K20A-Hondata into ES2 problem
Well, the guy who is supposed to complete my engine swap is delayed by 1 week already...everything is in place...one last problem, and I hope someone can shed some light into it....
When the engine wiring was done, and hondata box installed, the engine ran fine, with a check engine light but revving all the way up to 8500.
Now, the check engine light was fixed, but the car revs until 4000 rpm only...there is like a rev limiter on 4000 rpm...had the box checked, and it was programmed to 8500 rpm. No check engine light at all...no clue also as to what is happening...Any help would be appreciated...thanks!
When the engine wiring was done, and hondata box installed, the engine ran fine, with a check engine light but revving all the way up to 8500.
Now, the check engine light was fixed, but the car revs until 4000 rpm only...there is like a rev limiter on 4000 rpm...had the box checked, and it was programmed to 8500 rpm. No check engine light at all...no clue also as to what is happening...Any help would be appreciated...thanks!
Yup, we drove it, and the limiter is 4000 still...Will check the temp thing...thanks for the info...will let you guys know what happens....
I am just so excited to drive the car, and this suspense is killing me...I already got all the other accessories in...
Shift Light, Recard Typr R seats, Saebelt Seatbelts, Type R Steering Wheel, Gague Cluster, Even up to the 6 speed Type R Shift ****! hahaha!
I am just so excited to drive the car, and this suspense is killing me...I already got all the other accessories in...Shift Light, Recard Typr R seats, Saebelt Seatbelts, Type R Steering Wheel, Gague Cluster, Even up to the 6 speed Type R Shift ****! hahaha!
I have heard the same problem many times.... It is not always the same reason but most of the time, the computer is protecting the engine because it cannot read the water temp or something like that.
There are different ways to go about it.
Here;s an interesting quote
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have had problems with the factory K series engine temp sensor on all of my swaps.There has always been a kink or cut in the wire of the factory K series harness between the ecu and the factory temp sensor,which is located on the side of the head,under the cam sensors.It is a two wire sensor,the wire I have had problems with is the red/wht going from this sensor to the ecu plug "B" pin 8.
I have always had to run a wire straight from the ecu to this sensor to get vtec working properly.This sensor is not for the gauge cluster,it is for the ecu to see what temp the engine is running.
The engine will run fine and throw no check lights (besides for data link) without the temp gauge working.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are different ways to go about it.
Here;s an interesting quote
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have had problems with the factory K series engine temp sensor on all of my swaps.There has always been a kink or cut in the wire of the factory K series harness between the ecu and the factory temp sensor,which is located on the side of the head,under the cam sensors.It is a two wire sensor,the wire I have had problems with is the red/wht going from this sensor to the ecu plug "B" pin 8.
I have always had to run a wire straight from the ecu to this sensor to get vtec working properly.This sensor is not for the gauge cluster,it is for the ecu to see what temp the engine is running.
The engine will run fine and throw no check lights (besides for data link) without the temp gauge working.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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