I just did my B18b1./gsr tranny swap on my 98 dx and the engine starts up fine and then it runs a little rough. It will then idle smoothly and will either just shut off or it will stumble a bit and then idle fine and then it will keep doing this and eventually it will stall out.

The funny thing is i have no CEL's, only codes for the ABS system. My buddy mentioned it sounds like the cars not getting enough fuel, does this sound right? Any other ideas what i should check on the car?

one thing i should mention is that the charcoal canister has 1 line that is not hooked up and there is a sensor on the top of the IM (EVAP solenoid i believe) that is not hooked up aswell. i believe that the thing on the IM connects to the evap canister but the line is too short. I dont think this would make a huge difference though?

 

if its the plug right by the intake, it will stall out your engine... when i say right by the intake i mean the first plug after the stock intake.. lil clip ontop..

i believe that is the oxygen sensor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morning Call &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its the plug right by the intake, it will stall out your engine... when i say right by the intake i mean the first plug after the stock intake.. lil clip ontop..

i believe that is the oxygen sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope, your o2 is post header, pre cat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scarlemthug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The funny thing is i have no CEL's, only codes for the ABS system. My buddy mentioned it sounds like the cars not getting enough fuel, does this sound right? Any other ideas what i should check on the car?

one thing i should mention is that the charcoal canister has 1 line that is not hooked up and there is a sensor on the top of the IM (EVAP solenoid i believe) that is not hooked up aswell. i believe that the thing on the IM connects to the evap canister but the line is too short. I dont think this would make a huge difference though?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Leaning out on fuel could cause it, running too rich can too. you would have to be at the extremes for this to happen though. if you are running too lean, you'll hear some pinging (detonation) in the motor. Hook up the evap canister and whatever sensor you are talking about. Try to narrow down the possibilities as much as possible.

 

yeah im hoping its just a dirty connection or something because the engine ran beautiful in the hatch i had and the D16y7 ran perfect in the coupe before i swapped so there has to be something going on.

 

k i think the engine is running rich or something because the spark plugs are all black and carbon deposited

 

i've had that prob from running rich. I had an o2 cel first though. in my case it was because of a walbro 255 upping my fuel pressure to high. I got an FPR and guage, and fixed the problem.

 

yeah i dont understand why its running pretty rough at idle and stalling yet im not throwing any CEL codes only ABS codes. one thing im thinking is it could be the ignition because one of the ABS codes is low ignition i think.

Any idea on what things i can do to trouble shoot? I dont have an FPR or FPR gauge so im SOL with that.

 

if your a/f is too rich, the fuel won't ignite, you'll misfire. if you misfire too often, the motor will die without warning. did you change out anything in your fuel system?

 

so running too rich will cause it to suddenly die? The only thing i changed was i swapped the obd1 injectors for obd2a injectors which i know work perfectly. everything else is pretty much stock and hasnt been changed doing the swap.

 

i dont' know much about b series injectors but don't you need a resistor box for obd1 and not for obd2. that's how it is for the H series injectors. You may have already done that though.

 

well the car is obd2a running an obd1 ECU, i dont think i need a resistor box because im using obd2 injectors. im really stumped as to whats up with the engine. I was thinking of adjusting the ignition timing on the dizzy to see if that helps but i dont wanna mess anything up

 

put a timing light on it first and you won't mess it up. in case the spark is just bad, have you replaced plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor recently?

 

plugs, cap and rotor were done on the engine i believe 15000km ago. I just swapped plug wires with ones i have tested to make sure they work properly and no change.

 

hmmm it kinda sounds like a vacuum leak, like its idling lowwww and then it revs up and then lowwwww and then back up eventually dieing. i cant see any open vacuum nipples except the evap solenoid which isnt even connected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scarlemthug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm it kinda sounds like a vacuum leak, like its idling lowwww and then it revs up and then lowwwww and then back up eventually dieing. i cant see any open vacuum nipples except the evap solenoid which isnt even connected.</TD></TR></TABLE>

plug the line with your finger and see what it does. seems kind of strange that it would affect the idle enough to kill the engine. you really should hook that up right though.

 

well i didnt wire up any of the EVAP stuff on the harness so it shoudlnt effect it i dont think. all that solenoid is for is taking the fuel vent fumes into the IM i believe.

yeah i dont think a vacuum leak would cause the car to idle low enough to die.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scarlemthug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i dont think a vacuum leak would cause the car to idle low enough to die.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that in combination with something else can though. it is probably the cause of the idle jumping up and down.

 

yeah, its prolly 2 things together. im gonna double check the wiring for my dizzy and make sure all the wires go to the right place.

 

also it wasnt connected when it was in my eg hatch running hte same ECU so it shouldnt effect it i dont think.

 

i've never run without my charcoal canister, so i don't know exactly what it will do, but i know that vacuum leaks cause idle fluctuations. if you don't hook it up, cap it off.

 

im gonna try and get that line hooked up and go from there. ill prolly swap plugs too and see if that helps at all.

 

k i hooked up the line on top of hte IM to the evap canister and the engine does run better. Now my only problem is that it still will die on me.

basically it will start up without hesitation, then it will start to bog down. Then it will idle nicely and will seem like everything is right, but it still will randomly start to stutter and sometimes die at idle.

Any ideas?

 

bump

 

ok so i tested the injectors resistance and 1&2 are 12.3ohm, 3 is 12.1ohm and 4 is 12.4ohm, would this cause any issues?

also i tested the dizzy and theres 12.xV with the car off on the black and yellow wire. I tested the primary wires and they have a resistance of 1.1ohm which isnt within spec, the secondary tested 17ohm which is within spec. would the primary not being within spec cause my problems?


Basically when i start the engine up cold it will stutter and stumble after it starts up perfectly. Then it will rev up and then it will drop rpms and almost die. it will continue to do this until the engine starts to warm up. once it warms up it will idle really nicely and then out of nowhere it will just die.

 

could it also be the the IACV or fast idle valve?