Swaying DC2
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 450
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From: 2 1/2 inches below a mile high, CO, USA
Hey everybody! So My 01 Integra seems to have alot of bodyroll, its weird because I just installed 1200 bucks worth of suspension and it seems to be nearly as bad as stock. Here's my set up.....
Tanabe Sustech pro SS coilovers, 8 way adjustable outback, 4 way in front.
Front and rear Strut tower bars
Full SPC suspension stuff (alum lower control arms etc)
Rota GT3's w/ 205-45-16 Nitto Neo-Gens
What is my problem?
I have the dampers on the Tanabes set at 2 up front (half way up)
and 6 out back (6 out of 8)
This is the first "real" suspension I have ever had (not just lowering springs on stock struts) and im not too impressed. Any tuning advise or possible something missing to help bring the set up together? Like swaybars or something?
Jai
Tanabe Sustech pro SS coilovers, 8 way adjustable outback, 4 way in front.
Front and rear Strut tower bars
Full SPC suspension stuff (alum lower control arms etc)
Rota GT3's w/ 205-45-16 Nitto Neo-Gens
What is my problem?
I have the dampers on the Tanabes set at 2 up front (half way up)
and 6 out back (6 out of 8)
This is the first "real" suspension I have ever had (not just lowering springs on stock struts) and im not too impressed. Any tuning advise or possible something missing to help bring the set up together? Like swaybars or something?
Jai
Strut tower bars & aluminum LCAs don't do anything for your driving experience. Sway bars make a much bigger difference in handling that those two things (multiplied by 10).
You may want to play with your shock damping a little more. I don't know how wide of a range the sustec dampers have, but I'm betting you would want much more damping up front than what you have right now. Don't follow the hype of "your rear shocks should be stiffer". I suggest you try setting all your shocks on full stiff, and then full soft. Then compare the ride/handling. This will give you a better idea of what your tuning options are...
You may want to play with your shock damping a little more. I don't know how wide of a range the sustec dampers have, but I'm betting you would want much more damping up front than what you have right now. Don't follow the hype of "your rear shocks should be stiffer". I suggest you try setting all your shocks on full stiff, and then full soft. Then compare the ride/handling. This will give you a better idea of what your tuning options are...
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 450
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From: 2 1/2 inches below a mile high, CO, USA
I agree with your theroy, but heres a question. If I set the dampers up farther will the ride quality suffer more than it already does? And who makes good sway bars, what sizes are best and how much coin am I going to spend for one?
Thanx
JAi
Thanx
JAi
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JAI-DM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with your theroy, but heres a question. If I set the dampers up farther will the ride quality suffer more than it already does? And who makes good sway bars, what sizes are best and how much coin am I going to spend for one?
Thanx
JAi</TD></TR></TABLE>
ride quality depends on what you want... you obviously installed the tanabe shocks and springs for a reason.
turn it up to full for a week and see how it feels... this is what i did with my yellows just to see what i'd like and what would fit my daily driving style.
Thanx
JAi</TD></TR></TABLE>
ride quality depends on what you want... you obviously installed the tanabe shocks and springs for a reason.
turn it up to full for a week and see how it feels... this is what i did with my yellows just to see what i'd like and what would fit my daily driving style.
Springs (coils and anti-roll bars) control body roll. Dampers control the speed at which the springs work.
Thus, if you want less body roll, you're going to need stiffer springs. You'll also need dampers that can properly control the stiffer springs.
Your ride quality will only get more harsh. It's the price you pay. You must choose a balance between handling and ride quality that suits your needs.
Thus, if you want less body roll, you're going to need stiffer springs. You'll also need dampers that can properly control the stiffer springs.
Your ride quality will only get more harsh. It's the price you pay. You must choose a balance between handling and ride quality that suits your needs.
The chassis bars have nothing to do with bodyroll so posting them is irelevenant.
Your DC5 has Mac strut up front, this design is horriable because as the it compress it does the exact opposite of what a Double-Wishbone does. It loses camber instead of gaining it. To get a car like this to handle well at all requies tons of front camber and tons of front spring to hold the desired camber. Realtime on there world challenge RSXes use to use 1200lb front springs and about 4.5 degree of front camber i have heard. They have since switched to the TSX which has the tried and true honda double wishbone design. Plain and simple your car will never handle as well your buddies double wishbone honda, all because honda decided cost and safety were more important than handling,durability and ride comfort.
Your DC5 has Mac strut up front, this design is horriable because as the it compress it does the exact opposite of what a Double-Wishbone does. It loses camber instead of gaining it. To get a car like this to handle well at all requies tons of front camber and tons of front spring to hold the desired camber. Realtime on there world challenge RSXes use to use 1200lb front springs and about 4.5 degree of front camber i have heard. They have since switched to the TSX which has the tried and true honda double wishbone design. Plain and simple your car will never handle as well your buddies double wishbone honda, all because honda decided cost and safety were more important than handling,durability and ride comfort.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattamotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes better tires=more roll. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hah, ain't that the truth. Stock 00 gsr, and after I mounted my Azenis, I can get enough body roll to drag the mud flaps.
Hah, ain't that the truth. Stock 00 gsr, and after I mounted my Azenis, I can get enough body roll to drag the mud flaps.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,633
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
swaybars swaybars swaybars. get rid of the mickey mouse "chassis stiffening products" and get a real suspension component that actually does something!
try the:
ITR rear sway 22m
progress 24mm adj. rear sway
also look into subframe bracing.
try the:
ITR rear sway 22m
progress 24mm adj. rear sway
also look into subframe bracing.
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