EGT gauge or A/F gauge?
Lets compare bang for the buck here.
Would you guy's rather have an EGT or A/F gauge? I think the A/F gauge is a cheaper unit, from what I've seen the EGT gauge and components are pricey, but I think an EGT gauge will give you more of a reliable reading from the engine.
Does anyone know where to pick up a cheap EGT gauge?
What are the thoughts on this?
Would you guy's rather have an EGT or A/F gauge? I think the A/F gauge is a cheaper unit, from what I've seen the EGT gauge and components are pricey, but I think an EGT gauge will give you more of a reliable reading from the engine.
Does anyone know where to pick up a cheap EGT gauge?
What are the thoughts on this?
I went with Autometer EGT gauge and sensor from Summit Racing. Believe it or not they have really good prices on Autometer gauges. Either that or check out EBay. There is a good deal on Autometer gauges once in a while.
I went with Autometer EGT gauge and sensor from Summit Racing. Believe it or not they have really good prices on Autometer gauges. Either that or check out EBay. There is a good deal on Autometer gauges once in a while.
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A/F Gauge can be much cheaper and can be way more expensive than an EGT Gauge,all depends on which rout you take,if money is no issue,I would rather have an Top of the line Wideband such as Blitz or Motec than any EGT Gauge ever made,an EGT cant match the accuacy of one of those when tuning a car.
get both, they tell you different things that are very important like max cylinder pressure is too retarded if your EGT are way up there, or the AF will tell you if you are 13 or leaner and should increase tons of fuel!!! get the haltech or better Autometer is crap and we all know that.
difficult to answer because of obstacles, idealy you want to measure all four cylinders, this r=egt is available but costs $$$ from motec. so yeah go ahead on the cylinder that on your application typically fails first
You need ATM-5765 and ATM-5244. This is for the gauge and sensor. It will run you around $212 shipped. I have the Phantom series, you may want a different color.
I don't know about the kit you looked at. As long as it has the gauge and some sort of probe, I guess it'll do. They have street, competition, and pro series probes. I got the competition. ATM-5243 is the pro series, ATM-5244 or ATM-5247 is the competition series, and ATM-5249 is the street series. I guess you'll just have to figure out which one is right for you.
[Modified by Anubyss, 6:34 PM 2/12/2002]
I don't know about the kit you looked at. As long as it has the gauge and some sort of probe, I guess it'll do. They have street, competition, and pro series probes. I got the competition. ATM-5243 is the pro series, ATM-5244 or ATM-5247 is the competition series, and ATM-5249 is the street series. I guess you'll just have to figure out which one is right for you.
[Modified by Anubyss, 6:34 PM 2/12/2002]
get both!!!
egt/ air-fuel
http://www.westach.com dsm guys use this stuff a bit and i plan on going this route too.
they can make the dual w/ anything. I plan fuel pressure/ something?
egt/ air-fuel
http://www.westach.com dsm guys use this stuff a bit and i plan on going this route too.
they can make the dual w/ anything. I plan fuel pressure/ something?
yea, i mean that a/f doesnt actually do ****, i mean they flash back and forth so fast i cant get a reading...is it just my car?
EGT is handy as well. Good thing I have a factory wideband!
-C
"yea, i mean that a/f doesnt actually do ****, i mean they flash back and forth so fast i cant get a reading...is it just my car?"
and of course is bounces during non WOT situations. Did you bother to go to Autometer site and read? At WOT it should not bounce.
-C
[Modified by TypeC, 9:12 AM 2/13/2002]
and of course is bounces during non WOT situations. Did you bother to go to Autometer site and read? At WOT it should not bounce.
-C
[Modified by TypeC, 9:12 AM 2/13/2002]
yeah...thats what i heard too. I have teh greddy egt, and will be getting the A/F soon. When get on a dyno i will compare it to wideband and report back.
LMAO
I found the A/F gauge on the J&S dual meter to be pretty reliable but then for some reason my ground got messed up and now if my headlights are on the gauge ALWAYS reads lean. The 1V sensors are just SOOO sensitive outside of stoich that a 20 mV offset on the ground wire will completely shoot the readings to hell.
I found the A/F gauge on the J&S dual meter to be pretty reliable but then for some reason my ground got messed up and now if my headlights are on the gauge ALWAYS reads lean. The 1V sensors are just SOOO sensitive outside of stoich that a 20 mV offset on the ground wire will completely shoot the readings to hell.
no need to take off your manifold to install your probe.. just leave the car running and all of the filings will blow out as you drill.
Anywho, that pic of the dual gauge thing looks pretty ugly...hehe. I dunno if I would want that.
Get both! Both the Greddy and Tomei AF Meters use the same NGK/FTK WIDE BAND sensor that is similar to the FTK pro meter, Horiba and Motec sensors. FTK, Motec and Horiba are better because of the complex heater box circuitry. Greddy actually copied Tomei's 10+ year old design and added a crappy peak/hold function and a warning light.
Why both? Sometimes high EGT's can be the result of too much fuel? I know this because my EGT's were hitting 800 degrees celcius on hard runs but my AF readings were in the 11.5 range. I trimmed fuel away from the midrange and topend and my EGT's dropped to 750 C with AF readings of 12.5~12.9.
Why both? Sometimes high EGT's can be the result of too much fuel? I know this because my EGT's were hitting 800 degrees celcius on hard runs but my AF readings were in the 11.5 range. I trimmed fuel away from the midrange and topend and my EGT's dropped to 750 C with AF readings of 12.5~12.9.




, and looking at a the greddy air/fuel and egt.