What order of grits sand paper is good to strip paint off my car? Ive never done this before, but i really want to do it myself to save money, and for the experience.
Ive been told to use thick grit paper to strip the paint, then thinner grit when your down to the metal. is there an exact grit i should use???

 

Whoever told you to strip all the paint off needs to be shot. Use 1200 grit wet and then a grey 3m scuff pad with some PPG DX101 paste.

 

go to your local auto parts store. pick i 3m scuff pad. and some "tack" cloths. so scuff your car up pretty good. just get so the clear is almost off. spray it off with a air nozzle. tape it up. use the tack cloth to get the grease off of it.(wipe whole car) and spray it like its 1969

 

Great thanks guys! your info is greatly appretiated.
So why dont i want to strip all the paint off??

 

because existing paint acts as a good base, bare metal needs primer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beaver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because existing paint acts as a good base, bare metal needs primer</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh ok, well what would make the paint look best/last longer? painting over the existing paint, or sanding it down to bare metal, then put primer on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by torqueless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh ok, well what would make the paint look best/last longer? painting over the existing paint, or sanding it down to bare metal, then put primer on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm... I don't know enough about painting to give you a good answer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by torqueless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh ok, well what would make the paint look best/last longer? painting over the existing paint, or sanding it down to bare metal, then put primer on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I am not really sure I have done both, and been happy with the out come. I usually start with wet dry 320 then 400 and then 600 and you should be set, and the places that you cant reach or are a hard shape to sand use a 3M purple pad to scuff up the clear and take the shine off, also you want to use some kind of a flat sanding block with the paper on the flat areas so you keep steady pressure on the area you are sanding so it isn't wavy looking after you paint. Also you want to try to sand out the chips and scratches and then feather them out by block sanding.

 

Ive heard that if you paint over existing paint, that you can end up with orange peel, is that true?

Thanks again for your help guys, and if you have anymore info/tips on prepping, please let me know!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by torqueless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive heard that if you paint over existing paint, that you can end up with orange peel, is that true?

Thanks again for your help guys, and if you have anymore info/tips on prepping, please let me know! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well not that I have heard or have experienced. Maybe if your spray texture is no good, then yes that will happen, but it can be fixed with sanding in between if you do get orange peel. There is nothing wrong with painting over existing paint as long as you have done a good job prepping the surface and it is nice and smooth and flat, and if you think you are going to have problems that's what primer sealers are used for.