I'm currently running 600f/800r on my H1 car, and apparently it's too soft. I'm going to move the 800lb springs to the front, but I'm not sure what to buy for the rears. Corey had suggested 1200, but I wasn't sure if that was too much of a change. The car is pushing a bit right now with the current rates, so I wouldn't mind stiffening up the rear a bit in relation to the front.

For those willing to confess their set ups, what rates are the other H1 Civics running?

PLEASE do not reply with the rates you run on your auto-x Civic, or a daily driver. I'm talking about full race, non street legal, Honda Challenge H1 cars only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm currently running 600f/800r on my H1 car, and apparently it's too soft. I'm going to move the 800lb springs to the front, but I'm not sure what to buy for the rears. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's seems quite low for a fwd race car but I am not sure for the hatches what's best. On my Integra I run 900/1300. I know at one point that the RealTime guys were running 1100/1700 on their old Integras in SWC.

Regards,

Jon

 

16k Front/ 20k rear TEIN RE + TEIN Race Springs on EK w/B18CR

205/17 TOYO RA-1's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm currently running 600f/800r on my H1 car, and apparently it's too soft. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what makes you think the car is too soft? are you bottoming out? or is there something else that pushes you to change the rates? there are alot of options that i would work with untill i made THAT huge of a rate change.

Tire Pressures?
Sway bars?
damper settings?

 

At least if you go to 1200#, it should be easy to notice the change.

K

 

what if my 93 civic autocross car has a stiffer suspension then your roadrace car currently does?

i'm running 850/750 right now and i'll be testing some 1k and 1.2k rear springs soon. the ONLY reason i'm looking at those rear spring rates is because i want to get rid of the rear swaybar. i would be softer on the front spring if i was running the gsr/itr front bar i was running last year. with the stock bar i get too much chassis roll, thus the higher spring rates. if you aren't running any front bar at all you should probably be looking at 1000lb front springs too. of course, there is no reason to run without the front bar once you realize that 100lbs of force is 100lbs of force as far as the tire is concerned. it has no idea what generated that force.

to fix your mid corner push you need to run a 205 width rear tire if you don't already. if it still pushes mid corner start dialing out rear camber. half a degree of rear camber with your current setup will free the car up mid corner a lot more then 200lbs/in of additional rear spring.

i know you didn't want the opinion of autocross or daily driven cars, but i know my setup isn't like most other autocross cars. i also know my setup works and would never be described using the words "too soft".

nate

 

It is pretty common Knowledge and openly shared that the springs rates everyone is running is at least 1200 in the rear and it has been our experience that if the front rates are less than 800 then the car will bottom out under a heavy load. Thats what my take is on the whole thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what makes you think the car is too soft?</TD></TR></TABLE>



Matt's car from a few weeks back

Brian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brian*E30 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Matt's car from a few weeks back

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Brian, I was going to go back and find that exact picture. Definately too soft....

So 800/1200 is a logical next step?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FLATOUTRACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's seems quite low for a fwd race car but I am not sure for the hatches what's best. On my Integra I run 900/1300. I know at one point that the RealTime guys were running 1100/1700 on their old Integras in SWC.

Regards,

Jon
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Integra various but similar to the above mentioned
H1 / SPU civic 800f / 800r

What type of dampers are you using? At what rate? At what lenght front and rear?

 

i've never ran over 900's.....even in the hatch....i got plenty of rotation out of it!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've never ran over 900's.....even in the hatch....i got plenty of rotation out of it!!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not talking about rotation so much as I am talking about the obscene body roll, and at Shenandoah, the tires rubbing every time I went over those bumps.

I have recently re-valved race konis on the car right now. Lee took care of it for me, so I'd actually have to defer to him on the maximum spring rates they can support, but I would think that the 1200lb springs on the *rear* wouldn't be a problem.

 

Matt, put your rear springs on the front of your car, and get some 1200# rears.. J00 don't like to listen to me Throw your front swaybar away, its not doing anything. get the biggest swaybar you can find on the back, not sure if Warren sold his full race Saner bar or not..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Matt, put your rear springs on the front of your car, and get some 1200# rears.. J00 don't like to listen to me Throw your front swaybar away, its not doing anything. get the biggest swaybar you can find on the back, not sure if Warren sold his full race Saner bar or not..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I AM listening to you Corey, I said that in my first post. I just thought it would be smart to get multiple opinions from other similar cars.

The front sway is already off, the rear is a stock ITR.

Of course this is all secondary to finding out why the car won't hold an alignment, and whether I broke the steering rack or not....

 

REALLY stupid question, but since I'm at work, I don't have the info. What height/diameter spring do I need?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The front sway is already off, the rear is a stock ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whiteline makes an adjustable 24mm bar - I'm looking into it right now, I'll let you know what I find out. Probably be about $190 and 4-5 week wait.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">REALLY stupid question, but since I'm at work, I don't have the info. What height/diameter spring do I need?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If its GC sleeves, then 2.5" ID and you'll probably want a 6" length. You can do 7" though as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whiteline makes an adjustable 24mm bar - I'm looking into it right now, I'll let you know what I find out. Probably be about $190 and 4-5 week wait.

If its GC sleeves, then 2.5" ID and you'll probably want a 6" length. You can do 7" though as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>


How does that whiteline bar compare to the mugen 26mm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How does that whiteline bar compare to the mugen 26mm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You lost me here ken.

One is 24mm and adjustable, the other is 26mm and not adjustable. Whats to compare?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One is 24mm and adjustable, the other is 26mm and not adjustable. Whats to compare?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which is prettier?

 

either one after you send it to the paint shop and have it sprayed PY

 

850# front w/stock bar.
1,200# rear w/22mm Comptech bar.

But then again the Sol is a little weird in the way it reacts (might be the 8" or so shorter wheelbase).

 

I vary spring rate but use 550 to 750 in the front and 900 to 1100 in the rear.

I'm surprise to hear that Realtime use that much on their old Integra. Cause when I saw it they used 750 in the front and 1200 in the rear.

Taz Harvey's old car has 650 front and 1200 rear.

 

good stuff. thanks everybody.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The front sway is already off, the rear is a stock ITR.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok....and you're bitching about body-roll? If you want to limit body roll then put the front anti-sway bar back on.

It seems a lot of ppl are encouraging this ham-fisted approach to car tunning, and I know I'm guilty of it at times as well, but the advice being given just seems fairly radical.

Put the front sway back on, put a bigger rear sway bar and tune from there. If it still rolls over too much (what's the static ride-height, btw?) then play with the springs. You want the springs as soft as possible, not the other way around.


Modified by El Pollo Diablo at 12:42 PM 6/27/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok....and you're bitching about body-roll? If you want to limit body roll then put the front anti-sway bar back on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously! They don't call them anti-roll bars for nothing.

I am running 700# front springs on my much heavier H3 GSR with the stock front bar and it doesn't wallow over anywhere near as much as your is in that pic!