Hey guys, I just recieved my semi built head that I bought not too long ago. Supposedly here are the specs on it:

Upgraded valvesprings/retainers
Port/Polish on the head and intake manifold
Milled .020

I posted these pictures on a different website and they thought I had a B18C head, but I found PR3 markings on both the intake manifold and on the head (PR3-2 on the head). Anyways I'm posting this to see what you guys think of the quality of the port/polish job on the head and if you think I got what I ordered.




Intake Side




Exhuast side




Just give me your honest opinion on the head, and let me know if you see anything out of place or odd.

 

The combustion chambers appear to be P72 combustion chambers, but from the top view it looks like an early B16 ehad. The headwork doesn't look bad, but you may want to have it flow benched just to be sure. Overall the head looks pretty run down.

 

Does it look like it even has any head work? Didn't appear so to me. Excuse my ignorance, but what is P72? Is that like a GSR or something?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N1ghtM0nkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but what is P72? Is that like a GSR or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. And there is some p/p because the casting lines are gone from the intake and exhaust ports.

 

how much did u paid for the head, hope u dont mind answering that.

 

$300 Down payment, supposed to pay $865 total with a new headgasket and intake manifold gasket. It came with GSR cams and an intake manifold (also P/P). I found a JG stamp/mark/whatever near the exhaust ports that strongly resembles the http://www.jgenginedynamics.com logo.




The intake ports don't look bad but the exhaust ports are dirty as ****.



Here's an exhaust port



And possibly a better picture of a combustion chamber



Anyways this is what concerns me now - should I take this head to a mechanic or a machine shop and see if they can clean it up via bead blasting or hot tanking, and if it is milled .020 how would I go about clay checking the valve clearance - and is it nescessary. Or should I send it back and try to get a full refund, or keep it and try to work out a better price...what do you guys think would be a fair price?

I was hoping to get started on installing this today but it dosn't look like that's going to happen.

 

Someone has done some work to at least the intake side, I can tell you that much. It looks like good work also from the pics, but its hard to tell.. Here is the problem. The exhaust side looks like complete ***. I would have that head completely disassembled and cleaned. My guess is it will need new stem seals (not too expensive) and most likley a valvejob ($200ish depending on where you go). So its up to you. The most important part of any headwork is the valvejob as it affects flow the most. By the looks of the head in those pics, I wouldn't expect the valvejob to be worth a damn. But, you honestly won't know until its disassembled. You would at least need that crap tore down and inspected by someone who knew what they were doing. That head is most likley going to cost you ~$250 to bring back.

As far as checking valve clearances, that has to be done with the head on the car. If you aren't planning on running some huge cams, you should be ok. But that is a lot to remove off that head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Someone has done some work to at least the intake side, I can tell you that much. It looks like good work also from the pics, but its hard to tell.. Here is the problem. The exhaust side looks like complete ***. I would have that head completely disassembled and cleaned. My guess is it will need new stem seals (not too expensive) and most likley a valvejob ($200ish depending on where you go). So its up to you. The most important part of any headwork is the valvejob as it affects flow the most. By the looks of the head in those pics, I wouldn't expect the valvejob to be worth a damn. But, you honestly won't know until its disassembled. You would at least need that crap tore down and inspected by someone who knew what they were doing. That head is most likley going to cost you ~$250 to bring back.

As far as checking valve clearances, that has to be done with the head on the car. If you aren't planning on running some huge cams, you should be ok. But that is a lot to remove off that head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Just got back from the local machine shop, and they told me $160 will get it completely cleaned, the valves ground, checked for any structural damage, and basically completely torn down and all that good stuff. I'll consider that but I don't think $865 is very reasonable anymore.

 

good luck gettin ur money back bro.

 

The combustion chambers were welded in that head, the cam cap plates are from a 1st gen b16..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The combustion chambers were welded in that head, the cam cap plates are from a 1st gen b16..</TD></TR></TABLE>


good call


looks like a good head to me clean it up and run it

 

i was bout to say the same. in that case 800 is a good deal as long as theres nothing "wrong" with the cast.

i like the quench

 

while its apart replace the LMAs with ITR ones, just for precaution

 

head doesnt look too bad, except it needs some cleaning .. guides look like they were cut for more flow, looks like head was prepped for ls/vtec, dowel pins opened and oil port at bottom plugged. do not gride valve seats, vaccum test it first to ensure valves are sealed ... chances are it may have valve angle job
missing the cam cap bolts ? thats about $100 buks from the dealer, make sure you get the bolts, or steel bolts anyway (the 12mm ones); 10mm ones are cheap

greg

 

I'm going to use all the hardware from my head, I'll have them run all the tests on it while they have it for cleaning.

 

your head should b ok. just replace your valve guides $ valve stem

 

that's one of javier's (JG Engine Dynamics)second gen heads. looks like it's one of his "all motor" port jobs judging by how much the valve guides are trimmed.

retail on those heads new was around 1250 if i remember correctly. plus core charge and 3-6 month turn around time.

get rid of those retainers tho, they look like his aluminum ones. those are notorious for fatiguing and breaking. happened to me on my $1800 JG LS head. needless to say, i wasn't too happy.

 

Thats not the pro-series gen 2 head. On the gen 2 the ports are alot bigger and he cut more on the upper part on top of the valve guides. Go to the JG website to see the difference. There's no way of telling if those are aluminium or titanium retainers from the pics.

If you ever decide to dissemble and clean the complete head and do another valve + seating job on it... I would recommend sending it back to Javier to get it done.

 

you can get thoose heads for 125 bucks.. jesus.. that hing is beat

 

How could I tell if they are aluminum or titanium?

 

Bump for unanswered questions...

Can I use a stock headgasket if the head is milled .020? It seems safe to me because I just read inthe PCT compression ratio thread that the most you can mill off of a head is .050 and there are people in there talking about having a head milled .030 with PCT pistons and a stock headgasket.

Call me crazy but .020 dosn't seem that wild?

So basically my question is can I run a stock headgasket with this head (milled .020) or do I need to get a thicker one. And also if I wanted to could I use PCT or ITR pistons( to lower comp a little...maybe for a turbo) could I do that without a thicker headgasket?

 

honestly i beleive a hg is the least of your worrys right now. get it fixed or get a different one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N1ghtM0nkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for unanswered questions...

Can I use a stock headgasket if the head is milled .020? It seems safe to me because I just read inthe PCT compression ratio thread that the most you can mill off of a head is .050 and there are people in there talking about having a head milled .030 with PCT pistons and a stock headgasket.

Call me crazy but .020 dosn't seem that wild?

So basically my question is can I run a stock headgasket with this head (milled .020) or do I need to get a thicker one. And also if I wanted to could I use PCT or ITR pistons( to lower comp a little...maybe for a turbo) could I do that without a thicker headgasket? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, you can use the stock headgasket, thats not the issue. I am not sure what engine you plan to put this on, but I wouldn't personally have used CTR pistons. Thats neither here nor there at this point though. Make SURE you clay the motor to check for proper clearances. CTR pistons already suck enough as is on a "stock" head/block combo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N1ghtM0nkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for unanswered questions...

Can I use a stock headgasket if the head is milled .020? It seems safe to me because I just read inthe PCT compression ratio thread that the most you can mill off of a head is .050 and there are people in there talking about having a head milled .030 with PCT pistons and a stock headgasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a b18c1 block and head that was milled .030" and still rocked a Mugen thin two layer headgasket.

I would use CTR pistons and jus clay the motor and make sure, but your compression is gonna be through da roof..




Modified by B18BlackEK at 1:32 PM 6/3/2005