just like topic states i bought some pro1s and i am having the hardest time getting them to idle at 850-1000 rpms has any one been able to get rid of the v8 rumble

motor is a poormans r with 12.5 compression rc 310, 81.5 bore full pnp.and i'm using crome to tune and vafc

 

nobody yet

 

up

 

It is a good idea to get cams like these with large primaries tuned professionally. BTW, why are you using a VAFC with Crome?

 

I can prolly do it. I have no problem with the M22x and the primaries even larger on the m22x.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is a good idea to get cams like these with large primaries tuned professionally. BTW, why are you using a VAFC with Crome?</TD></TR></TABLE>becuase i already had a vafc and its easier to adjust the fuel with the afc than to keep burning chips over and over again but i almost have it where i'm not even using the vafc w/ crome. but i'm trying to get a good basemap going so by the time i get it to the dyno i will not be wasting time trying just to get the car to idle normal. i plan on taking this car to the dyno asap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can prolly do it. I have no problem with the M22x and the primaries even larger on the m22x.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and rocket i would appreciate that very much

 

You need to lean out the idle a ton.. Since you have both and its quicker, just leave the crome at factory settings at idle and lean the vafc like 20% at a time at idle and see if it helps, then set that back to 0 and go into0 crome and adjust the map accordingly.. also try setting your idle timming colums in crome to say 20degrees instead of the normal 16..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to lean out the idle a ton.. Since you have both and its quicker, just leave the crome at factory settings at idle and lean the vafc like 20% at a time at idle and see if it helps, then set that back to 0 and go into0 crome and adjust the map accordingly.. also try setting your idle timming colums in crome to say 20degrees instead of the normal 16.. </TD></TR></TABLE>i tryed that i set my time in crome at 22 degree and raise the idle 2 1500rpms and i lean the vafc out 16% but its still not nice and stead and when i drive it its still dying out on me. but its getting to late for me to keep playing with it and i think my neigbors are getting tired of the noise. plus i had to watch Mikes old *** lose another fight its over for him

 

Man you need to try to pull like 40 -50% at idle just try with the vafc

 

i would also suggest opening the throttlebody a little and seeing if it can even out at 1000+rpm and if it does, use the stop screw to keep it there.

i would also attempt to go negative 30+ points depending on FPR settings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man you need to try to pull like 40 -50% at idle just try with the vafc</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i did that it would just die out but i'm going to keep at it until this **** is smooth. but when u had these cams where u able to get a nice smoth un v8 sounding idle

 

its gonna be pretty tough to compleatly get rid of the v8 lope.mine idle pretty good around 1100 rpms but that was tuneed with neptune and idle is at 24 degrees

 

What fuel pressure are you running, what kind of fpr are you running, what type of injectors are you running (besides 310cc's)? 12.5 to 1 with 310cc injectors seems to low. I'd look into some 370cc's or possibly even 440cc RC's! If you get the 440's most likely you'd need to turn down your pressure about 6-12 psi. It would be safe to say your injector duty cycle is close to 100% or the injectors are staying on to long and putting the fire out with to much fuel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shdriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What fuel pressure are you running, what kind of fpr are you running, what type of injectors are you running (besides 310cc's)? 12.5 to 1 with 310cc injectors seems to low. I'd look into some 370cc's or possibly even 440cc RC's! If you get the 440's most likely you'd need to turn down your pressure about 6-12 psi. It would be safe to say your injector duty cycle is close to 100% or the injectors are staying on to long and putting the fire out with to much fuel. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shdriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What fuel pressure are you running, what kind of fpr are you running, what type of injectors are you running (besides 310cc's)? 12.5 to 1 with 310cc injectors seems to low. I'd look into some 370cc's or possibly even 440cc RC's! If you get the 440's most likely you'd need to turn down your pressure about 6-12 psi. It would be safe to say your injector duty cycle is close to 100% or the injectors are staying on to long and putting the fire out with to much fuel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its safe to say you have no idea what you are talking about, why on earth would you buy 440's an turn your fp down to 6-12 psi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would also suggest opening the throttle body a little and seeing if it can even out at 1000+rpm and if it does, use the stop screw to keep it there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Playing with the throttle stop screw did wonders for my idle with Toda 'c's.
And ditto as far as 6-12 psi being ridiculously low

 

Dude it's a typo jesus ****** christ man. Do you geeks sit around here and look for people to correct when in essence you look like a nerd for pointing it out! It was supposed to say turn fuel pressure down 6-12 psi (from stock of course). I've got an all motor lude that has 7 grand into the motor. Sleeved by GE, forged JE's 11.5 to 1. forged rods, full head build with crower tit ret, stage 2 cams, dual springs, ss valves, ferrea bronze valve guides, stage 2 port by one of the best. Shall I go on and on or should I just let you look like an *** for "***"uming someone actually didn't know what they were talking about. Just because people have less than 100 post on this site doesn't mean they're ****** stupid or maybe it does eh! Some guys that have less posts are just the quieter guys that have already have their cars built and let you all figure things out for yourself.

Ok sorry and I'm not calling anyone out in particular except the guy who thinks he's my teacher. Just chill out and grow up, leave people be if they're not talking too you! Most of the time they didn't want to here any comments from you to begin with!











There's some pics so I don't get the big BS flag! I think I know what I'm talking about, I'm not like some and post useless info. I'm speaking from direct experience, I'm the one that pulled the motor, tore it down, planned what to do, got it back, put it together, so just trust me on the injector part. I'm running 11.5 to 1 and needed a little bit bigger than 370cc RC's so I bought the 440cc's and turn down my pressure. My blocks got HD sleeves and I anticipate adding a direct port 100 shot at LEAST so I got the bigger injectors so I didn't have to later. If anyone has questions feel free!


Modified by shdriver99 at 8:37 AM 6/12/2005

 

Chill dude. It's only the internet. Everybody makes typos and mistakes. Try not to be so sensitive, you will live longer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shdriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude it's a typo jesus ****** christ man. Do you geeks sit around here and look for people to correct when in essence you look like a nerd for pointing it out! It was supposed to say turn fuel pressure down 6-12 psi (from stock of course). I've got an all motor lude that has 7 grand into the motor. Sleeved by GE, forged JE's 11.5 to 1. forged rods, full head build with crower tit ret, stage 2 cams, dual springs, ss valves, ferrea bronze valve guides, stage 2 port by one of the best. Shall I go on and on or should I just let you look like an *** for "***"uming someone actually didn't know what they were talking about. Just because people have less than 100 post on this site doesn't mean they're ****** stupid or maybe it does eh! Some guys that have less posts are just the quieter guys that have already have their cars built and let you all figure things out for yourself.

Ok sorry and I'm not calling anyone out in particular except the guy who thinks he's my teacher. Just chill out and grow up, leave people be if they're not talking too you! Most of the time they didn't want to here any comments from you to begin with!


There's some pics so I don't get the big BS flag! I think I know what I'm talking about, I'm not like some and post useless info. I'm speaking from direct experience, I'm the one that pulled the motor, tore it down, planned what to do, got it back, put it together, so just trust me on the injector part. I'm running 11.5 to 1 and needed a little bit bigger than 370cc RC's so I bought the 440cc's and turn down my pressure. My blocks got HD sleeves and I anticipate adding a direct port 100 shot at LEAST so I got the bigger injectors so I didn't have to later. If anyone has questions feel free!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude ,, if he's tuning with crome he doesnt need to lower pressure at all.. Thats why you have the injector multiplier to scale the map accordingly to the size of the inj..

I run 580 cc's and 50+ psi pressure .. Fuel pressure on larger injs is a good thing because the spray pattern is better. You just need to shorten the duty cycle to remove fuel, not drop the pressure.. You only need to drop pressure when you have no controll over the fuel map..

And calm down your giving me an ulser (disclaimer, that was just a joke so dont get all pissed at me)

 

Actually, dropping the pressure can, in certain instances, make you run more rich at idle. For example on our turbo cars running 1000cc injectors we actually have to increase fuel pressure to get them to close faster. That's why it's so hard to tune by fuel pressure.

 

Most people that have money in their motors don't just use a fpr for tuning purposes though. All motor is a totally different game than trying to get a turbo car to idle. Most often very big injectors are used so of course dropping pressure can cause problems! Dropping it a bit on all motor apps a bit is less forgiving. Just seems like 12.5 to 1 is going to need a lot more than 310cc injectors if you ask me!

 

How much vacuum is the motor pulling at idle? Moderately lower, like around 18"Hg? Or, maybe even as low as 16"Hg?

Maybe you're working in the wrong column if you don't know what set of cells are being used for idle conditions.

Have you tried advancing the intake cam a degree or two to help it pull more vacuum?

 

I would advance the exhaust instead of the intake if you want to take out overlap.

 

That would theoretically make sense, but in my experience, I've always been able to get the motor to pull more vacuum by advancing the intake cam a degree or two. That was with the Stage 1's and Stage 2's tho...which may not apply since the primaries are smaller.

 

Safer advice to advance the exhaust rather than the intake.

I've been thru this with customers before with our primaries, so this is nothing new.