my new dc2. Low oil at first oil change! need leakdown test info.
I went to change my oil for the first time in my new gsr. When i first got it i checked the oil and it was fine.. i went less than 200 miles over my oil change and i checked it yesterday and it was at the bottom mark on the dipstick so i changed the oil.. i know (from what i can see) that there are no oil leaks.. the motor is clean as hell. There was a little around the oil pan but ive seen that on every car ive changed the oil in... ive also never seen smoke come out or anything.. i was thinking of getting a compression test to check if i may be burning but im new to it. how much would a test kit cost?
ok.. the compression test looks easy as hell.. i just need to know an average price for a decent kit... also want to know if anybody knows if its normal to lose this much oil? ive only taken the car to redline like twice since ive owned it.. i dont really rag on it much. Im using mobil one sythetic btw..
oh yeah and the car only has 90k on it.. i dont know why it would be burning it with such low miles.. unless the guy before me ragged the **** out of it...
oh yeah and the car only has 90k on it.. i dont know why it would be burning it with such low miles.. unless the guy before me ragged the **** out of it...
i have the same thing. About 90k on mileage and burn oil like a mother. Unlike you, I have black smoke and my bumper gets dark if you dont clean it right away. Everyone says its running rich, but the burning of oil should be your rings according to the countless searches ive done. They say its blow by of oil. Just be exactly sure there is no leaks. I went to fix all my leaks at Acura and they found two places more that i didnt.
It doesnt blow smoke that I can see. but my bumper does turn black but i thought it was because my muffler practically touches the bumper.. i dunno im kind of worried... anyone else?
it could be that you need new valve seals, and a valve adjustment...if they are outta spec the pressure from combustion will cause blow by and make you burn oil..
hmmm really.. its got a CTR intake cam.. i kinda hear the valves ticking but not loud or anything.. i have yet to do a valve adjustment.. i hear its easy i just need a special tool?
and when vtec engages its really loud at first then the sound kind of flattens out as i get to redline.. could that be blow by causing the sound to flatten?? kinda hard to explain.
Oh yeah and is the specs the same even tho i got the CTR cam? should i adjust them the same as the stock cam?
and when vtec engages its really loud at first then the sound kind of flattens out as i get to redline.. could that be blow by causing the sound to flatten?? kinda hard to explain.

Oh yeah and is the specs the same even tho i got the CTR cam? should i adjust them the same as the stock cam?
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B series motors are notorious for burning Mobil 1. Try switching to Castrol GTX to see if it slows it down any. In addition, clean up the area around the oil pan to see if you can spot a potential leak anywhere. Compression testers vary in cost, I think I paid $30 for the last one I bought.
no no.. not 1 qt in 200 miles... 1 qt maybe in about 3200 miles....
how would the pcv valve make it burn? the oil gets sprayed into the motor or somehting?
thanks kendall.. ill try castol on my next change.
another wierd thing. there was a honda oil filter on it when i went to change it and i swear a friggin cyborg put this thing on.. i barley had any room and i put a big *** dent in the filter before i could get it loose with the wrench. pain in the ***.
how would the pcv valve make it burn? the oil gets sprayed into the motor or somehting?
thanks kendall.. ill try castol on my next change.
another wierd thing. there was a honda oil filter on it when i went to change it and i swear a friggin cyborg put this thing on.. i barley had any room and i put a big *** dent in the filter before i could get it loose with the wrench. pain in the ***.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HoUTX98GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
another wierd thing. there was a honda oil filter on it when i went to change it and i swear a friggin cyborg put this thing on.. i barley had any room and i put a big *** dent in the filter before i could get it loose with the wrench. pain in the ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep...hard as hell to get my oil filter off after having taken it to a quickie oil place during the winter, (hate changing oil when it's freezing out).
Those places tend to use a tool on the oil filter which overtightens it.....should always hand tighten it.
my motor burns oil the same way...let us know when you figure it out
another wierd thing. there was a honda oil filter on it when i went to change it and i swear a friggin cyborg put this thing on.. i barley had any room and i put a big *** dent in the filter before i could get it loose with the wrench. pain in the ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep...hard as hell to get my oil filter off after having taken it to a quickie oil place during the winter, (hate changing oil when it's freezing out).
Those places tend to use a tool on the oil filter which overtightens it.....should always hand tighten it.
my motor burns oil the same way...let us know when you figure it out
a buddy said he saw a little bit of smoke when i was flooring it in third on the freeway.. how can i tell if its oil and how can i tell if its the valve seals or the rings?
Case and point.
Answer this .
DO YOU BEAT ON YOUR CAR?
ARE CONSTANTLY ABOVE 6k RPMS AT FULL THROTTLE?
then you are burning oil.
GSR'S will burn oil if you beat on them.
It's normal, if you go past 3500 miles without changing your oil and beating on the car..you will proably get a VTEC SYSTEM FAILURE code.
If you beat on your car, change the oil every 2500 miles.
Otherwise, your fine.
Answer this .
DO YOU BEAT ON YOUR CAR?
ARE CONSTANTLY ABOVE 6k RPMS AT FULL THROTTLE?
then you are burning oil.
GSR'S will burn oil if you beat on them.
It's normal, if you go past 3500 miles without changing your oil and beating on the car..you will proably get a VTEC SYSTEM FAILURE code.
If you beat on your car, change the oil every 2500 miles.
Otherwise, your fine.
My ITR went through close to 2 quarts of Mobil 0w40 in 3000 miles. I later switched to Royal Purple RP-21 and oil consumption slowed down to a little over half a quart in 3000 miles. It's a common problem with B series engines. Nothing is necessarily wrong with it, that's just what they do.
ok thanks.. thats what i figured.. my 92 teg lost oil too, but i thought it was just a leak i had on the back of the block. It was kind of seeping out of the head gasket in the front too. I didnt know that they normally burned oil at high rpm.. i dont constantly rag on it, but i do take it up every once in a while
.
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HoUTX98GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey cliffjumper, what kind of oil do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've used a couple different ones:
I started out with castrol gtx 5w30 (it's cheap and get's the job done, especially when you're burning, I don't see the point of spending a bunch of money on the higher cost stuff that would burn just as easily.
Then I tried Castrol Start-Up 5w30 (got a great price on a couple cases), this seemed to do a better job at first, but ultimately had the same results as the gtx.
I last put in pennzoil high mileage oil 10w30, and I didn't burn a drop for the first 500 miles which was strange (I also changed my plugs with this last oil change), but at about 750 miles into the oil change, it started to burn again.
I drive normally most of the time, but will excellerate hard sometimes, and did run an autocross. I keep an eye on it, and the car runs fine otherwise.....just don't drive right behind me on the highway if I'm downshifting
I've used a couple different ones:
I started out with castrol gtx 5w30 (it's cheap and get's the job done, especially when you're burning, I don't see the point of spending a bunch of money on the higher cost stuff that would burn just as easily.
Then I tried Castrol Start-Up 5w30 (got a great price on a couple cases), this seemed to do a better job at first, but ultimately had the same results as the gtx.
I last put in pennzoil high mileage oil 10w30, and I didn't burn a drop for the first 500 miles which was strange (I also changed my plugs with this last oil change), but at about 750 miles into the oil change, it started to burn again.
I drive normally most of the time, but will excellerate hard sometimes, and did run an autocross. I keep an eye on it, and the car runs fine otherwise.....just don't drive right behind me on the highway if I'm downshifting
jeez.. that reminds me of this ******* i was following on the freeway one day.. biggest peice of **** ive ever seen.. cant even remember what kind of car..
he hit the gas and a bunch of oil or something sprayed ALL over my car/windshield.. i was so pissed. I almost followed him..
he hit the gas and a bunch of oil or something sprayed ALL over my car/windshield.. i was so pissed. I almost followed him..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HoUTX98GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jeez.. that reminds me of this ******* i was following on the freeway one day.. biggest peice of **** ive ever seen.. cant even remember what kind of car..
he hit the gas and a bunch of oil or something sprayed ALL over my car/windshield.. i was so pissed. I almost followed him..</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, I was exaggerating hence the wink
he hit the gas and a bunch of oil or something sprayed ALL over my car/windshield.. i was so pissed. I almost followed him..</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, I was exaggerating hence the wink
alright... about 500 miles and the oil looks good.... but something else... my buddy said he saw a little white smoke when i was getting on the freeway (WOT). Im afraid it could have a small head gasket leak... ive posted other threads concerning my overheating problem.. its not actually overheating but runs a little higher than normal.. my fans work (kick on and off by themselves
), and everything else seems fine.. i was thinking that it could be a faulty sending unit or guage but now im scared it could be the headgasket. any suggestions on diagnosing it? im going to swap clusters to check the gauge.. other than that.. ???
), and everything else seems fine.. i was thinking that it could be a faulty sending unit or guage but now im scared it could be the headgasket. any suggestions on diagnosing it? im going to swap clusters to check the gauge.. other than that.. ???


