Ok i bought a integra rear swaybar and when i match it up to install it on my 95 civic coupe, then endlinks are quite a distance from the rear lca's i got (megan racing) did you guys use something special?

 

im interested i knowing this too. i have megans and just got those sway bars. Havnet tried fitting them yet. Hope they can work.

 

i think the read of the car needs to be off it's wheels... i'm not sure though.

 

anyone else?

 

I believe that you will run into the problem of the endlinks not reaching the mounting points on the LCA, whereby the solution is to add spacers and use a longer bolt in order to make the endlink connect, while staying as close to perpendicular to the ground as possible. Someone posted some good pics as explanation a while back...

 

The fact of the matter is that aftermarket LCAs are designed incorrectly (except "Function 7"). For some god-damned reason they made the EG LCA sway-bar holes similar to the EK LCAs and not the Integra ones. This means integra parts no longer line up correctly. I'de bet that EK end-links would work like a charm with the Megan crap. I would try those...

 

if you can grab a set of Integra LCA's, you can see if the holes line up for purposes of comparison. That would verify whether or not the Megan LCA's are designed properly.

As for the install, I think you're supposed to have the suspension loaded (wheels on ground) to be able to bolt up properly.

 

They are defiently wrong!!!!

Megan:


Function 7 (same location as OEM):

 

damn megan racing

 

It's not just Megan, its every other company that makes these things too. In fact some of them actually make "shorter than stock" LCAs and advertise "camber correction". What they don't tell you is that pulling the rear end of your trailing arm in at the bottom will "toe out" your rear tires and reduce your track width. Then correcting your toe by pulling in the nose of the trailing arm will actually stretch the trailing arm bushing to one side causing it to wear out pre-maturely (not to mention **** up your suspension geometry).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not just Megan, its every other company that makes these things too. In fact some of them actually make "shorter than stock" LCAs and advertise "camber correction". What they don't tell you is that pulling the rear end of your trailing arm in at the bottom will "toe out" your rear tires and reduce your track width. Then correcting your toe by pulling in the nose of the trailing arm will actually stretch the trailing arm bushing to one side causing it to wear out pre-maturely (not to mention **** up your suspension geometry). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Great Points!

The other things the "other" guys that make LCAs is they use low quality bushings held in by a set screw. Thi creates a stress point in the LCA, and since its a cast part of lower grade aluminum, its more likely to fail versus the Function7 arms.

 

has anyone else tried this any pics?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe that you will run into the problem of the endlinks not reaching the mounting points on the LCA, whereby the solution is to add spacers and use a longer bolt in order to make the endlink connect, while staying as close to perpendicular to the ground as possible. Someone posted some good pics as explanation a while back...</TD></TR></TABLE>