fuel?

 

What do the CO #'s look like? Was the high HC at idle...2500rpm?

Minimal HC output is around 15-16:1 and since you said that is where you were at on the WB, maybe you've got a miss going on. Decent CO #'s + high HC #'s is sometimes a miss.

What do your plugs look like?

 

hmm, try some of that guarnteed to past stuff. or cheat... e-cut out y0

 

yeah are you running new, stock heat range plugs? with factory gap?

 

put in NGK 5's and RETARD the timing......advancing it makes HC and NOX worse.....

good luck

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1283824

about 5 or 6 posts down I gave some options that work in most states

 

Yeah, I'm running stock NGKs.

The HCs are really bad at idle, and low speed. Once the car was up to 60mph ish in load, the HCs came down to normal.

How does Retarding the timing reduce nox and HC? retarding the timing will just increase the combustion temperatures and I would think increase both...But I dunno?

 

i also thought that advanced timing increases HCs, might be worth a try atleast. I know one of them is very sensitive to ignition timing. back when emissions were in my area, we retarded timing on a car back to stock, had dizzy at 19 and boom passed perfectly.

 

Advancing timing at idle will reduce HCs because the burn starts earlier so there is more time for complete combustion. But adding timing also increases NOx.

You very well may have slight misfire at idle... run 14.7:1 in closed loop at idle. with 16:1 afr my gsr will miss at idle. Also, make sure your car is HOT when they test it. The cat doesn't work unless it's hot. So make a few 0-90 runs on the way over to the smog shop

 

Bryson, I have heard something about this before here in CO where if you spend over a certin amount rgetting it repaired you get a waiver. Look into that... if it is indeed true in Denver and you need a reciept, PM me.

Do you still have you stock motor?

 

Well, I just got off the phone with a technical inspector, and he said that the car seems to be running right (since I have such low CO emissions), but the HCs are so high. He said that I'm either leaking fuel at the tank, or that my evaporatative system isn't working correctly (which kinda makes sense since I don't have the purge valve connected).

I guess I'll get that purge valve installed, and double check the charcol canister lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bryson, I have heard something about this before here in CO where if you spend over a certin amount rgetting it repaired you get a waiver. Look into that... if it is indeed true in Denver and you need a reciept, PM me.

Do you still have you stock motor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If it doesn't pass soon, I might ahve to do that. I would have to pay a shop 750 bucks in order to be issued a waiver...

 

I'm thinking he meant that if your EVAP system wasn't working 'properly', then you would have had it hooked up and the valve would have been faulty allowing constant purge of the EVAP canister. Or...do you have it hooked up but without the purge valve inline? Yeah - get it installed.

And for the hell of it, doing some Googling has led to a few pages mentioning crevice volume - the area between the top ring land and top of piston - which accounts for a large amount of trapped HC's. They also mention that at high engine speeds, it disappears as there isn't enough time for them to settle in. You seem to exhibit the same characteristics and also have low compression pistons, so...long shot...figured I'd throw it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If it doesn't pass soon, I might ahve to do that. I would have to pay a shop 750 bucks in order to be issued a waiver... </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you read my post you don't "have" to spend $750, just get a reciept for it....get it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking he meant that if your EVAP system wasn't working 'properly', then you would have had it hooked up and the valve would have been faulty allowing constant purge of the EVAP canister. Or...do you have it hooked up but without the purge valve inline? Yeah - get it installed.

And for the hell of it, doing some Googling has led to a few pages mentioning crevice volume - the area between the top ring land and top of piston - which accounts for a large amount of trapped HC's. They also mention that at high engine speeds, it disappears as there isn't enough time for them to settle in. You seem to exhibit the same characteristics and also have low compression pistons, so...long shot...figured I'd throw it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I meant, is he said that it could be a faulty evap system...(I didn't tell him this...) But I don't even have the Purge solenoid connected. I thought I would have been better off with it not connected but I guess not. I wonder if that would be enough to make it 100% more than the limits.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you read my post you don't "have" to spend $750, just get a reciept for it....get it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I understood that. I will definetly look into that if my car fails again with the Evap system connected.

 

I found this on waivers in colorado.
http://www.aircarecolorado.com/waivers.htm

We have the same thing in Texas, I did not know this...

 

have you tried it on your stock ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried it on your stock ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, technically this would be my stock ecu. P28 with stock GSR maps.

 

I've read on here that running more than 14.7 while leaner actually increases the HO. Which is why manufacturers run 14.7 and not something higher which would produce better gas mileage.