Need some stereo system help
OK, to sum it all up, my box in my trunk slide around all the time and the other night my remote wire ripped out of my amp... didnt think anything of it until when i reconnected it and nothing worked.
i figured it was a fuse blown in the amp or at the power wire... but ive checked them and they look fine.
The problem is my amp not getting power. It doesnt light up so thats why i figure its not getting power. But i really dont know enough about amps and what not to tell whats wrong
heres the amp i have
http://jbl.com/car/products/pr...t=AMP
i figured it was a fuse blown in the amp or at the power wire... but ive checked them and they look fine.
The problem is my amp not getting power. It doesnt light up so thats why i figure its not getting power. But i really dont know enough about amps and what not to tell whats wrong
heres the amp i have
http://jbl.com/car/products/pr...t=AMP
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, to sum it all up, my box in my trunk slide around all the time and the other night my remote wire ripped out of my amp... didnt think anything of it until when i reconnected it and nothing worked.
i figured it was a fuse blown in the amp or at the power wire... but ive checked them and they look fine.
The problem is my amp not getting power. It doesnt light up so thats why i figure its not getting power. But i really dont know enough about amps and what not to tell whats wrong
heres the amp i have
http://jbl.com/car/products/pr...t=AMP</TD></TR></TABLE> How about the power and ground wires for the amp, are they still good? You really need a multimeter, DVM or at least a test light to check if there is power on the amps power lead, and the turn on lead, and the meter or DVM to test the ground. One thing you can try is make a "jumper" out of a short piece of wire, any wire, and jump from the amps pos. (+) term. to the amps trigger term. this will tell you if there is a problem with the trigger wire, [this will only work if the amps power and ground are good] if the trigger lead shorted out when it came off the amp, it may have blown a diode in the HU so there will be no power on it when you turn on the HU, so the amp will not turn on, that is why you try the "jumper", if the amp comes on, then you know the problem is the trigger lead.94
i figured it was a fuse blown in the amp or at the power wire... but ive checked them and they look fine.
The problem is my amp not getting power. It doesnt light up so thats why i figure its not getting power. But i really dont know enough about amps and what not to tell whats wrong
heres the amp i have
http://jbl.com/car/products/pr...t=AMP</TD></TR></TABLE> How about the power and ground wires for the amp, are they still good? You really need a multimeter, DVM or at least a test light to check if there is power on the amps power lead, and the turn on lead, and the meter or DVM to test the ground. One thing you can try is make a "jumper" out of a short piece of wire, any wire, and jump from the amps pos. (+) term. to the amps trigger term. this will tell you if there is a problem with the trigger wire, [this will only work if the amps power and ground are good] if the trigger lead shorted out when it came off the amp, it may have blown a diode in the HU so there will be no power on it when you turn on the HU, so the amp will not turn on, that is why you try the "jumper", if the amp comes on, then you know the problem is the trigger lead.94
I appreciate the replies thus far... I have managed to make a bit of progress. I tested the ground and power, it reads about 13-14. The remote wire was indeed the problem child, when i was checking the remote wire for power on the amp, holding one side to ground into the amp and touching the other to remote connection on the amp, my red light on my amp comes on and then switches to green after a few seconds. The meter was completing a circuit everytime i touched the two down. So i figured just for temp solutions use a piece of wire to direct connect the power to the remote, bypassing the amp all together. Not a good solution but it works for now, the only down side is the amp stays on with or without keys in the ignition, i need to find a better solution.
Well when all else fails you can always change your remote turn on lead (blue white at radio harness) over to switched 12 volts (aka ignition) all you would have to do is reconnect the remote wire at the amp, pull out your deck and clip the remote wire free and then reconnect it to the red wire on the harness. This will turn the amp on and off with the key again. In a fix it will work, the only draw back to this is that if you have the key in the on position and turn your radio off you sometimes will get a hum through the subs. Hope that it helps.
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