my friend has a 96 honda accordand we were replacing the rotors. we took off the calipers and unbolted four bolts on the front and back of the rotor. now i see no more bolts to undo but i will not budge.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263586

Just run through a couple of pages in the Accord forum homey, usually something turns up, i usually just read through about 5 pages then post if i dont find anything remotely close!

Good luck.

 

here is what you do.........first off put back the 4 bolts on the front just snug them up
remove the axle nut, remove the cotter pin and remove castle nut at lower ball joint you need to separate control arm from knuckle, remove 2 17 mm caliper mounting bolts swing caliper to the side, once control arm is separated take axle out of tranny and out of car it will slide throught the fork ,it makes job easier with axle out of the way , once axle is out if you look at back side where axle goes into splines there are 4 bolts either 12mm or 10mm 12 points make sure you use a good socket not to strip the heads ,,now temporarily put the knuckle back into the lower control arm and finger tight nut back on ,the reason you do that is to keep it more stationary for what comes next ,,get a hammer and hit the rotor it will come out ,, it comes out as an assembly with hub , once out of car take the 4 14mm bolts that secure rotor to hub the ones on the front again use a good 6 point socket these bolt heads strip real easy , once all 4 bolts are out separate rotor from hub...
put new rotor ,,,,,there piece of cake ;-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is what you do.........first off put back the 4 bolts on the front just snug them up
remove the axle nut, remove the cotter pin and remove castle nut at lower ball joint you need to separate control arm from knuckle, remove 2 17 mm caliper mounting bolts swing caliper to the side, once control arm is separated take axle out of tranny and out of car it will slide throught the fork ,it makes job easier with axle out of the way , once axle is out if you look at back side where axle goes into splines there are 4 bolts either 12mm or 10mm 12 points make sure you use a good socket not to strip the heads ,,now temporarily put the knuckle back into the lower control arm and finger tight nut back on ,the reason you do that is to keep it more stationary for what comes next ,,get a hammer and hit the rotor it will come out ,, it comes out as an assembly with hub , once out of car take the 4 14mm bolts that secure rotor to hub the ones on the front again use a good 6 point socket these bolt heads strip real easy , once all 4 bolts are out separate rotor from hub...
put new rotor ,,,,,there piece of cake ;-) </TD></TR></TABLE>

you're a monster. I saved this whole explanation to my little notepad tech folder i have on my computer. I need to do this myself, I have the rotors laying around.

 

ehy confu if u need help give a holler

 

We acctually just got done changing out the rotars on my 97. Biggest pain in the *** Ever.

On the right side the lower ball joint wouldnt budge so here we are: two hammers, Pickle Fork, Jack (putting pressure on the bottom of the ball joint bolt) and a torch. Tore the **** out of the boot but that M/f finnally gave. Glad its a process you dont have to do very often.


Dont get me started on what it took to get the damn rotar off the arm.

 

does the wheel bearing come off with the hub? if it does hes gonna need new bearings right? we cant get the rotor to come off for the life of us so i guess were gonna take the whole hub assembly and get it pressed out cuz his rotors have dents in them from the hammer so he has to have new rotors put on

 

Congratulations:
You, myself, and everyone who owns a 5th generation Accord has been blessed with the corporate equivilent of an Aprils Fools joke.
The 5th gens rotors are pressed to the front wheels hub bearing and installed as an assembly. It requires a hydralic press to both break apart and reassemble (not for the shade tree mechanic).
I believe Honda was trying to eliminate "brake shudder" (judder as the English (Sterling Motor car Company) call it)" by modifying how the rotors were attached.
As with most corporate ideas that ultimately didn't work out; the engineer involved with this fiasco was probably promoted.
Go figure

P.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkDragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the wheel bearing come off with the hub? if it does hes gonna need new bearings right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your lucky and the bearing isn't rusted into the knuckle you can remove the bearing/hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle as one piece, then from there just remove the rotor and put the new one on and reattach the assembly to the knuckle with the four bolts on the back of the knuckle. But if you like most people, when you "pound" out the hub/rotor the bearing is going to stay in the knuckle which means your going to remove the inner race of the bearing with the hub and the rest of the bearing will stay with the knuckle. That means the inside of the bearing is now exposed. It is recommended that you replace the bearing if this happens. I've heard of people not replacing it and just putting the hub back on and some have repacked the bearing before inserting the hub. Whether or not seperating the bearing and then putting it back together instead of replacing has worked without problem or if the bearing did end up failing I don't know. I just know it is recommended but some people haven't done so.

Because this was such a PITA the first time I did it, I decided to convert to rotor-over-hub the next time I did my rotors but I never got the chance to do that conversion.