Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Cotter pin at Tie rod end

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:32 PM
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Default Cotter pin at Tie rod end

I bought two new tie rod end from NAPA, came with new castle nut and cotter pins. Now the cotter pin is below the castle nut, is it safe if I use another castle nut so they are aligned? Thanks.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:35 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (BANNED_ID)

that will work fine... if you can fit two castle nuts on and still have room to put the cotter key in..
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:36 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (BANNED_ID)

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking? Are you asking if it is ok to replace the castle nut and cotter pin?
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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but the thing is why did the cotter pin does not align with the castle nut? maybe I over tighten em?
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

I think he's saying that the castle nut screws on too far, and so the cotter pin doesn't actually go through the ***** on the end of the castle nut when you put it through the bolt
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Aphelion)

yes...
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Aphelion)

Don't use two castle nuts, EVER. As long as the nut is torqued and you chekc on it in a week or so it will be fine without the pin through it. The pins really are not that big of a deal.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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Also when I put them in I think I pressed some grease out of the boot, should I put in some new grease?
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:42 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

Hmm? So what will the keep nut from backing off? I run the car at the track so I really want everything in top condition.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:44 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (BANNED_ID)

Check it in a week or so to make sure it is still torqued to spec.

As for the grease, is it a sealed boot or is there a grease zerk on it?
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use two castle nuts, EVER. As long as the nut is torqued and you chekc on it in a week or so it will be fine without the pin through it. The pins really are not that big of a deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, I want to say the opposite..

ALWAYS use a cotter pin, ALWAYS. Two castle nuts doesn't seem like such a bad idea, as long as the first castle nut is torqued to spec, and the second one is just hand tight, with the cotter pin going through it.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 07:57 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Aphelion)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aphelion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I want to say the opposite..

ALWAYS use a cotter pin, ALWAYS. Two castle nuts doesn't seem like such a bad idea, as long as the first castle nut is torqued to spec, and the second one is just hand tight, with the cotter pin going through it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So when was the last time you got a $27k education from a tech school and passed your ASE tests and then got a job at a dealership doing suspension work? Because I did that not too long ago. Yes a cotter pin helps, but I have seen cars go more than 100k without one. My car has gone about 20k without it and I haven't had a problem. It's all a matter of how well you do the work. And if you can fit two castle nuts on there your work was not done right. So no, you should never ever use two castle nuts.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So when was the last time you got a $27k education from a tech school and passed your ASE tests and then got a job at a dealership doing suspension work? Because I did that not too long ago. Yes a cotter pin helps, but I have seen cars go more than 100k without one. My car has gone about 20k without it and I haven't had a problem. It's all a matter of how well you do the work. And if you can fit two castle nuts on there your work was not done right. So no, you should never ever use two castle nuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would hate to be the person that owned that car . Cottor pins are used for saftey measures as all parts that move have the ability of loosening due to that part moving. I will never not use a cotter pin, because I would hate to lose it on a highway, crash and die over a stupid cotter pin. If you can't use a cotter pin because it doesn't line up then you screwed up somewhere else and should go fix that before worrying about the cotter pin.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Bond)

I hope you people realize that if he can fit a second nut on there something is way wrong. The pin would be the least of my worries if I were him. But like I said before, If the work is done right (which it obviously was not) then you don't have to worry about things like this. ****, it's like arguing with a bunch of 10 year olds about who should be the next president.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So when was the last time you got a $27k education from a tech school and passed your ASE tests and then got a job at a dealership doing suspension work? Because I did that not too long ago. Yes a cotter pin helps, but I have seen cars go more than 100k without one. My car has gone about 20k without it and I haven't had a problem. It's all a matter of how well you do the work. And if you can fit two castle nuts on there your work was not done right. So no, you should never ever use two castle nuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please, don't start this stupid "my dick is bigger" game. You show how intelligent you are with that type of talk. Anyway, you've seen cars go more than 100k without one. Ok, well people have also seen assemblies fall apart after 5k without one. Sure, the correct torque should keep the nut on there, but under certain stresses and weather conditions, it can loosen, even when torqued properly.

Now.. I told him two castle nuts was ok because I assumed he just had two castle nuts of the wrong height. You're probably right though, he probably has done something wrong. If you knew that, why would you tell him to just forget about the cotter pin (which is useful even when the nut is installed correctly, even more so when someone has installed something incorrectly)

I'm not here to argue with you, let's just get this guy back on the road Let's do constructive debates from here on out
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Aphelion)

I'm in here for one reason. To offer advice because I know more than the average person. But the last few times i have offered advice on here som one has to try and start a pissing match in which case I end up wasting my time to get the proof to show people that what I said was correct.

From now on I'm just going to read the topics and laugh at the stupid things people do.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

No need to get on your high horse guy. I admitted that part of the advise I gave him was probably wrong.. you could do the same for what you said. There's really nothing wrong with being wrong, it happens to everyone. I'm sorry if you thought I was trying to start a pissing contest... I thought you were doing the same. Let's just move on
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Aphelion)

I'll admit I'm wrong about the cotter pin when my control arm falls off.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 08:45 PM
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how could i have made a mistake? I admit it is my first time but what could go wrong? Over tigtening will cause this? I dont think so...
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 10:31 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll admit I'm wrong about the cotter pin when my control arm falls off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're such a deuche bag braggin about a 27k dollar education, yet you don't follow proper procedure when assembling a car! I work at a Honda dealership....as soon as I see a car without cotter pins, I think HACK job. My friend skimped out once. Torqued his ball joints to 43 ft lbs. A week later, what do ya know, the ball joint falls out and he messes up his new JDM front.

They're there for a reason.

And most of the time I do see that tie rod castle nuts do not allign with the cotter pin hole like they do with ball joints....I do this everday

Usually there is a gap. Keep the cotter pin there, if the nut ever starts backing off, it will stop at the cotter pin. Hopefully you will notice the clunk and play in steering, and locate the problem. Cotter pins= CHEAP insurance. Why do you think they're hard to take off sometimes? Because the nut has loosened and put pressure on it!
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Evs-One)

^^^^ Now he knows what he is talking about .
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 07:29 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (Evs-One)

Thanks. So what is the solution? Just keep the pin there?
I actually bend the pin upwards so it somewhat touched with the castle nut groove.
And no I can't fit another castle nut in there, but I was thinking maybe put a washer between the castle nut and the knuckle? Is it safe to do so?
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (BANNED_ID)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BANNED_ID &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. So what is the solution? Just keep the pin there?
I actually bend the pin upwards so it somewhat touched with the castle nut groove.
And no I can't fit another castle nut in there, but I was thinking maybe put a washer between the castle nut and the knuckle? Is it safe to do so?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the castle nut is tightened so much that the cotter pin can't touch it then something else is wrong. Did you buy the tie rods for your specific car, make and year? I honestly think you should look into why the castle nut is not sitting where it should be. I bought tie rod ends from Honda last year and they fit perfectly. I say, figure out why the problem is occuring, fix it first and the cotter pins will fit like they use too. Are the castle nuts the same as your old ones? Are the tie rod ends thinner than your stock ones? I have found in the past that domestic companies (NAPA, etc.) do not make a good fitting and good quality product for our import cars. Sure they make the same parts, but often they don't have nearly as good of fitment and overall life/quality that genuine Honda parts do. They may be more expensive, but you get what you paid for.
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

You are a dumb idiot, i didnt put my cotter pin in, castle nut ended coming off and tie rod end popping out almost made me crash, your education is trash. Obviously got ripped off in your education as well, cotter pin serves a prupose.

The cotter pin allows the castle nut not to unthread yet at the same time give the stud free play to twist and turn. Obviously someone was sleeping in class.
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Old Jul 22, 2005 | 01:58 PM
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Default Re: Cotter pin at Tie rod end (JDM-97CX)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll admit I'm wrong about the cotter pin when my control arm falls off.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i hope it does
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