When reading the bearing code off my block (B18C5), the letters are facing the opposite way from the diagram in the service manual (Toward outside). Am I to assume the letter closest to the pulley side is for that main cap(#1), or the the first letter reading left to right is for the No. 1 like in the manual.

Silly question I know but I dont want to have to order bearings twice.

thx

 

thanks

 

+++

 

im dissapointed honda-tech 8*(

 

it was the same way with my h22 when i was building it. Just flip the letters to face the other way and you will have your numbers. The only thing is if you are building the motor for any high hp, you need to add clearance in the bearings so those letters can basically get thrown out the window. A good rule of thumb is .001 for every inch in diameter (ie. h22 rod journal 1.89", so about .0017-.002 clearance). Also 3 out of 4 of my rods, you couldn't even see the numbers on them, so you may run into the same situation. Check to see if there are any colors left on the bearing sides and you can reuse the same ones (assuming you aren't switching rods) Hope this helps.

 

thanks for the help

not high hp, but it is a roadrace motor so i was going to goto the loose end of the specs.

 

i would say stay around .001 for what you are going to do on rods, and not real sure on your mains diameter but probably around .0015 and you should be good. If you are using thicker oil remember you need more space for it to get in there. A dry sump oil system would be a good idea as well. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just flip the letters to face the other way and you will have your numbers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

flip them how? rotate them all 180 deg or flip them all upside down? hehe

 

flip them around as a hole. Almost like if someone had a stamp and did it upside down. If you are increasing tolorances those codes are only guides. More then likely you will have to mix and match colors to get where you need to be. For example i had all 4's on the block and couldn't read the most of the rod numbers. I did have some color left on the bearings. Most were all brown, and all black for rods and mains. WHen i was done, the mains were all green (with some light micropolishing to get clearances) and rods were green/yellow combo's. Don't forget to have the block checked (align hone, deck, bore, crank straightness, etc) before you put it back togther. Rather then having to take it all back apart when something happens.

 

Im rebuilding my c5 after i dropped a valve, just to JDM ITR pistons, same rods. Not high hp at all. I didn't plan on polishing the crank or doing an align hone. I'm going to balance the rods and pistons, and leave the crank alone. all-nu honda bearings.

You confused me when you said your rods were green/yellow combos...do you mean you use a green and a yellow within the same rod? I noticed the helms chart for rod bearings has two colors listed per box... i thoght that meant it was between the two.... but both?

 

I would recomend at least having the machine shop check the block to make sure everythings within spec. An extra $50 or so can save you alot of money later on and headaches.

So according to the grid if there are 2 colors in there you would need one half bearing of color x, and one half bearing of color y (so xy combo, as opposed to xx or yy for that journal). Honda's tolerances are so tight that just using the wrong half could be the difference between being able to spin the crank and not being able to.

Sorry for confusing you, just that i found out the hard way with sizing bearings and it was a real headache. I must have spent over $200 on different bearings and machine shop services to get what i needed b/c no one could help me. So any help i can give others is worth it since everyone thinks just go by the grid when its not that easy. Basically need to measure and plastiguage a million times, and the grid is just a "guideline" to where you should be.