building knockoff strut bar. help!
ok so i want to build by own neuspeed 4pt. strut tower brace. i dont know how to go about this. what kind of pipe should i use? what degree bends do i do? i am using a flux core welder. will it be srong enough to hold the bars under flex? anybody ever try this? help will be appreciated. thanks
julio
julio
could you just buy some straight solid round bar, stick it in a vice and bend as needed?
i'd like to build my own neuspeed strut sometime aswell. they are an excellent design but i've got to many other projects
i'd like to build my own neuspeed strut sometime aswell. they are an excellent design but i've got to many other projects
i can say for a fact that the Neuspeed bars are hollow tube-judging by their light weight,and that the mounting points are just the tube flattened out.
i don't know if you could get away with bending tubing that small in a regular manual bender without crushing it or not.
wish i could tell you what wall thickness it is,but i don't have any way to measure it here.
Chris
i don't know if you could get away with bending tubing that small in a regular manual bender without crushing it or not.
wish i could tell you what wall thickness it is,but i don't have any way to measure it here.
Chris
you could use thinner solid bars then. to keep the same strength and weight. and use a vice grip to bend it lol. seriously i think that'd be the easiest and cheapest way to do it. unless there is some big advantage of hollow/larger bars versus solid/smaller bars ?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can say for a fact that the Neuspeed bars are hollow tube-judging by their light weight,and that the mounting points are just the tube flattened out.
i don't know if you could get away with bending tubing that small in a regular manual bender without crushing it or not.
wish i could tell you what wall thickness it is,but i don't have any way to measure it here.
Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate it when people dont know what they are talking about, the ends are not flattened out tubing, it has plates welded to the tubing. Why would you want to build one you can buy one for around $90 it will be powdercoated and look good and will be strong. It would be hard to make one the same quality for less money.
i don't know if you could get away with bending tubing that small in a regular manual bender without crushing it or not.
wish i could tell you what wall thickness it is,but i don't have any way to measure it here.
Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate it when people dont know what they are talking about, the ends are not flattened out tubing, it has plates welded to the tubing. Why would you want to build one you can buy one for around $90 it will be powdercoated and look good and will be strong. It would be hard to make one the same quality for less money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18ccivics »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hate it when people dont know what they are talking about, the ends are not flattened out tubing, it has plates welded to the tubing. Why would you want to build one you can buy one for around $90 it will be powdercoated and look good and will be strong. It would be hard to make one the same quality for less money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're right.i said that based on my memory.i looked at it today and it is in fact plates welded to the end of the tube.
i agree with buying one instead of making one-i got both of mine off Ebay for under $50.
Chris
I hate it when people dont know what they are talking about, the ends are not flattened out tubing, it has plates welded to the tubing. Why would you want to build one you can buy one for around $90 it will be powdercoated and look good and will be strong. It would be hard to make one the same quality for less money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're right.i said that based on my memory.i looked at it today and it is in fact plates welded to the end of the tube.
i agree with buying one instead of making one-i got both of mine off Ebay for under $50.
Chris
thats not my point though, i know i can just go buy one but where is the fun to learning something new? i will end up buying one but for now, i want to do this, i can weld, bend not really cuz of angles and **** but i can make the same bar for less money, u cant beat 20 bux for 6ft of black pipe, 3/4 inch. i just wanted input, i guess ill go at it like a lost child, pics will be up when i finish her. thanks
julio
julio
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">build this instead
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wow..i never seen those. what are they?? for integra??
</TD></TR></TABLE>wow..i never seen those. what are they?? for integra??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wow..i never seen those. what are they?? for integra??</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like edelbrock to me. I heard that it is nice.
wow..i never seen those. what are they?? for integra??</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like edelbrock to me. I heard that it is nice.
solid bar is going to be way to heavy
i made a 3 point strut brace that bolts to the firewall also. i used .75" OD DOM tubing , .12" wall thickness. the thing weighs 7 pounds. it could probably withstand a nuclear blast but it's heavy as F***. plus alot of race organizations (like SCCA) only allow "horizontally mounted strut bars" so i am going to scrap the firewall idea. plus the top of the firewall is super weak and doubt there is really much benefit from tying the strut into it, unless you weld in some kind of backing plate, etc.
i'd probably go with some .083" wall tubing if i were you. stay under the 5 lb range. just make your bolt mounts first. (maybe some 3/16" flat steel stock should suffice)
bolt them to the strut mount bolts, then bend your tubing accordingly to meet up with the mounts. tack everything on the car and then fully weld off the car. that is usually the easiest way to get everything to fit correctly. hit it with some paint. it is just a freaking strut bar. you don't need it to get it powdercoated.
http://www.onlinemetals.com has some good pricing on DOM tubing. lots of sizes available. shipping isn't that expensive either.
i made a 3 point strut brace that bolts to the firewall also. i used .75" OD DOM tubing , .12" wall thickness. the thing weighs 7 pounds. it could probably withstand a nuclear blast but it's heavy as F***. plus alot of race organizations (like SCCA) only allow "horizontally mounted strut bars" so i am going to scrap the firewall idea. plus the top of the firewall is super weak and doubt there is really much benefit from tying the strut into it, unless you weld in some kind of backing plate, etc.
i'd probably go with some .083" wall tubing if i were you. stay under the 5 lb range. just make your bolt mounts first. (maybe some 3/16" flat steel stock should suffice)
bolt them to the strut mount bolts, then bend your tubing accordingly to meet up with the mounts. tack everything on the car and then fully weld off the car. that is usually the easiest way to get everything to fit correctly. hit it with some paint. it is just a freaking strut bar. you don't need it to get it powdercoated.
http://www.onlinemetals.com has some good pricing on DOM tubing. lots of sizes available. shipping isn't that expensive either.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwnthehatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah it's an edelbrock. I would like to mention that it will not fit an itr swapped eg. The bar hits the throttle body. I found out the hard way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think it will if you have an str or g-sport throttle body (the map sensor is moved to the bottom) I sit one on my eg to see if it would fit it has a b18c with skunk 2 manifold. It was close but it didnt hit.
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