Doing some work to my girlfriends accord
My gf drives a 95 accord ex and shes leaving the country for a couple weeks and I'm planning on doing a little work for her car since a situation set her back from getting a new car. I'm not planning on dumping a lot of cash into it but somethings I want to fix/make nicer are:
-new head lights (they are fogging)
-replace gold chrome trim on the exterior
-patch up leather seats
-new stearing wheel (chewed up)
-Oil change
-fix slow windows
-install my old subs and amp
-detail
Where can I get the replacement trim and a steering wheel? Also, is the regulator the reason for the window rolling up and down slow? I'm not much of a honda accord guy. I used to own a civic, but moved on into european cars before I could get into modding the civic.
-new head lights (they are fogging)
-replace gold chrome trim on the exterior
-patch up leather seats
-new stearing wheel (chewed up)
-Oil change
-fix slow windows
-install my old subs and amp
-detail
Where can I get the replacement trim and a steering wheel? Also, is the regulator the reason for the window rolling up and down slow? I'm not much of a honda accord guy. I used to own a civic, but moved on into european cars before I could get into modding the civic.
Headlights: $65.00 each from 1aAutoParts.com Manufactured by Eagle Products
Gold Emblem Set: Google search should scare up a sourse (I used College Hill Honda)
Steering Wheel: Locate thru your local salvage yard (they have a locator service), or do an Ebay search.
Slow windows are either window motor or window control module related. Have them looked at b4 you plunk down your $$
Or you can pick up Regultor/motor assemblies from 1aautoparts for $83.00 each side
Gold Emblem Set: Google search should scare up a sourse (I used College Hill Honda)
Steering Wheel: Locate thru your local salvage yard (they have a locator service), or do an Ebay search.
Slow windows are either window motor or window control module related. Have them looked at b4 you plunk down your $$
Or you can pick up Regultor/motor assemblies from 1aautoparts for $83.00 each side
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Poopie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-new stearing wheel (chewed up)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a steering wheel from my totalled 95 Accord EX for sale. If your interested, PM me an offer. A picture of it can be found in my Image Station photo album (link in sig).
Let me know.
-new stearing wheel (chewed up)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a steering wheel from my totalled 95 Accord EX for sale. If your interested, PM me an offer. A picture of it can be found in my Image Station photo album (link in sig).
Let me know.
Thanks for the info p_adams. I'm thinking about getting the one peice head lights off ebay for $150 or so to update the look on the front end a little bit. How is the light output on them?
I went down that long lonely road looking at JDM and projector style headlights and my research indicated that with the exception of the TYC projector sets, most everyone complained of a performance loss using projectors. A customer service rep at one web site actually admitted they were more for "show" than anything else!
I was most pleasantly surprised when I combined new OEM headlamp capsules with either PIAA super whites and then with Sylvania SilverStars. I have more than sufficient lighting and had all manner of glare complaints until I adjusted them correctly!
It all comes down to the slow, insidious sand pitting of the headlight lens that effectly cut my headlight output in half.
That's why DOT forbid headlamp covers in the '70's because polycarbonates (lexan) was not available (all they had was plastic) and the covers would sandblast quickly.
Modified by P_Adams at 11:49 PM 6/25/2005
I was most pleasantly surprised when I combined new OEM headlamp capsules with either PIAA super whites and then with Sylvania SilverStars. I have more than sufficient lighting and had all manner of glare complaints until I adjusted them correctly!
It all comes down to the slow, insidious sand pitting of the headlight lens that effectly cut my headlight output in half.
That's why DOT forbid headlamp covers in the '70's because polycarbonates (lexan) was not available (all they had was plastic) and the covers would sandblast quickly.
Modified by P_Adams at 11:49 PM 6/25/2005
Save yourself the money on the headlights and get some 1500 grit and 2000 grit wet sandpaper, some 3m rubbing compound and some plastix (by meguiars) and clean those headlights up.
Start with the 1500 and use plenty of water and rinse the sandpaper alot. Then when you feel the 1500 is good and done move on to the 2000 and repeat the process. After you get done rinse everything off very well and allow it to dry completely. After the headlights have dried apply some rubbing compound like you do wax and let it haze up then buff it out. Then apply the plastix the way you did the rubbing compound and whiola...new looking headlights.
Doing this will also reduce the pits in the headlights and take out any yellowish or cloudiness in the headlight.
Just a suggestion. As for everything else, touring accord is a good stand up guy
. and have fun!
Start with the 1500 and use plenty of water and rinse the sandpaper alot. Then when you feel the 1500 is good and done move on to the 2000 and repeat the process. After you get done rinse everything off very well and allow it to dry completely. After the headlights have dried apply some rubbing compound like you do wax and let it haze up then buff it out. Then apply the plastix the way you did the rubbing compound and whiola...new looking headlights.
Doing this will also reduce the pits in the headlights and take out any yellowish or cloudiness in the headlight.
Just a suggestion. As for everything else, touring accord is a good stand up guy
. and have fun!Trending Topics
^^^Very good suggestion.
For the windows the first thing to try is cleaning and lubing the run channels.
1) Use a mildly soapy wet rag wrapped around the handle of a toothbrush to clean out the rubber channels that guide the windows up and down.
2) Then take a silicon paste/grease type lubricant and apply it to the channels with a clean rag and the toothbrush.We use a product called Shinetsu.
3) Don't use too much. Doing so will cause them to attract dirt faster and make problems worse.
4) When done the rubber should feel a little greasy to the touch, but not have the stuff coming off on your fingers.
5) Run the windows up and down several times to work it in. The process works best on a warmer day because it soaks in better.
6) If you want to do a really good job, remove the door panels and repeat the process on the lower part of the channels with the window up.
If you do choose to do the lower channels carefully remove and reinstall the plastic sheeting behind the door panel. It is a moisture barrier and does serve a purpose.
Unless her windows make crunchy sounds like they have gravel in them. The regulators are fine. This process done regularly really extends the life of the runchannels and regulators.
For the windows the first thing to try is cleaning and lubing the run channels.
1) Use a mildly soapy wet rag wrapped around the handle of a toothbrush to clean out the rubber channels that guide the windows up and down.
2) Then take a silicon paste/grease type lubricant and apply it to the channels with a clean rag and the toothbrush.We use a product called Shinetsu.
3) Don't use too much. Doing so will cause them to attract dirt faster and make problems worse.
4) When done the rubber should feel a little greasy to the touch, but not have the stuff coming off on your fingers.
5) Run the windows up and down several times to work it in. The process works best on a warmer day because it soaks in better.
6) If you want to do a really good job, remove the door panels and repeat the process on the lower part of the channels with the window up.
If you do choose to do the lower channels carefully remove and reinstall the plastic sheeting behind the door panel. It is a moisture barrier and does serve a purpose.
Unless her windows make crunchy sounds like they have gravel in them. The regulators are fine. This process done regularly really extends the life of the runchannels and regulators.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .ken »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">touring accord is a good stand up guy
. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
trying to get rid of this stuff
. </TD></TR></TABLE>thanks
trying to get rid of this stuff
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