When I jack up the car, the springs are able to dangle free. Is that normal?

Obviously when the car is on the ground, the springs compress and hold it in place. But do I need any preload with the GC sleeves?

I can't seem to get any preload even with the sleeve on the highest perch. The front springs are 8" long.

 

It's totaly normal for GC springs to dangle. When driving around hard turns, your swaybars should keep the springs seated by lifting the inside wheel. The only problem you should watch out for, is your springs not seating properly in the top hats when you lower the car back to the ground. I always double checked as I would bring the car down.

There is one way, however, to add some pre-load with a GC sleeve kit. You would have to get a set of helper springs and spring couplers (to connect the two springs together). I checked into it with GC about 2 years ago, and at the time they cost around 200 bucks. A helper spirng is a flat wire spring with no real spring rate. Their job is to keep the main springs seated when your suspension droops. When the suspension is loaded, the Helper just compresses into a flat spacer, and doesn't do anything. I almost got this kit, but for the price, it really wasn't worth it. Mabey one day when I'm totaly rich...

I did notice that once I installed GC upper mounts on the front suspnesion, there was no more problems making sure the springs seated properly. The GC upper mounts locate the spring on the inner diameter, so they always just pop right into place. And of course, they add .75" of shock compression travel. A better deal for close to the same amount of money IMO...

 

Quit reading this forum, you do not need any pre-load....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quit reading this forum, you do not need any pre-load....</TD></TR></TABLE>
You just warmed my heart.

 

Thanks guys.

Another question.

1. I cut my stock bumpstops in half per Ground Control instructions. Where should the bump stop be? On the bottom of the shock shaft or wedged up top and stuck there.

2. The two top jam nuts on the shock. How important is it to tighten this? I try to tighten it and it doesn't stop tightening. Helms manual says 22lb/ft, but my torque wrench doesn't click, the nut just keeps turning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Understeer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys.

Another question.

1. I cut my stock bumpstops in half per Ground Control instructions. Where should the bump stop be? On the bottom of the shock shaft or wedged up top and stuck there.

2. The two top jam nuts on the shock. How important is it to tighten this? I try to tighten it and it doesn't stop tightening. Helms manual says 22lb/ft, but my torque wrench doesn't click, the nut just keeps turning.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. The bump stop will get pushed up to the top of the shaft no matter where you put it, so it doesn't really matter.

2. Your supposed to tighten the first nut all the way down until it finally does stop (its a long long way). Then once it bottoms out the washers on the inner sleeves, it will tighten up and you can put down the proper torque value. Then you install the second nut and torque that one the same. I know it seems like for ever, but the nut (#18) must squeeze the hell out of the shock mount bushings (#7) to pinch the washers (#6 & #15) tight to the sleeve (#14)...