I finally got my h22 dyno'd and granted that I did not make 200 whp, I'm pretty satisfied coz I'm close.

My setup included the stock H22 Intake/Exhaust Manifolds Stock Throttle Body and Accessories(PS & AC).

The head is from a Accord EURO R with a few goodies, while the bottom end is a JDM H22.

Anyway, the reason for my post is because I'm wondering if others would be willing to share their opinions and/or experiences with regards to building the H22's bottom end. I've been hearing that issues tend to arise with a stock H22 bottom once the engine starts to put out 200+ whp.

So to make a long story I'm looking to see exactly what people recommend/done to make the H22 Bottom more reliable once 200+ whp is achieved.

TIA...Darwin

BTW...Here's my dyno sheet for those curious:

 

i haven't seen anyone really run into problems with the bottom end with just some headwork basic bolt on's. But i guess that depends on how high u rev it, and from the looks of it, you shouldn't have any problems seeing that u only rev to 7500. my advice is throw on a good header and intake and say hello to 200+whp. besides if u did start to build the bottom end you'd have to sleeve it and everything and that's roughly $2000.

 

best bet and $$$$$$$wise is to send it to earl and benson and let themsleeve and assemble unless you want to do it yuor self , i did some prety good research and had 3 botm ends built the set up in my car now is a custom A.E.B.S t sleeved closed deck block AEBS main and head studs pauter and custom cp pistons no balance shaft modified oil pump electric wa6ter pump milled oem cranck pully o ringed block acl bearings full balanced (very important ) etc etc car stays at 180 in traffic and is tuned up to 27 pds and spins 8500 with no probs and runs flawless have about 600 miles on this set up now

 

I don't think you'll have any problems with your setup. If you want to build the block without sleeving you could put in some type S pistons and some lighter rods. That would bump your compression and let you rev a bit higher. Depends how far you want to go...

 

Or you can have Golden Eagle sleeve you block with HD sleeves good for 1300 hp and 70 psi on sleeve cracking. Not that you'd ever do anything like that but pretty much guranteed a perfect block from what I've researched. I've talked to Vince and from what I've been told the tolerances on the blocks are absolutely perfect everytime. I've had headgasket issues like no other from day one so I can't directly say one company is the best thus far! As far as craftsmanship GE is supposed to be one of the big 5 engine builders probably even better than that so I'm leaning toward the block performing flawlessly. I need a new copper o-ring and I want to put another (3) hg on and torque to 78-80ft lbs. I've used all oem hg but I don't believe I had the head down tight enough because I went per honda specs. I'm wondering if I should just buy oem headbolts instead of the arp studs?

Anyways here's my GE sleeved, JE 11.5 to 1 forged pistons block. I put Eagle H-Beam rods in the block. Total seal rings which I believe are doing fine because the car uses no oil, lost about 1/2 quart but I think that's when the rings seated. I haven't had the motor revved out at all. Possibly 5000 rpms a couple of times smoothly.

I replaced the rocker arms and lost motions, bought a new oil cooler also because I think the oil is shearing somehow. I replaced all oil cooler lines and know that they're on correctly now. I replaced the dizzy igniter and new coil (oem) also. I'm confident I'm going to have a pretty mean car down the road but it's hard building a motor I think! I've bought cam lock tools, the honda valve adjusting tool, crank holder tool and a few others. I'm learning more and more everyday just by reading on places like this!

I had the car tuned on a vafc just to stable the air fuel. I'm deciding presently what to do with the car as management but I know the air fuel is stablized and I've bought new O2's also. I've spent so much trying to get this motor to be a beast like it should, probably almost $8000 dollars now. I bought RC engineering 440cc saturated injectors now new, I put my red top back in my engine bay now and took the battery relocation kit out. I gave it to a buddy I know for the obd1 injector clip harness.

I'm getting ready to fire the car again I cant wait. On 2 pulls I had the car running 215 to the ground with the atts active with a DC header and a vafc no lie but no dyno sheet because the place I took it to in columbus ohio didn't fix the popping sound in the head which I've found out is the lost motions no doubt my valvetrain wasn't working correctly and vtec wasn't locking right I don't think.

I however don't think anything mechanical wrong is causing the hg but I may be wrong. I wish some ohio people would help me with this. I'm about ready to sell the car because I can't keep paying 277 bucks a month on something I can't get to run. Sorry for the long story but it's about bottom ends and this is some of my expensive experience.

**edit**

Your welcome for the rep GE!!!

 

Thanks to all you guys for the feedback.

Definitely something I'll be looking into real soon. In the mean time, I'll enjoy my current setup and look for a bottom end in good condition that I can buy and build.