LCA install tips...needed!
I bought new lcas when the old bolt was rusted in and I didn't want to deal with it, I bought some new bolts from Honda (use OEM whenever possible, no Home Depot special on the bolt retaining my rear shock) and bring a hammer, things are a bit tight. Also hitting everything with penetrating oil the day before you start helps alot.
The shock bolts was a breeze to take out/put back in.
You should be worried about the bolt closet to the wheel. Forgot it was called. You might need an air gun to take out if its on so tight.
After you take out your old lca and put the new one in position. Put in the bolt closest to the wheel first!! It will make everything alot easier.
You should be worried about the bolt closet to the wheel. Forgot it was called. You might need an air gun to take out if its on so tight.
After you take out your old lca and put the new one in position. Put in the bolt closest to the wheel first!! It will make everything alot easier.
For my eg i found it easier to put the strut bolt in first b/c that gives you a little movement with the lca as long as the strut top nuts arent threaded all the way down, just a few threads.
then do the bolt closed to the tire and then the subframe by either using a jack under the shock or a jack stand etc.
another tip is before any work on anything like rusted bolts etc.... soak the bolts in PB blaster for about a week before the work is done. Every night for about a week before i did all my suspension mods, i used 1 can a night and soaked all the bolts. when it came time to do the work, i didnt need any air tools and barely broke a sweat.
and my last tip for ya..... get a case of beer... comes in handy trust me
then do the bolt closed to the tire and then the subframe by either using a jack under the shock or a jack stand etc.
another tip is before any work on anything like rusted bolts etc.... soak the bolts in PB blaster for about a week before the work is done. Every night for about a week before i did all my suspension mods, i used 1 can a night and soaked all the bolts. when it came time to do the work, i didnt need any air tools and barely broke a sweat.
and my last tip for ya..... get a case of beer... comes in handy trust me
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it snapped off, im gettin a new trail arm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Muh? Drill it out maybe? That welded-on nut on the opposite side can just be replaced with a few big washers and a non-welded nut without any issue. Not OEM, but it works.
Also, for reassembly, as someone suggested, and this can't be stressed enough:
USE ANTI-SEIZE
Muh? Drill it out maybe? That welded-on nut on the opposite side can just be replaced with a few big washers and a non-welded nut without any issue. Not OEM, but it works.
Also, for reassembly, as someone suggested, and this can't be stressed enough:
USE ANTI-SEIZE
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