Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension
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Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension
Here is the basic parts for a Honda (with a little additional info). Not all of this is needed. But it will give you something to look at while I write up some DIY’s. Other vehicles will need different/additional parts.
Pressure Switch
-Fixed
Just like it sounds. It comes made for one setting (normally 145psi). These pressure switches usually require a relay.
-Adjustable
Again, just like it sounds. I prefer Square D. The kind you would find on a large shop compressor. I normally set them for 165 psi (unless your compressor can’t handle that psi).
Manual Shutoff- This is just an inline switch or a switch with a solenoid. But you better not leave it running for long or forget to turn it on when you need air pressure.
Compressor/s
-Electric compressors
Most common. Slow! They take typically 5min to fill a 5 gal tank from 0-145 psi. They require a larger power supply and make a lot of noise. Viar is a good brand with lots of choices. Get what suits your needs.
-Engine Driven (my personal favorite)
Much faster than electric. The engine has to be running for the compressor to build air pressure. Basically, you will never run out of air while the engine is running.
YORK- requires a new/modified engine mount, air filter, oil, space under the hood, and a compatible belt or pulley for your car. They can be found on a lot of old vehicles at the junkyard for cheap.
Stock A/C Conversion- Lucky you, you have a Honda. This is the cheap and easy option in my opinion. You will lose you’re A/C but it will build 0-165 psi in under 1 min and 120-165 in about 10 sec. You will need to pack the compressor with grease, run new wiring, line to tank, and an air filter.
-Drive Shaft Driven- (must have RWD vehicle) This is where the compressor is operated wit a belt off of the drive shaft. It will only compress air when the vehicle is moving. (DUH)
Air Tank/s
Comes in many sizes with varying number of ports. This is where your compressed air is stored. (DUH) They also come in different materials. Billet is great for reducing rust.
Common-3 and 5 gallon. There are larger sizes but good luck fitting them in a Honda.
Pancake-fits where the spare tire would be.
Custom- Some people make their own to fit in other places.
Valves
This is what lets the air in and out of your cylinders/bags. It requires 2 fills and 2 dumps for front and back. For front/back/side/side you will need 4fills and 4 dumps.
Single-One valve that may be used as a dump or fill. Must be grounded and wired to switch.
3-way- (my favorite) Contains 1 fill and 1 dump combined together. It is easy to stack them together or mount them to a flat surface. Must be grounded and wired to switch.
Manual- The do it your self, no switches, no wire operation. Just buy these at Lowes.
Cylinders/Bags/Strut Bags
Cylinders- (my favorite) Most common on Hondas. Can push and/or pull. Sturdy for hard driving.
Bags- Mostly only used with a front-end drop on a Honda. Only pushes.
Strut Bags- Can be attached directly to strut. Only pushes.
Lines
DOT-This is a cheap plastic line. They split, get soft in heat, pop out of fittings, can't be used between compressor and tank, ect. Can you tell I don’t like them? But they are easy to bend and run.
Braided Steel- Flexible and looks great. Nothing wrong with this but the cost.
Copper- (my favorite) Very durable, looks great if polished, cheap, and fairly easy to run.
Hydraulic-More expensive than DOT but just as easy to work with.
Stainless-Basically hard brake line. Most people prefer this to copper.
Fittings-
Must match size of line and orifice of device.
Push in-Line simply pushes in to fitting.
Compression-fitting tightens on to line by smashing a seal on to the line.
Solder- (my favorite) Used with copper. Melts metal on to fitting and line to create a seal.
Other-Mil, flared, ect.. Just look in the plumbing department at Lowes.
Mounting Hardware-
Custom- Simply cut and weld brackets to hold your cylinder/bags where you want them.
Stock- The cheap route. You can use the stock mounting hardware with a little bit of additional work. Will not work for dampener fork mounts.
Store bought-The easy route. Cost about $200 and will come made for your car.
Switches-
Switch box- Can be bought pre-wired. Easy to install and normally comes with instructions.
Custom Box- Make your own! Use a model car just like yours or get creative.
In dash- Definitely Old G style!
Other-
Switch extensions- Lots of colors and sizes to chose from. You can find these at a truck stop cheap.
Check valve- lets the air flow in one direction only. Some electric compressors come with these built in.
Water Catch- just what it sounds like.
Modified by upallnite at 1:51 AM 6/4/2005
Pressure Switch
-Fixed
Just like it sounds. It comes made for one setting (normally 145psi). These pressure switches usually require a relay.
-Adjustable
Again, just like it sounds. I prefer Square D. The kind you would find on a large shop compressor. I normally set them for 165 psi (unless your compressor can’t handle that psi).
Manual Shutoff- This is just an inline switch or a switch with a solenoid. But you better not leave it running for long or forget to turn it on when you need air pressure.
Compressor/s
-Electric compressors
Most common. Slow! They take typically 5min to fill a 5 gal tank from 0-145 psi. They require a larger power supply and make a lot of noise. Viar is a good brand with lots of choices. Get what suits your needs.
-Engine Driven (my personal favorite)
Much faster than electric. The engine has to be running for the compressor to build air pressure. Basically, you will never run out of air while the engine is running.
YORK- requires a new/modified engine mount, air filter, oil, space under the hood, and a compatible belt or pulley for your car. They can be found on a lot of old vehicles at the junkyard for cheap.
Stock A/C Conversion- Lucky you, you have a Honda. This is the cheap and easy option in my opinion. You will lose you’re A/C but it will build 0-165 psi in under 1 min and 120-165 in about 10 sec. You will need to pack the compressor with grease, run new wiring, line to tank, and an air filter.
-Drive Shaft Driven- (must have RWD vehicle) This is where the compressor is operated wit a belt off of the drive shaft. It will only compress air when the vehicle is moving. (DUH)
Air Tank/s
Comes in many sizes with varying number of ports. This is where your compressed air is stored. (DUH) They also come in different materials. Billet is great for reducing rust.
Common-3 and 5 gallon. There are larger sizes but good luck fitting them in a Honda.
Pancake-fits where the spare tire would be.
Custom- Some people make their own to fit in other places.
Valves
This is what lets the air in and out of your cylinders/bags. It requires 2 fills and 2 dumps for front and back. For front/back/side/side you will need 4fills and 4 dumps.
Single-One valve that may be used as a dump or fill. Must be grounded and wired to switch.
3-way- (my favorite) Contains 1 fill and 1 dump combined together. It is easy to stack them together or mount them to a flat surface. Must be grounded and wired to switch.
Manual- The do it your self, no switches, no wire operation. Just buy these at Lowes.
Cylinders/Bags/Strut Bags
Cylinders- (my favorite) Most common on Hondas. Can push and/or pull. Sturdy for hard driving.
Bags- Mostly only used with a front-end drop on a Honda. Only pushes.
Strut Bags- Can be attached directly to strut. Only pushes.
Lines
DOT-This is a cheap plastic line. They split, get soft in heat, pop out of fittings, can't be used between compressor and tank, ect. Can you tell I don’t like them? But they are easy to bend and run.
Braided Steel- Flexible and looks great. Nothing wrong with this but the cost.
Copper- (my favorite) Very durable, looks great if polished, cheap, and fairly easy to run.
Hydraulic-More expensive than DOT but just as easy to work with.
Stainless-Basically hard brake line. Most people prefer this to copper.
Fittings-
Must match size of line and orifice of device.
Push in-Line simply pushes in to fitting.
Compression-fitting tightens on to line by smashing a seal on to the line.
Solder- (my favorite) Used with copper. Melts metal on to fitting and line to create a seal.
Other-Mil, flared, ect.. Just look in the plumbing department at Lowes.
Mounting Hardware-
Custom- Simply cut and weld brackets to hold your cylinder/bags where you want them.
Stock- The cheap route. You can use the stock mounting hardware with a little bit of additional work. Will not work for dampener fork mounts.
Store bought-The easy route. Cost about $200 and will come made for your car.
Switches-
Switch box- Can be bought pre-wired. Easy to install and normally comes with instructions.
Custom Box- Make your own! Use a model car just like yours or get creative.
In dash- Definitely Old G style!
Other-
Switch extensions- Lots of colors and sizes to chose from. You can find these at a truck stop cheap.
Check valve- lets the air flow in one direction only. Some electric compressors come with these built in.
Water Catch- just what it sounds like.
Modified by upallnite at 1:51 AM 6/4/2005
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
<U>A/C Compressor Conversion For Hondas</U>
Disclaimer
If you need me to post a disclaimer don’t try this. Or just help your smart friend with his.
Time Required
With no instructions and just a little common sence I did my first one bu my self in about 4 hours. After that I could do them in about 1.5-2 hours with the help of a dumb/drunk friend.
Tools
Pipe cutter
Set of metric wrenches/ratchets
Side cutters/wire cutters
Sandwich bag
Screw driver
Dumb friend(a smart drunk friend will work)
Parts
All purpose grease
Enough line to go from you’re a/c compressor to your tank. Any thing but DOT.
Check valve
Water catch
Small filter (like the one everybody puts on top of their valve cover)
16 AWG wire
Fittings that fit your line, compressor out line, and tank.
Step 1 Remove The Junk
Find you’re a/c.
Let all the pressure out of the a/c lines.(I just loosened a compression fitting a little and let it leak out). WARNING: This may be a good job for your dumb friend.
Remove all the a/c parts but the compressor. Including the lines going into the compressor.
Step 2 Greasing Your Compressor
Now to fill that compressor with grease. Fill half the sandwich bag with grease and cut a small hole in a corner. Cut the wire going to the a/c clutch. Run a short wire from that wire to the + side of the battery. Squeeze grease into the intake port as the compressor sucks it in. WARNING: Another good job for your dumb friend. When there is no grease left in the bag or grease comes out the outlet port you are done. Remove the wire from the battery and clutch and turn the car off.
Step 2 Alternate Safe Way
Remove the compressor. Turn the clutch by hand as you squeeze grease into inlet port. Once grease comes out the outlet port reinstall the compressor and whatever you had to remove to get it out.
Step 3 Wiring
Run a wire from your fuse box (use an empty low amp slot) to your pressure switch. Then run another wire from the pressure switch to the clutch. Keep your pressure switch off for now.
Step 4 Inlet Filter
Take the stock line that went into the inlet port and cut it with the pipe cutter. Leave yourself a few inches. Attach the filter to the line. Put the line back on the compressor.
Step 5 Line To Tank
You can either find a fitting that fits your stock line and your new line or you can cut the stock line at the metal and use a compression fitting to change over to your new line. I like using the compression fitting. Before you hook your line up turn the compressor on for a few minutes to spit the extra grease out. Then run your line under the car to the tank. Don’t forget your check valve and water catch at the tank.
Step 6 Enjoy
Go for a ride around town hittin switches like your crazy.
Disclaimer
If you need me to post a disclaimer don’t try this. Or just help your smart friend with his.
Time Required
With no instructions and just a little common sence I did my first one bu my self in about 4 hours. After that I could do them in about 1.5-2 hours with the help of a dumb/drunk friend.
Tools
Pipe cutter
Set of metric wrenches/ratchets
Side cutters/wire cutters
Sandwich bag
Screw driver
Dumb friend(a smart drunk friend will work)
Parts
All purpose grease
Enough line to go from you’re a/c compressor to your tank. Any thing but DOT.
Check valve
Water catch
Small filter (like the one everybody puts on top of their valve cover)
16 AWG wire
Fittings that fit your line, compressor out line, and tank.
Step 1 Remove The Junk
Find you’re a/c.
Let all the pressure out of the a/c lines.(I just loosened a compression fitting a little and let it leak out). WARNING: This may be a good job for your dumb friend.
Remove all the a/c parts but the compressor. Including the lines going into the compressor.
Step 2 Greasing Your Compressor
Now to fill that compressor with grease. Fill half the sandwich bag with grease and cut a small hole in a corner. Cut the wire going to the a/c clutch. Run a short wire from that wire to the + side of the battery. Squeeze grease into the intake port as the compressor sucks it in. WARNING: Another good job for your dumb friend. When there is no grease left in the bag or grease comes out the outlet port you are done. Remove the wire from the battery and clutch and turn the car off.
Step 2 Alternate Safe Way
Remove the compressor. Turn the clutch by hand as you squeeze grease into inlet port. Once grease comes out the outlet port reinstall the compressor and whatever you had to remove to get it out.
Step 3 Wiring
Run a wire from your fuse box (use an empty low amp slot) to your pressure switch. Then run another wire from the pressure switch to the clutch. Keep your pressure switch off for now.
Step 4 Inlet Filter
Take the stock line that went into the inlet port and cut it with the pipe cutter. Leave yourself a few inches. Attach the filter to the line. Put the line back on the compressor.
Step 5 Line To Tank
You can either find a fitting that fits your stock line and your new line or you can cut the stock line at the metal and use a compression fitting to change over to your new line. I like using the compression fitting. Before you hook your line up turn the compressor on for a few minutes to spit the extra grease out. Then run your line under the car to the tank. Don’t forget your check valve and water catch at the tank.
Step 6 Enjoy
Go for a ride around town hittin switches like your crazy.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
<U>How to install air suspension</U> (Basic FBSS)
Time Required
About 6 hours if you have a few friends. (Bribe them with beer and pizza if you have to.)
Money Saved
Most custom shops will charge $1,000-$1,500 plus parts for a basic install.
Tools
-metric and standard wrenches
-wire cutters/crimps
-screw drivers
-jack and jack stands
-teflon tape (your new best friend)
-couple of blocks of wood.
-zip ties
-camera (just nice to have on any build)
-$100 for nuts, bolts, wire connectors, all the last minute little things.
1. Before your build day decide where you want your tank, compressor, and valves. Install plugs in any holes in your tank your not going to use. Put the mufflers on your cylinders. Then take a picture of your car at its current height.
2. Mount your tank(with pressure switch), compressor, and valves. I like to put the valves on the rear bumper under the bumper cover(for the rear) and in the engine bay (for the front).
3. Run your piping. Connect your compressor to the tank with some hard line or braided steel. Don’t forget your water catch and check valve. Run your line from the tank to your valves.
4. Ground your valves and your compressor.
5. Run your wire from your power source to your pressure switch. NOTE: Do not attach the wire to your power source yet. Then run your wire from your pressure switch to your compressor. I like to use speaker wire. Make sure you are using the size wire the manufacture requires. Some pressure switches require a relay. But I just use a Square D pressure switch to make things easy to work with.
6. Switch box! I like to wire it up under the back seat. Should be using 16 awg. Mark all your wires before you run them. Run your power wire from your power source to your back seat. Now run all your valve power wires to your back seat. The company that you got your switchbox from should have sent wireing instructions. If not your going to have to wait until the test phase to wire your box.
7. Now were getting into the fun stuff. Jack up the rear of the car and put your jack stands in place. Remove the rims. Unbolt the bottom of your strut. Un bolt the top of the strut and remove it. Put the upper mounting plate on the rear cylinders and bolt them suckers in at the top. Make sure the filter is clear of hitting anything. Then bolt up the lower mount. The lowest hole on the mount is for that extra little bit of lift so that you don’t drag your fart can. I always use the highest hole because I like dragging exhaust. Now run your lines to the upper port of the cylinders. Put the rims on and put those blocks of wood under the tires. Belive me you will need them to get the jack out. Have a buddy lower the car while you watch the rims camber in and start to tuck.
8. Repeat #7 for the front.
9. Test phase. If you didn’t have any instructions for your switch box this is when you need to do your guess and check work. The red wire is normally the power. Now attach your compressor wire to your power source. Time the compressor to make sure it dose not run longer than it is supposed to. Now check for leaks. Air the car up and check for leaks again. Leave the car up while you have a beer with your friends. When done come back and check to see if any air has leaked out of cylinders.
10. Make sure everything is clear of moving or hot parts. Then take your car for a test drive (if your sober) and practice with your new switches.
Time Required
About 6 hours if you have a few friends. (Bribe them with beer and pizza if you have to.)
Money Saved
Most custom shops will charge $1,000-$1,500 plus parts for a basic install.
Tools
-metric and standard wrenches
-wire cutters/crimps
-screw drivers
-jack and jack stands
-teflon tape (your new best friend)
-couple of blocks of wood.
-zip ties
-camera (just nice to have on any build)
-$100 for nuts, bolts, wire connectors, all the last minute little things.
1. Before your build day decide where you want your tank, compressor, and valves. Install plugs in any holes in your tank your not going to use. Put the mufflers on your cylinders. Then take a picture of your car at its current height.
2. Mount your tank(with pressure switch), compressor, and valves. I like to put the valves on the rear bumper under the bumper cover(for the rear) and in the engine bay (for the front).
3. Run your piping. Connect your compressor to the tank with some hard line or braided steel. Don’t forget your water catch and check valve. Run your line from the tank to your valves.
4. Ground your valves and your compressor.
5. Run your wire from your power source to your pressure switch. NOTE: Do not attach the wire to your power source yet. Then run your wire from your pressure switch to your compressor. I like to use speaker wire. Make sure you are using the size wire the manufacture requires. Some pressure switches require a relay. But I just use a Square D pressure switch to make things easy to work with.
6. Switch box! I like to wire it up under the back seat. Should be using 16 awg. Mark all your wires before you run them. Run your power wire from your power source to your back seat. Now run all your valve power wires to your back seat. The company that you got your switchbox from should have sent wireing instructions. If not your going to have to wait until the test phase to wire your box.
7. Now were getting into the fun stuff. Jack up the rear of the car and put your jack stands in place. Remove the rims. Unbolt the bottom of your strut. Un bolt the top of the strut and remove it. Put the upper mounting plate on the rear cylinders and bolt them suckers in at the top. Make sure the filter is clear of hitting anything. Then bolt up the lower mount. The lowest hole on the mount is for that extra little bit of lift so that you don’t drag your fart can. I always use the highest hole because I like dragging exhaust. Now run your lines to the upper port of the cylinders. Put the rims on and put those blocks of wood under the tires. Belive me you will need them to get the jack out. Have a buddy lower the car while you watch the rims camber in and start to tuck.
8. Repeat #7 for the front.
9. Test phase. If you didn’t have any instructions for your switch box this is when you need to do your guess and check work. The red wire is normally the power. Now attach your compressor wire to your power source. Time the compressor to make sure it dose not run longer than it is supposed to. Now check for leaks. Air the car up and check for leaks again. Leave the car up while you have a beer with your friends. When done come back and check to see if any air has leaked out of cylinders.
10. Make sure everything is clear of moving or hot parts. Then take your car for a test drive (if your sober) and practice with your new switches.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2005
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
Well I guess everyone should put the lambo doors back on the lambos, the shaved handles back on the hot rods, and the wings back on the planes. So why are you being so close minded. No need to try to make this a hate thread. I am trying to help a few people here out with some information. Trying to start something woln't make me stop. Because I enjoy helping people.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 135
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
Hello fellow prelude driver,
Welcome to the dark side.
The best way to buy what you need is to first decide what you want the air to do. Some things to consider is do you want it to hop, dogleg, drag, hit sides, or a basic front back. Preludes can do some monster doglegs. Knowing what you want will save you a lot of money in the long run. Just don’t get to cheap or it will cost you a lot more in the long run.
If you search long enough you can find a used setup cheap. I bought a complete setup (minus 1 cylinder) once for $250. I would not pay more than half price for any used air parts. I have a lot of extra parts in the garage I save for building friends rides.
THIS IS THE CHEAP WAY!!!
Cylinders
Get some cylinders from Master Image Customs (714)970.9488 (http://www.masterimagecustoms.com/store/airworx.html ). They can be rebuilt if they ever give you a problem. They are about $150 each. If that is to much call AIM they have cylinders for $100 each. But AIM is well known for cheaper quality. 800-842-8789 http://airbagit-store.com/default.asp?redir=1 I ran some used AIM cylinders on my accord for a year with no problems. But I have heard a lot of complaints about the company from people.
WARNING: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/...pp=30
Also buy mufflers for each cylinder. You can also pick up mufflers at lowes. I like to use 3” in the rear and 3.25 in the front. Most people use 4” in the front.
Brackets
As for the mounting brackets. Use the upper mounts off of the stock shocks. You will need to drill holes for the cylinders to mount to and cut the sleeve sticking up off. For the lower mount in the rear just weld up a bracket in a U shape. Make this bracket as short as you can. Drill holes to mount to your knuckle (where the shock mounted). And drill a hole for the cylinder to mount to. Use two nuts to hold the cylinder to the lower bracket. For the front lower bracket weld a nut (that fits the cylinder) to a large washer then weld the washer to a thick pipe (that fits in the front forks). When grinding and welding do not over heat the nut or the threads will warp. (I made that mistake on my first home made brackets.) Put the bracket in the fork then screw the cylinder into the nut. The brackets should cost you about $30 in material. I have a lit of scrap metal around my house so I don’t know an exact cost.
Compressor
Now you will need to convert the A/C to an air compressor. It is in this topic above.
3-way valves 0nly
You could also go with manual but I really don’t like them.
1=All (not very good or safe)
2=front/back
4=front/back/side/side (one pre cylinder)
5=f/b/s/s +dog leg one side
6=f/b/s/s +dogleg both sides
8=f/b/s/s +monster doglegs + 3-wheel if you have enough weight in the back of the car.
For the cheap route buy two 3-way valves from AIM. Should be about $80 each. Not the best quality but they are the cheapest for my favorite type of valves.
Pressure Switch
If you can get to a large minitruck show you can pick one up for $25. If not go to a tool store and get one for $50-$60. Go to lowes and get a ¼ male-male to screw into your air tank.
Wire
Go to an electrical supplier an pick up a role of 16 AWG for $20. Way more than what you need but it is cheap. I also like to use UR connectors.
Line
Go to NAPA and get some DOT if you don’t live in a hot climate. 20” should be enough for a prelude. In a hot climate you will probably have to go with copper from a plumbing store.
Fittings
Don’t get to cheap or you will regret it. Use compression. It will cost a little more but it will hold up a lot better.
Tank
Get a 3 gal with 3-4 ports. Should be about $50.
Switches
Lots to chose from. But the cheapest way is to buy some two throw switches from advance and wire up each valve seperate then mount the switches where ever you want them.
I am sure I am forgetting something but it is late and I have to get back to work before anybody notices what I am really doing. I will also add this to h-t so that it will help others out. If I left anything out or you want some better info let me know.
Modified by upallnite at 4:32 AM 6/23/2005
Welcome to the dark side.
The best way to buy what you need is to first decide what you want the air to do. Some things to consider is do you want it to hop, dogleg, drag, hit sides, or a basic front back. Preludes can do some monster doglegs. Knowing what you want will save you a lot of money in the long run. Just don’t get to cheap or it will cost you a lot more in the long run.
If you search long enough you can find a used setup cheap. I bought a complete setup (minus 1 cylinder) once for $250. I would not pay more than half price for any used air parts. I have a lot of extra parts in the garage I save for building friends rides.
THIS IS THE CHEAP WAY!!!
Cylinders
Get some cylinders from Master Image Customs (714)970.9488 (http://www.masterimagecustoms.com/store/airworx.html ). They can be rebuilt if they ever give you a problem. They are about $150 each. If that is to much call AIM they have cylinders for $100 each. But AIM is well known for cheaper quality. 800-842-8789 http://airbagit-store.com/default.asp?redir=1 I ran some used AIM cylinders on my accord for a year with no problems. But I have heard a lot of complaints about the company from people.
WARNING: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/...pp=30
Also buy mufflers for each cylinder. You can also pick up mufflers at lowes. I like to use 3” in the rear and 3.25 in the front. Most people use 4” in the front.
Brackets
As for the mounting brackets. Use the upper mounts off of the stock shocks. You will need to drill holes for the cylinders to mount to and cut the sleeve sticking up off. For the lower mount in the rear just weld up a bracket in a U shape. Make this bracket as short as you can. Drill holes to mount to your knuckle (where the shock mounted). And drill a hole for the cylinder to mount to. Use two nuts to hold the cylinder to the lower bracket. For the front lower bracket weld a nut (that fits the cylinder) to a large washer then weld the washer to a thick pipe (that fits in the front forks). When grinding and welding do not over heat the nut or the threads will warp. (I made that mistake on my first home made brackets.) Put the bracket in the fork then screw the cylinder into the nut. The brackets should cost you about $30 in material. I have a lit of scrap metal around my house so I don’t know an exact cost.
Compressor
Now you will need to convert the A/C to an air compressor. It is in this topic above.
3-way valves 0nly
You could also go with manual but I really don’t like them.
1=All (not very good or safe)
2=front/back
4=front/back/side/side (one pre cylinder)
5=f/b/s/s +dog leg one side
6=f/b/s/s +dogleg both sides
8=f/b/s/s +monster doglegs + 3-wheel if you have enough weight in the back of the car.
For the cheap route buy two 3-way valves from AIM. Should be about $80 each. Not the best quality but they are the cheapest for my favorite type of valves.
Pressure Switch
If you can get to a large minitruck show you can pick one up for $25. If not go to a tool store and get one for $50-$60. Go to lowes and get a ¼ male-male to screw into your air tank.
Wire
Go to an electrical supplier an pick up a role of 16 AWG for $20. Way more than what you need but it is cheap. I also like to use UR connectors.
Line
Go to NAPA and get some DOT if you don’t live in a hot climate. 20” should be enough for a prelude. In a hot climate you will probably have to go with copper from a plumbing store.
Fittings
Don’t get to cheap or you will regret it. Use compression. It will cost a little more but it will hold up a lot better.
Tank
Get a 3 gal with 3-4 ports. Should be about $50.
Switches
Lots to chose from. But the cheapest way is to buy some two throw switches from advance and wire up each valve seperate then mount the switches where ever you want them.
I am sure I am forgetting something but it is late and I have to get back to work before anybody notices what I am really doing. I will also add this to h-t so that it will help others out. If I left anything out or you want some better info let me know.
Modified by upallnite at 4:32 AM 6/23/2005
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Joined: May 2005
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
<U>How to make your Honda dog leg</U>!
This can be done to either side or both sides. For huge doglegs do the same thing for the front tires as well as the back.
Time
About 1 hr. Add about 10 min per beer you have consumed.
Tools
Wrenches
Wire cutters
Pipe cutters
Common sense
Parts
1 3-way valve or 2 single valves
line of your choice
various fitting that match your line and parts
wire
Disclaimer
If you have any problems with this setup please call my assistant Helen Wait at 1-900-555-7396.
You have to have a f/b/s/s air suspension.
1st jack the car up and remove the rear tire you want to dogleg.
2nd let the air out of your tank and cylinders.
3rd tap into the air line between your tank and valves with a t fitting.
4th mount your valve setup (1 3-way or 1 dump and 1 fill) and run your line from the t to the valve setup.
5th run your line from your valve setup to the bottom of your cylinder (where the filter goes).
6th ground your valve setup.
7th wire the dump for the lower valve with the fill for the upper valve of the same tire.
8th wire the fill for the lower valve with the dump for the upper valve of the same tire.
9th put the tire back, lower the car, and fill the air back up.
10th Once the tank is full, air the car all the way up. Check for leaks. Drop the opposite front corner that you just hooked up. IE: If you made the left rear tire dog leg you need to drop the right front. Then hit the down (dump) switch for the rear tire you just hooked up. Stand back and look at your tire off the ground and tucked up in the finder. Feel free to give it a little spin.
Optional
11th place beer can under tire that is now in the air and hit the fill switch for that tire. Lots of fun with a half full beer and an unsuspecting friend.
This can be done to either side or both sides. For huge doglegs do the same thing for the front tires as well as the back.
Time
About 1 hr. Add about 10 min per beer you have consumed.
Tools
Wrenches
Wire cutters
Pipe cutters
Common sense
Parts
1 3-way valve or 2 single valves
line of your choice
various fitting that match your line and parts
wire
Disclaimer
If you have any problems with this setup please call my assistant Helen Wait at 1-900-555-7396.
You have to have a f/b/s/s air suspension.
1st jack the car up and remove the rear tire you want to dogleg.
2nd let the air out of your tank and cylinders.
3rd tap into the air line between your tank and valves with a t fitting.
4th mount your valve setup (1 3-way or 1 dump and 1 fill) and run your line from the t to the valve setup.
5th run your line from your valve setup to the bottom of your cylinder (where the filter goes).
6th ground your valve setup.
7th wire the dump for the lower valve with the fill for the upper valve of the same tire.
8th wire the fill for the lower valve with the dump for the upper valve of the same tire.
9th put the tire back, lower the car, and fill the air back up.
10th Once the tank is full, air the car all the way up. Check for leaks. Drop the opposite front corner that you just hooked up. IE: If you made the left rear tire dog leg you need to drop the right front. Then hit the down (dump) switch for the rear tire you just hooked up. Stand back and look at your tire off the ground and tucked up in the finder. Feel free to give it a little spin.
Optional
11th place beer can under tire that is now in the air and hit the fill switch for that tire. Lots of fun with a half full beer and an unsuspecting friend.
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (Rice-Boy)
I spend 8 hours at work with little or nothing to do but think of what I am going to do to my cars when I get home. While sitting in front of a computer of course. Doing nothing pays pretty good. 
Thread Starter
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
Next DIY is going to be how to make those cylinders lay the car even lower.
By the way rice-boy I have never seen write ups on any of this before I have been writing this stuff out of memory of what we do in my garage. Right now I am working on my civic and making my girlfriends Neon hop. NEVER BUY A NEON!!!! They sucK! half the fuses poped out of the fuse block the first time we hoped it. Well I am about to get off work so have a nice weekend.
By the way rice-boy I have never seen write ups on any of this before I have been writing this stuff out of memory of what we do in my garage. Right now I am working on my civic and making my girlfriends Neon hop. NEVER BUY A NEON!!!! They sucK! half the fuses poped out of the fuse block the first time we hoped it. Well I am about to get off work so have a nice weekend.
Re: (Bay_707)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bay_707 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would be cool if it was because peoples cars are too low to go over speed bumps and they need to change their height but you are talking about jumping them which is just gay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the most ignorant thing I have ever heard, especially coming from someone who modifies Honda's/Acura's. You should know first hand how people bash modifying 1.6L SOHC 127hp engines or B series. Everyone likes different things. Not everyone would agree with what almost 100% of the people do on this site but does that make YOU "gay" for what you do? How could you be so closed minded. Some people like to do low rider cars or tricks or whatever. Im not to familiar with it but if thats what he likes, thats cool with me. Im always willing to learn and read about it and I find this thread very interesting even though I have no desire to get air suspension. I respect him for doing this and liking it and taking his time to try and teach us. He put a lot of time and effort into typing that to try and help people who are interested and all you have to say is thats "gay". Real smart, intelligent, needed post. I bet you would be the first to get all pissy when someone says your integra is gay and stupid but your the first to shut down someone else for liking something you dont. It really gets me mad when comments like this are made. Everyone has different tastes. If you dont like it then don't reply.
This is the most ignorant thing I have ever heard, especially coming from someone who modifies Honda's/Acura's. You should know first hand how people bash modifying 1.6L SOHC 127hp engines or B series. Everyone likes different things. Not everyone would agree with what almost 100% of the people do on this site but does that make YOU "gay" for what you do? How could you be so closed minded. Some people like to do low rider cars or tricks or whatever. Im not to familiar with it but if thats what he likes, thats cool with me. Im always willing to learn and read about it and I find this thread very interesting even though I have no desire to get air suspension. I respect him for doing this and liking it and taking his time to try and teach us. He put a lot of time and effort into typing that to try and help people who are interested and all you have to say is thats "gay". Real smart, intelligent, needed post. I bet you would be the first to get all pissy when someone says your integra is gay and stupid but your the first to shut down someone else for liking something you dont. It really gets me mad when comments like this are made. Everyone has different tastes. If you dont like it then don't reply.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 71
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From: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Re: (TurboEM1)
Hey man good thread I have been waiting for a thread on air suspension to pop up for a while!
I recently bought a 'as new' condition EAI air cylinder advanced stage kit ( two thomas compressors, larger lines, 2 x 5 Gal tanks etc) that was off a 93 civic for my 95 Honda Accord.
Now my question is does this kit have a good reputation in the USA?
A shop here in Australia stated that the EAI air cylinders are garbage, and that they are just industrial style cylinders, that will give you a poor ride etc etc
From my research before I bought the kit, the EAI kits were regarded as 'top shelf'????
Do you know what mounts I will have to modify to fit the civic mounts onto my accord?
According to the hack shop in texas, the front mounts will just have to be redrilled to suit my accord, and the rest should all fit up ok.
I look forward to reading more posts in future on this thread, and hopefully more people will start posting up some replys in regards to their experiences with air in their Hondas!!!
I recently bought a 'as new' condition EAI air cylinder advanced stage kit ( two thomas compressors, larger lines, 2 x 5 Gal tanks etc) that was off a 93 civic for my 95 Honda Accord.
Now my question is does this kit have a good reputation in the USA?
A shop here in Australia stated that the EAI air cylinders are garbage, and that they are just industrial style cylinders, that will give you a poor ride etc etc
From my research before I bought the kit, the EAI kits were regarded as 'top shelf'????
Do you know what mounts I will have to modify to fit the civic mounts onto my accord?
According to the hack shop in texas, the front mounts will just have to be redrilled to suit my accord, and the rest should all fit up ok.
I look forward to reading more posts in future on this thread, and hopefully more people will start posting up some replys in regards to their experiences with air in their Hondas!!!
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
Dr. Jekl,
Take everything apart and clean it with air tool oil. Check the piston walls and pistons to make sure they were not damaged. What valves do you have? A buddy of mine had a used (like new)dc5000 compressor that cised on him and damn near blew his trunklid off. As for the cylinders are they blue and gray(X-air) or just grey. I think the all grey ones are not rebuildable. Mounting brackets ar pretty much universal for hondas. I will look at my civic and accord and see what the diffrence is but I think the studs line up diffrently or with less studs. Pretty simple fix either way. Just drill more holes. EAI dose not make there cylinders with internal bump stops unless you order them like that. But you could always make your own bump stops since you will have them apart anyways. That is probly why that shop said they have a poor ride. Or maybe that shop dosn't know what they are doing. EAI has mixed feelings. But what can you expect out of a $100 cylinder. Make sure the shaft dose not have to much binding on them or it will wear out the lower seal.
Take everything apart and clean it with air tool oil. Check the piston walls and pistons to make sure they were not damaged. What valves do you have? A buddy of mine had a used (like new)dc5000 compressor that cised on him and damn near blew his trunklid off. As for the cylinders are they blue and gray(X-air) or just grey. I think the all grey ones are not rebuildable. Mounting brackets ar pretty much universal for hondas. I will look at my civic and accord and see what the diffrence is but I think the studs line up diffrently or with less studs. Pretty simple fix either way. Just drill more holes. EAI dose not make there cylinders with internal bump stops unless you order them like that. But you could always make your own bump stops since you will have them apart anyways. That is probly why that shop said they have a poor ride. Or maybe that shop dosn't know what they are doing. EAI has mixed feelings. But what can you expect out of a $100 cylinder. Make sure the shaft dose not have to much binding on them or it will wear out the lower seal.
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
<U>How to make that car even lower</U>
WARNING: If you have a body kit you are not low you just look low. This DIY will probly mess up your kit. If you have large rims (17s might even hit) be prepared to tub your wheel wells. 4 door cars with large rims will have to cut into the rear door to make clerance for the back wheels when laid out.
Time
Depends on how far you take it.
Tools
Every thing you have.
Disclaimer
Blah blah blah
OK lets start wit the rear.
The back is pretty simple.
Remove any bushings between the upper mounting bracket and body of the car. If you ever used them. On the lower bracket use the highest hole. Now to get that little bit extra you can build your own lower control arm to move the mounting point lower. The best way is to make a jig with the stock control arm and use the jig to weld your own. You can also buy some but I have never tried aftermarket control arms. If this just ain’t low enough for you. Your are going to have to relocate the upper mounting point. If you still aren’t low enough you are out of the scope of this topic and getting into body drops and cantilevers.
Front has a few more options.
1. DROP FORKS these are shorter forks for the lower mounting point of the cylinders. I have heared people say some aftermarket ones broke on them but I haven’t seen it yet. Since most Hondas can only have 2” removed I suggest sectioning a set from a junk yard and getting them professionally welded.
2. LOWER CONTROLL ARM Same concept as in the rear. But make sure your forks don’t hit the axle.
3. SHAVING THE FORKS Simply grind down the top of the fork until you get close to the screw that clamps it down. Should get about ¾ - 1 inch out of this.
4. BAGIN THE FRONT
Now it gets tricky. When you do this be sure to watch your hood clerance. (cannot be used with the previous 3 ways to lower the front)Cut the wheel well to expose the upper control arm. Weld mounting points to the control arm for your bag. Put the bags in upside down. Place an upper bag mount on top of the bags. Compress the bags and get some measurements between the bags. Now you need to put a bar between the two mounts to stabalize it like a strut bar. Now that you have this long bar attached to the upper bag mounts you need to make some mounts to the body. I susgest making the mounts go to where the upper control arm mounts and reinforce the other side so that you can still pull the engine from the top if you ever need to. But it is all up to you.
5. OTHER Tubed front clips and swaped front clips. I have seen these done but it seem a little extreme to me. Have fun if your doing this because you are a lot braver than me.
This is all I have for tonight but stay tuned while I work on a write up for cantilevers.
WARNING: If you have a body kit you are not low you just look low. This DIY will probly mess up your kit. If you have large rims (17s might even hit) be prepared to tub your wheel wells. 4 door cars with large rims will have to cut into the rear door to make clerance for the back wheels when laid out.
Time
Depends on how far you take it.
Tools
Every thing you have.
Disclaimer
Blah blah blah
OK lets start wit the rear.
The back is pretty simple.
Remove any bushings between the upper mounting bracket and body of the car. If you ever used them. On the lower bracket use the highest hole. Now to get that little bit extra you can build your own lower control arm to move the mounting point lower. The best way is to make a jig with the stock control arm and use the jig to weld your own. You can also buy some but I have never tried aftermarket control arms. If this just ain’t low enough for you. Your are going to have to relocate the upper mounting point. If you still aren’t low enough you are out of the scope of this topic and getting into body drops and cantilevers.
Front has a few more options.
1. DROP FORKS these are shorter forks for the lower mounting point of the cylinders. I have heared people say some aftermarket ones broke on them but I haven’t seen it yet. Since most Hondas can only have 2” removed I suggest sectioning a set from a junk yard and getting them professionally welded.
2. LOWER CONTROLL ARM Same concept as in the rear. But make sure your forks don’t hit the axle.
3. SHAVING THE FORKS Simply grind down the top of the fork until you get close to the screw that clamps it down. Should get about ¾ - 1 inch out of this.
4. BAGIN THE FRONT
Now it gets tricky. When you do this be sure to watch your hood clerance. (cannot be used with the previous 3 ways to lower the front)Cut the wheel well to expose the upper control arm. Weld mounting points to the control arm for your bag. Put the bags in upside down. Place an upper bag mount on top of the bags. Compress the bags and get some measurements between the bags. Now you need to put a bar between the two mounts to stabalize it like a strut bar. Now that you have this long bar attached to the upper bag mounts you need to make some mounts to the body. I susgest making the mounts go to where the upper control arm mounts and reinforce the other side so that you can still pull the engine from the top if you ever need to. But it is all up to you. 5. OTHER Tubed front clips and swaped front clips. I have seen these done but it seem a little extreme to me. Have fun if your doing this because you are a lot braver than me.
This is all I have for tonight but stay tuned while I work on a write up for cantilevers.
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
O.K. I just saw this and I don't think AIM would be a good place to buy your parts.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/...pp=30
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/...pp=30
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 71
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From: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
Yeah the cylinders I have are the ones with the grey body and blue tops, and it is basically brand new. How much of a job is it to take them all apart? do u think it would be still worthwhile if they are such good condition? I guess if one stuffs up in my car it will be a bigger hassle, geting it out and resealing it 
On EAI website the cylinders were like over $200 RRP??? The shop stated that these cylinders had no 'shocks' and would give me a ride like taking out the shocks in my car and riding on the springs only. To be honest the guy was a bit of a ******, basically he wanted me to buy his kit (ground zero)
Does anyone here run the EAI cylinder setup? I cant believe there isnt anyone else posting up anything on here? maybe the guys on air hang out on the trucker forums????
Have you had the chance to look at your accord and civic and compare the mounts yet man?
On EAI website the cylinders were like over $200 RRP??? The shop stated that these cylinders had no 'shocks' and would give me a ride like taking out the shocks in my car and riding on the springs only. To be honest the guy was a bit of a ******, basically he wanted me to buy his kit (ground zero)
Does anyone here run the EAI cylinder setup? I cant believe there isnt anyone else posting up anything on here? maybe the guys on air hang out on the trucker forums????
Have you had the chance to look at your accord and civic and compare the mounts yet man?
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah the cylinders I have are the ones with the grey body and blue tops, and it is basically brand new. How much of a job is it to take them all apart? do u think it would be still worthwhile if they are such good condition? I guess if one stuffs up in my car it will be a bigger hassle, geting it out and resealing it </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can test the cylinder if you don't want to risk taking it apart. I will do a write up on how to test a cylinder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On EAI website the cylinders were like over $200 RRP??? The shop stated that these cylinders had no 'shocks' and would give me a ride like taking out the shocks in my car and riding on the springs only. To be honest the guy was a bit of a ******, basically he wanted me to buy his kit (ground zero)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only if you ride in the middle position and the air volume is high enough to create a resistance to the force applied (this is why accumulators help). If you ride nearly all the way up or down the cylinder will top or bottom out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone here run the EAI cylinder setup? I cant believe there isnt anyone else posting up anything on here? maybe the guys on air hang out on the trucker forums????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn you found me out!!! I am realy a minitrucker that hapens to own a few Hondas. LOL Most people pick on us for being on a site like this but I don't listen to e-thugs. I go to one site I realy like but it is mostly trucks. Check out streetsourcemag.com. Look me up I have the same name there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you had the chance to look at your accord and civic and compare the mounts yet man? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry forgot about that. I took an extra upper mount from my 95 accord (RIP) and it fit my 93 civic.
Modified by upallnite at 11:35 PM 6/25/2005
You can test the cylinder if you don't want to risk taking it apart. I will do a write up on how to test a cylinder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On EAI website the cylinders were like over $200 RRP??? The shop stated that these cylinders had no 'shocks' and would give me a ride like taking out the shocks in my car and riding on the springs only. To be honest the guy was a bit of a ******, basically he wanted me to buy his kit (ground zero)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only if you ride in the middle position and the air volume is high enough to create a resistance to the force applied (this is why accumulators help). If you ride nearly all the way up or down the cylinder will top or bottom out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone here run the EAI cylinder setup? I cant believe there isnt anyone else posting up anything on here? maybe the guys on air hang out on the trucker forums????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn you found me out!!! I am realy a minitrucker that hapens to own a few Hondas. LOL Most people pick on us for being on a site like this but I don't listen to e-thugs. I go to one site I realy like but it is mostly trucks. Check out streetsourcemag.com. Look me up I have the same name there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DR-JEKL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you had the chance to look at your accord and civic and compare the mounts yet man? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry forgot about that. I took an extra upper mount from my 95 accord (RIP) and it fit my 93 civic.
Modified by upallnite at 11:35 PM 6/25/2005
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Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
How to test the inner seal without taking a cylinder apart.
Disclaimer:
Cylinders will leak air if the rubber rings have dried out. It is a good idea to add a little oil to keep this from happening.
1. With the cylinder removed put an adjustable filter on the port opposite the shaft.
2. Using the filter lock the piston in the middle position.
3. Put some air tool oil in the other port. You don’t need to fill it up just enough so that it would leak if the cylinder wall is damaged or the piston rings are badly worn.
4. Let it sit for about an hour.
5. drain the excess oil out.
6. remove the adjustable filter and check for oil.
If you find oil than you need to take it apart and check the cylinder. You can get a rebuild kit for most cylinders if the rings are bad. If the cylinder wall is damaged you will need to examine why it was not throwing right and get a new cylinder.
Disclaimer:
Cylinders will leak air if the rubber rings have dried out. It is a good idea to add a little oil to keep this from happening.
1. With the cylinder removed put an adjustable filter on the port opposite the shaft.
2. Using the filter lock the piston in the middle position.
3. Put some air tool oil in the other port. You don’t need to fill it up just enough so that it would leak if the cylinder wall is damaged or the piston rings are badly worn.
4. Let it sit for about an hour.
5. drain the excess oil out.
6. remove the adjustable filter and check for oil.
If you find oil than you need to take it apart and check the cylinder. You can get a rebuild kit for most cylinders if the rings are bad. If the cylinder wall is damaged you will need to examine why it was not throwing right and get a new cylinder.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 71
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From: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Re: Basic "True" Info On Air Suspension (upallnite)
How do you damage a cylinder? Is it caused by doing crazy ****, bouncing up and down while driving, incorrect pressures when riding low etc etc?
The kit I bought has been sitting idle for a few months the seals would be ok right?
When you say the cylinder should be lubricated every so often, does this mean you need to take them out and 'service' them every 6 months?
What is a regular maintanence program for a car with cylinders?
Cheers
The kit I bought has been sitting idle for a few months the seals would be ok right?
When you say the cylinder should be lubricated every so often, does this mean you need to take them out and 'service' them every 6 months?
What is a regular maintanence program for a car with cylinders?
Cheers
