Im a little confsed on the whole bearing deal. I understand that you need to use plastigueage to check the clearances and whatnot, but do you use the plastiguage on the old bearings already in the motor to measure for the new bearings?

Or do you just order a new bearing set and hope that is all checks out so you dont have to order yet another set???

 

Many engine builders use Micrometers to measure exact tolerances for ordering bearings. But others use the numbers stamped on the rods, crank, and block to derive stock bearings sizes. Install then plastiguage to see if all is within specs whichever method use.

Some buy ACL's which is a green equivilent bearing (right in the middle of the bearing scale) and then plasigauge to see if the bearings are within spec. If any of the bearings are out of spec, you can buy the OEM bearing that is larger or smaller to bring it within spec.

OEM's cost $245 for main, rod, and thrust washers.
ACL's cost $80 for main, rod, and thrust washers (and are also trimetal for the LS)

 

ok, so its kinda a shot in the dark then, lol

Im hoping to be able to use the acl bearings and save myself some money, plus i hear that they are just great bearings.

they will be going into an ls block, what do you mean by trimetal????? is that good??? lol

 

Cheap aftermarket bearings are bi-metal. OEM and ACL are tri-metals...better bearing for high performance.

 

I think the OEM LS bearings are bi also, at least on my 2nd gen teg, but the gsr's are tri. Thats why there are some OEM stricklers who will actually buy OEM gsr bearings and modify them to fit in the LS. I am going with the ACL's myself.