cd player/amp with no power
Yeah so my cd player sht off today as I was driving. What happened is the cd deck sometimes slips out of place b/c the spacer is cracked. if I shift hard the entire cd player can slide out...
so i'm driving and the cd player slides out and when i pushed it back in is when it shut off. Did i bust it? I see there is no power light on my amp anymore either. It shouldn't matter if the cd player works, that light should still light up right? I checked all fuses, non are blown. What did my dumbass do?
so i'm driving and the cd player slides out and when i pushed it back in is when it shut off. Did i bust it? I see there is no power light on my amp anymore either. It shouldn't matter if the cd player works, that light should still light up right? I checked all fuses, non are blown. What did my dumbass do?
Ok, so I noticed my clock is out as well. Possibly I missed checking a fuse? I don't have the clear sheet that shows where the actual radio fuse is. DOes anybody have that diagram?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sportyolds »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so I noticed my clock is out as well. Possibly I missed checking a fuse? I don't have the clear sheet that shows where the actual radio fuse is. DOes anybody have that diagram?</TD></TR></TABLE> Check the 7.5A fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
Without knowing what car we are talking about, [a Honda or Acura I assume] when you pushed the HU back into the dash the last time you pinched and shorted the HUs constant power wire, [yellow] or the stock wire it was connected to, [white/blue or white/yellow] you need to pull the HU and make sure it can't short out again, and do NOT replace the 7.5A fuse with a bigger one.
If the HU will not turn on, the amp will not turn on, as it is "triggered" by the HU.
You need to find a way to keep the HU from "popping" out of the dash, maybe a good back brace, make a "L" bracket, mount it to the back of the HU with screw/bolt hole provided, with the bottom of the "L" level with the bottom of the HU, when installed into the dash, the "L" bracket will line up with a hole in the stock rear support bracket, [on most Honda/Acuras].
94
Without knowing what car we are talking about, [a Honda or Acura I assume] when you pushed the HU back into the dash the last time you pinched and shorted the HUs constant power wire, [yellow] or the stock wire it was connected to, [white/blue or white/yellow] you need to pull the HU and make sure it can't short out again, and do NOT replace the 7.5A fuse with a bigger one.
If the HU will not turn on, the amp will not turn on, as it is "triggered" by the HU.
You need to find a way to keep the HU from "popping" out of the dash, maybe a good back brace, make a "L" bracket, mount it to the back of the HU with screw/bolt hole provided, with the bottom of the "L" level with the bottom of the HU, when installed into the dash, the "L" bracket will line up with a hole in the stock rear support bracket, [on most Honda/Acuras].
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Check the 7.5A fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
Without knowing what car we are talking about, [a Honda or Acura I assume] when you pushed the HU back into the dash the last time you pinched and shorted the HUs constant power wire, [yellow] or the stock wire it was connected to, [white/blue or white/yellow] you need to pull the HU and make sure it can't short out again, and do NOT replace the 7.5A fuse with a bigger one.
If the HU will not turn on, the amp will not turn on, as it is "triggered" by the HU.
You need to find a way to keep the HU from "popping" out of the dash, maybe a good back brace, make a "L" bracket, mount it to the back of the HU with screw/bolt hole provided, with the bottom of the "L" level with the bottom of the HU, when installed into the dash, the "L" bracket will line up with a hole in the stock rear support bracket, [on most Honda/Acuras].
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry its a 2000 Integra LS. I could just head over to best buy and pick up the 15 dollar plastic spacer. I'll check the wires again behind the deck and make sure they won't pinch, or short out.
Thanks, I'll check out that engine bay 7.5 fuse. So yeah, its my radio, clock, and my check engine light was on for a long time, but now it isn't and the SRS light is on in the dash now. My violent frustrations I take out on my cd player have finnally caught up to me.
Without knowing what car we are talking about, [a Honda or Acura I assume] when you pushed the HU back into the dash the last time you pinched and shorted the HUs constant power wire, [yellow] or the stock wire it was connected to, [white/blue or white/yellow] you need to pull the HU and make sure it can't short out again, and do NOT replace the 7.5A fuse with a bigger one.
If the HU will not turn on, the amp will not turn on, as it is "triggered" by the HU.
You need to find a way to keep the HU from "popping" out of the dash, maybe a good back brace, make a "L" bracket, mount it to the back of the HU with screw/bolt hole provided, with the bottom of the "L" level with the bottom of the HU, when installed into the dash, the "L" bracket will line up with a hole in the stock rear support bracket, [on most Honda/Acuras].
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry its a 2000 Integra LS. I could just head over to best buy and pick up the 15 dollar plastic spacer. I'll check the wires again behind the deck and make sure they won't pinch, or short out.
Thanks, I'll check out that engine bay 7.5 fuse. So yeah, its my radio, clock, and my check engine light was on for a long time, but now it isn't and the SRS light is on in the dash now. My violent frustrations I take out on my cd player have finnally caught up to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sportyolds »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry its a 2000 Integra LS. I could just head over to best buy and pick up the 15 dollar plastic spacer. I'll check the wires again behind the deck and make sure they won't pinch, or short out.
Thanks, I'll check out that engine bay 7.5 fuse. So yeah, its my radio, clock, and my check engine light was on for a long time, but now it isn't and the SRS light is on in the dash now. My violent frustrations I take out on my cd player have finnally caught up to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea get the kit, but you should still back brace the HU.
Once you have rewired, [to make sure there is no short] and reinstalled the HU, [with a back brace] and it works again. try a reboot, disconnect the pos. (+) and the neg. (-) batt. term. and as long as you do not have a cap on your amp, leave the batt. term. off and touching each other for 5 min. then reconnect, pos. (+) term. first then the neg. (-) term.
BTW what kind of HU and amp, and what is the amp running?
If you are using the HU to power the speakers, [amp running a sub] and it is a "high power" HU, you may want to wire the HUs constant power, [yellow] directly to the batt., [ to get better power to the HU amp] you wire it the same way as your amp, run a 10ga fused power wire from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the yellow to it, [cap off the stock constant power] You will get better SQ.
94
PS.... SVOHU [ stop violance on HUs] lol
Sorry its a 2000 Integra LS. I could just head over to best buy and pick up the 15 dollar plastic spacer. I'll check the wires again behind the deck and make sure they won't pinch, or short out.
Thanks, I'll check out that engine bay 7.5 fuse. So yeah, its my radio, clock, and my check engine light was on for a long time, but now it isn't and the SRS light is on in the dash now. My violent frustrations I take out on my cd player have finnally caught up to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea get the kit, but you should still back brace the HU.
Once you have rewired, [to make sure there is no short] and reinstalled the HU, [with a back brace] and it works again. try a reboot, disconnect the pos. (+) and the neg. (-) batt. term. and as long as you do not have a cap on your amp, leave the batt. term. off and touching each other for 5 min. then reconnect, pos. (+) term. first then the neg. (-) term.
BTW what kind of HU and amp, and what is the amp running?
If you are using the HU to power the speakers, [amp running a sub] and it is a "high power" HU, you may want to wire the HUs constant power, [yellow] directly to the batt., [ to get better power to the HU amp] you wire it the same way as your amp, run a 10ga fused power wire from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the yellow to it, [cap off the stock constant power] You will get better SQ.
94PS.... SVOHU [ stop violance on HUs] lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea get the kit, but you should still back brace the HU.
Once you have rewired, [to make sure there is no short] and reinstalled the HU, [with a back brace] and it works again. try a reboot, disconnect the pos. (+) and the neg. (-) batt. term. and as long as you do not have a cap on your amp, leave the batt. term. off and touching each other for 5 min. then reconnect, pos. (+) term. first then the neg. (-) term.
BTW what kind of HU and amp, and what is the amp running?
If you are using the HU to power the speakers, [amp running a sub] and it is a "high power" HU, you may want to wire the HUs constant power, [yellow] directly to the batt., [ to get better power to the HU amp] you wire it the same way as your amp, run a 10ga fused power wire from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the yellow to it, [cap off the stock constant power] You will get better SQ.
94
PS.... SVOHU [ stop violance on HUs] lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep it was that 7.5 fuse under the hood.
I'm running a panasonic HU 50X4 to the speakers. And yes, my amp is only powering my sub. Its a 300 waat mono rockford amp, running a 12 in. JL W3
Once you have rewired, [to make sure there is no short] and reinstalled the HU, [with a back brace] and it works again. try a reboot, disconnect the pos. (+) and the neg. (-) batt. term. and as long as you do not have a cap on your amp, leave the batt. term. off and touching each other for 5 min. then reconnect, pos. (+) term. first then the neg. (-) term.
BTW what kind of HU and amp, and what is the amp running?
If you are using the HU to power the speakers, [amp running a sub] and it is a "high power" HU, you may want to wire the HUs constant power, [yellow] directly to the batt., [ to get better power to the HU amp] you wire it the same way as your amp, run a 10ga fused power wire from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the yellow to it, [cap off the stock constant power] You will get better SQ.
94PS.... SVOHU [ stop violance on HUs] lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep it was that 7.5 fuse under the hood.
I'm running a panasonic HU 50X4 to the speakers. And yes, my amp is only powering my sub. Its a 300 waat mono rockford amp, running a 12 in. JL W3
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sportyolds »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yep it was that 7.5 fuse under the hood.
I'm running a panasonic HU 50X4 to the speakers. </TD></TR></TABLE> Your HU needs more power, try what I suggested with the power wire from the batt. you will get better sound.
94
Yep it was that 7.5 fuse under the hood.
I'm running a panasonic HU 50X4 to the speakers. </TD></TR></TABLE> Your HU needs more power, try what I suggested with the power wire from the batt. you will get better sound.
94
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