well my friend has a 92 prelude SI and the rings in it went bad so we are going to replace them, my question is can we do this without taking the motor out ? i think we can but maybe i am thinking wrong

Thanks

 

Yes you can...

Just take the head off, drop the pan, pull the pistons out, give it a quick hone, replace the piston rings, and put it all back together.

I did this with a friend a few weeks ago, took us about 6 hours start to finish.

 

thanks

 

why do you need to take the head off?

 

maybe to put the new piston back in from the top. i always see pistons put in from the top of the block not the bottom. maybe im wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> why do you need to take the head off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

to hone the cylinders

 

Honing with the engine in the car?
Maybe I'm not educated in this area, but I've been always thinking, you should use a kind of the special machine to hone therefeore leaving engine in the car restricts the access... What about left metal particles (when doing it with the engine in the car?) after honing (do they actually appear?)

 

With the oil pan dropped, any stray particles should just fall out the bottom...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xthephilx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the oil pan dropped, any stray particles should just fall out the bottom...</TD></TR></TABLE>

... on the crank and oil bridge...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> why do you need to take the head off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The pistons only come out threw the top . I am not a fan of honing with the block still in the car. If you dont want to pull the engine you can just oil the cylinders and use the ring compressor and slide them back in. Since it is a 92SI I would hope bearings and new oil pump would be installed while doing this process. (P.S. maybe some usdm or J spec H22 pistons would give you decent compression increase)

 

nope your right u have to pull the head off just did it last week i would buy new rod bearins as well and u have to make sure that the gaps in the rings are not ligned up otherwise ur back to square one and burning lots of oil. also make sure that when u reinstall the the pistons that u buy some little rubber boots to put on the rod bolts so u dont scratch the cylinder wall. also if u buy new bearings highly recomended u should also make very sure that u plastigauge them before installing. and one more thing make sure that the bearings surface that touches the rod is very clean if u get oil or some kinda **** where the bearing meets the rod say good buy to ur motor. this is not a job for amatures if u dont know a whole lot if would not recomend doing this for the sake of ur motor. also buy a whole gasket set.

 

I change rings on the b18. I didn't have to take the head off. just take the rod bolts off and pull the piston out. but you will need rings clamp tool to install eazy.

 

thats the way i thought it was done. I guess you need to take it off to hone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fongman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I change rings on the b18. I didn't have to take the head off. just take the rod bolts off and pull the piston out. but you will need rings clamp tool to install eazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can not pull pistons out threw the bottom of the block you have to take the head off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude of pre 2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope your right u have to pull the head off just did it last week i would buy new rod bearins as well and u have to make sure that the gaps in the rings are not ligned up otherwise ur back to square one and burning lots of oil. also make sure that when u reinstall the the pistons that u buy some little rubber boots to put on the rod bolts so u dont scratch the cylinder wall. also if u buy new bearings highly recomended u should also make very sure that u plastigauge them before installing. and one more thing make sure that the bearings surface that touches the rod is very clean if u get oil or some kinda **** where the bearing meets the rod say good buy to ur motor. this is not a job for amatures if u dont know a whole lot if would not recomend doing this for the sake of ur motor. also buy a whole gasket set.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Don't you need to size the rings also or is it not needed? I've got this next to do so I'm just reading up on everything needed to be done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fongman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I change rings on the b18. I didn't have to take the head off. just take the rod bolts off and pull the piston out. but you will need rings clamp tool to install eazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha... you are so full of ****! You CAN'T pull the pistons out the bottom of the block! It's impossible! LoL...

So much inexperience in this thread it makes me sick...

 

Fongman, Wilcox's right he's just being an *** about it. Rod/main bearings you don't have to pull the head but for PISTON RINGS you HAVE to pull the head. It is physically impossible to keep your pistons in one piece and remove them from the bottom of your Honda engine. That has not been possible since the 1930's when the bores would clear the main bearings.


I am with Pentaq here. Doing a dingle-berry hone with a hand drill with the crank/girdle/block still in the car is just not right. Maybe it'd be alright if you had a garden sprayer with a couple of gallons of kerosine to wash all the grit off but it is just not the best way to go about it.

Pirate

 

What are you talking about man? You have not taken the pistons out through the bottom of the engine with the head on... LoL...

It's impossible. Haha.. you would know this if you have ever actually attempted it.

I'm not trying to be an ***, I'm just saying. It's funny how someone can be so convinced of something that is so obviously wrong. ANYONE who has EVER rebuilt a Honda engine knows you can't remove the pistons without taking the head off.

P.S. I didn't call you a **** head, I don't even know you. But, I DID say you are full of **** for saying you have actually replaced the piston rings without taking the head off because well, it's impossible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fongman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I change rings on the b18. I didn't have to take the head off. just take the rod bolts off and pull the piston out. but you will need rings clamp tool to install eazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not only did you manage to get the piston past the lower lip of the clyinder, but you also managed to squeeze it past the cranks shaft

 

hey notice ur responce and u sound rather knocklegdable so thought I'd ask u a question from where I posted earlier in a my own thread.

here it goes.
I have got my drag set up installed on my rs integra non v-tech. had the s-afc hack on with 450cc injectors, inline fuel pump, so on. Ne ways sence the kit dosnt come with a return line, I tried to find a good line to use that wouldnt melt anytime it comes close to the exhuast. I looked all through all the home improvment stores and in auto stores around and found the best looking thing i could find. Braided hose that I found in focet section. LOL Ghetto sounding I know. It's about 1/4 in. thick w/ a couple 1/2 in. adaptors. After installing this I noticed soon after that the car was begining to smoke out the exhaust pipe. So I pulled back in and parked it.

I posted my problem earlier and how I thought it was my tune, but then relized no because my settings hadn't changed on the S-afc much at all. It has stayed right at about -40 on low and -40 to -35 on high w/ throttle pt. set @ 30% to 70%. Most people just said get ride of it and get a stand alone, I def plan on gettin hondata, but one person hit on somthing that I am affraid might be the case. He said, "Check ur oil return line make sure there is no kink. Might have to replace ur rings." From what he said I'm guessing maybe the line I bought was too thin and acted like a kink line, and Damn Damn Damn. Rings or seals or both? Dose that sound about right?

I'm feel as though I've encredibly done gone and screwed things up. I'm not even sure how to replace either of those if thats the issue. Guess I'm going to go ahead and find a better return line, until I hear back from ya. Crap I hate the looks and smell of white smoke coming out of anybodies tail pipe expecialy mine. PLEASE HELP!

 

wow after reading this thread i am now stupider

 

well what i would do firs is a leak down test on it if ur leakage is any where from 25% lower ur rings are pry good but if the leakage rate is more than 25% pull the head and look at the pistons if they are clean around the edges that means ur rings are bad and they may be bad even if they are not clean but if ur gunna do the job urself get new rings rod bearings a whole head gasket set and ur also guna need a ball type cylinder hone if u want ur rings to set. but make sure when u hone in that u cover up the journals on the crank and u have to take an oil soaked rag and clean the cylinder walls cause they will be noticably dirty and keep wyping them till the rag is clean. my best advice is to get someone whole really knows what they are doing because the first time i tore apart my motor i didnt hone it and the rings never set and i had a ring crack and a piston crack in between the 2 compression rings. good luck

 

Too many people like to throw their uneducated comments in.....

BTW, honing is not necessary on our motors. Just pop the rings in w/ the right endgaps and go!

 

u may not have to hone it depending on how good the cylinder walls are but if they are glazed yes u do have to hone it or the rings wont set been told this by many mechanics and learned from experience not uneducated