I know this question has been debated many times.Just wanted to hear from your personal experiences,especially when compared at the dyno.Some guys tell me that a heavier flywheel will maintain the torque at the high rpm,a lightened flywheel will cause torque to dip drastically after a certain rpm.Is this true?Theories on momentum,acceleration,force,mass and inertia are welcome.

 

i just bought but havent installed yet a 8lb flywheel, i'd like to know also

 

I had my clutch dig into my fw and mess it up pretty bad. So i took it and had it lightened and balanced(i cant remember how much...but it was a good bit). I was impressed with how much faster it rev'd, but it felt like it killed top end. I now have a stocker back on there and i couldnt be happier with it.

And im in no way saying that the stock one will always be better. Im sure there are setups that would greatly benefit from a light one. It would prolly be best to match it to your powerband. Ill bet that a highly modified b16 that only has topend would benefit from it more than a bolt on LS. Choose whatever one will better compliment your powerband

 

It really depends on what you want to do with the car. I generally prefer lightened Exedy units and like the feel. It is also good to mate one with a clutch with some grip that will snap fast. It will fall off as quickly as it revs so you want to be able to catch it.

I like the way they get through the wet towel Honda bottom end of the rev range on daily street apps. where you spend alot of your time.

 

A light flywheel will work better on a lighter car....An 8 lb flywheel will work better in a crx than an accord or prelude....it depends on what you want....

 

I have a 7.5 lb fidanza and love it. It gets through the revs alot faster which in turn casues you to get to you power faster. I mean before vtec it is nno problem anymore as it just gets right to vtec really fast. Also, I have had no problem with a lacking high end since it has been installed. You just have to be carefull not to over rev the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the way they get through the wet towel Honda bottom end of the rev range on daily street apps. where you spend alot of your time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NXLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An 8 lb flywheel will work better in a crx than an accord or prelude</TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldn't agree more, the 12lb in my CRX does very well.

Something people seem to overlook is that the flywheel doesn't affect the amount of power an engine puts out. All it does is affect how fast that engine can accelerate. And the RULE is that for a given amount of power, you can accelerate a smaller mass faster, given the same diameter and all that good stuff. There's really not much to debate on that, it's how it is. The engine will gain RPM faster, and it will also lose it faster, hence the idea that it hurts low end power. You loose the large amount of energy available in a heavy spinning flywheel, so when you dump the clutch at the line, the RPMs drop more than they would with the stock flywheel.

If you had two cars with the same weight, engine, trans, blah blah, with one having a 6 lb flywheel and the other having a 20 lb flywheel, one would probably be more consistant at the starting line (if you're the drag racing sort, which I'm not). But if you started both at 1000 RPM in first gear and floored both cars, you better put your money on the 6 lb flywheel.

The deal about what you want to do with the car is very true. Someone driving to and from work in stop and go traffic will appreciate a flywheel with a little more mass than the guy that trailers his car to the road course.

 

Yes, I will say that between my 8lb flywheel and URSS pullies, my car (prelude), seems to get its stall on simply because the rpms drop so fast when you hit the clutch. The idle cant catch it in time. The effect of those 2 mods has made a black and white difference in the car.

Im hoping that the same h22 in a crx will bhave a little better. (Thats where its going)

 

You may loose a bit of the torque/momentum on a lighter flywheel compared to a heavier one, but the response is great with a lightened flywheel.

 

im using a evolution 11lb flywheel on my 99 si with an ls-v motor no problems here..

 

Hi All,

I am a new user at tis frum, and a new owner of a Honda Civic. I live in Brazil and I have a EG6, Civic 95 VTi Hatch (like an US hatch Si), it has a B16a3, near stock.
I have a CAI made by me, a new chip made by a friend, and removed the catback, and replaced with a 2 1/4 exhaust tube.
I bought a Lightened fltwheel and Clutch Kit from Gripforce.com(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1)

When I show to my mechanic in Brazil(we don't have specilist on Hondas here), he told me that is necessary to umount my motor to rebalance all the moving parts, the pistons, rods and crankshaft with this lightened flywheel and clutch. The question is, this is reallly necessary? Or I can just remve the gearbox, and put the new flywheel and clutch kit and be happy?

Thanks a lot!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gorpobr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi All,

I am a new user at tis frum, and a new owner of a Honda Civic. I live in Brazil and I have a EG6, Civic 95 VTi Hatch (like an US hatch Si), it has a B16a3, near stock.
I have a CAI made by me, a new chip made by a friend, and removed the catback, and replaced with a 2 1/4 exhaust tube.
I bought a Lightened fltwheel and Clutch Kit from Gripforce.com(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1)

When I show to my mechanic in Brazil(we don't have specilist on Hondas here), he told me that is necessary to umount my motor to rebalance all the moving parts, the pistons, rods and crankshaft with this lightened flywheel and clutch. The question is, this is reallly necessary? Or I can just remve the gearbox, and put the new flywheel and clutch kit and be happy?

Thanks a lot!</TD></TR></TABLE>

tell your mechanic hes an idiot

just put the flywheel and clutch on, break in the clutch for about 500 miles and go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncivic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tell your mechanic hes an idiot </TD></TR></TABLE>

If Honda motors were externally balanced, like some American engines, this would be true, because you would be changing the weight of the counterbalance on the flywheel that balances the motor. But Honda motors are internally balanced, the crank has counterbalances for the rods and pistons. The flywheels is zero balanced, so replacing it with another flywheel that has been zero balanced doesn't change anything.

 

A little off the subject, but is it REALLY nessicary to replace the clutch along with teh flywheel?

 

you dont have to replace it unless it has to be turned down past safe limits.. AKA Resurfaced..

but it is a good idea to upgrade when doing it since its right there you know

 

Thanks for the reply! I will just put it on, but about break in the clutch, I have another car with ceramic clutch and never break in the clutch, i just replaced and accelerate the car normally! Could yuo guys explain in few words how to break in a clutch and the problems if I don´´t do it?

And about this flywheel and clutch kit I bought, this is a good one? It will be reliable and efficient? Has anyone used this?

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gorpobr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply! I will just put it on, but about break in the clutch, I have another car with ceramic clutch and never break in the clutch, i just replaced and accelerate the car normally! Could yuo guys explain in few words how to break in a clutch and the problems if I don´´t do it?

And about this flywheel and clutch kit I bought, this is a good one? It will be reliable and efficient? Has anyone used this?

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some people say 100 miles some say 500. Its a good idea to break everything in. Its not a bad idea. I say anywhere between 100 to 500 but doesn't hurt to wait the 500. Not breaking the clutch in can take some of it's "life" away. Your mechanic is probaly just tryin to make a extra couple bucks by "balancing everything"

 

Ok, I talked with him yesterday and at the end of this week or the other I will put the lightened flywheel and clutch kit. I don't think anything bad about my mechanic, just because we don't have much Modified Hondas for performance here, it's very dificult to buy original parts, imagine aftermarket or performance parts! We have only d15, d16, b16(rare) and b20(CRV, very rare),'I have to import all the parts byself. The few performance hondas here is only turbocharged, without forged parts, special colectors and injectors. If they have something is imported or custom home made.
This is the reason that I bought these parts from ebay, at this point, I will start to watch the sell topic, trying to buy good used parts from you.
And about this purchase, could you make opinions about this??? I bought a Lightened fltwheel and Clutch Kit from Gripforce.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1

Thanks!

 

What i don't get is that a lighter flywheel seems like it would only really help when you are revving the motor either with the clutch pedal pushed in (between shifts)or with the tranny in neutral, right? Because when the flywheel and clutch are in contact with each other, then i don't think that the motor would notice a ~10lb weight difference (yea, i know its unsprung weight) when it is trying to turn the tranny, axles, wheels, rotors, tires, etc. along with fighting physical limitations like acceleration, wind drag, etc. I can understand where a lighter flywheel helps with rev-matching between shifts, but that is about it. please correct me if i'm wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gorpobr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And about this purchase, could you make opinions about this??? I bought a Lightened fltwheel and Clutch Kit from Gripforce.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

other than a stage 3 clutch being a little overkill for a (i'm assuming pretty stock) B16 and it doesn't look like the flywheel has a replaceable friction surface, it looks ok i guess.

 

Because flywheel reaches very high rpm, then its weight is important relative to the total forces the engines acting against when trying to accelerate, but only in the early gears 1st and 2nd where gear ratio's minimise external load on engine.

Cant remember where i read it but a pound (i think it was, may be wrong with the unit tho) off the diameter of a flywheel had the same effect as 100kg off total weight of car in 1st gear, then something like 40kg in 2nd etc till only a few kg in 5th. Sorry i cant remeber exactly what the numbers were but can see the idea.

A fly with 5lb less wieght doesnt mean 5lb off the diameter of it tho , may be equivalent to 0.5- 2 lb off the diameter (im just guessing).

Flywheel is a enegy storage device used to smooth delivery of power just like a capacitor in electronics, a smaller cap charges quicker and discharges quicker, which gives a idea of how a light fly performs on a circuit when ur throttling on and off alot..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NXLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I will say that between my 8lb flywheel and URSS pullies, my car (prelude), seems to get its stall on simply because the rpms drop so fast when you hit the clutch. The idle cant catch it in time. The effect of those 2 mods has made a black and white difference in the car.

Im hoping that the same h22 in a crx will bhave a little better. (Thats where its going)</TD></TR></TABLE>

what did you do to resolve that? did you turn up the idle rpms, like 1000 instead of 750 or so? what would help in this case?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolDon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think that the motor would notice a ~10lb weight difference (yea, i know its unsprung weight)</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not just unsprung weight, it's rotational weight. Just think about it, like you said, the motor has to accellerate the trans, diff, axles, rotors, wheels, tires... Taking weight off of those things improves the acceleration, and it's not just due to the 10 lbs off the unsprung weight of the car. You can do the math, but it's not worth the time. A motor with a lighter flywheel climbs rpms faster than one with a heavier one, and it's even more noticable in our little engines with less low end torque. I find that the faster revving helps to get out of the lower rpms where there's not as much oomph, and up to the "fun range".

 

I will test in my stock motor next week and reply to all my impressions about this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolDon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What i don't get is that a lighter flywheel seems like it would only really help when you are revving the motor either with the clutch pedal pushed in (between shifts)or with the tranny in neutral, right? Because when the flywheel and clutch are in contact with each other, then i don't think that the motor would notice a ~10lb weight difference (yea, i know its unsprung weight) when it is trying to turn the tranny, axles, wheels, rotors, tires, etc. along with fighting physical limitations like acceleration, wind drag, etc. I can understand where a lighter flywheel helps with rev-matching between shifts, but that is about it. please correct me if i'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE> Any thoughts on what he said &... Im concerned with top end power loss & stalling out at idle.... i plan on gettin a 12lb. flywheel (h22 in an accord) any thoughts on this...?